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Refurbish D2 track frames and pivot shaft

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2 years 11 months ago - 2 years 11 months ago #233598 by neil
I pulled the track frames off my 5U today with a help of a friend - took about 2 1/2 hours to remove the 2S blade and blade mounts, back the sprockets up on 6" blocks, jack the front of the tractor up about 12", loosen off the rails, remove the master pins (split with plugs), unravel the tracks, remove the track frames, and remove the pivot shaft. A lot easier when all of that stuff has been removed previously and just comes apart, and especially with help from Mark who used his front end loader to take the weight of the track frames and backed out while I wiggled - they slipped right off in contrast to when I first removed them which took a day. The pivot shaft will go into the shop to be built back up to spec, new bushings in the track frames, inspect the rollers and (probably) replace them with D3 rollers, and fit the new solid large idlers I got from d2gary's machine. I'll take the new rails down there too and have them press the extra links on to make them up to 32 links 







 

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY
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Last edit: 2 years 11 months ago by neil.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Deebo

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2 years 11 months ago #233599 by Busso20
Hi Neil, Do you need to change to 32 link for the larger front idler to fit? Is the D3 roller a straight fit or redrill mount holes?
Thank you
Jamie

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2 years 11 months ago #233613 by neil
Hi Busso20, it actually came as a 32 link which is what it currently has, due to the longer track frames. These were a result with the change to a two-piece clutch shaft introduced at s/n 5U13273 that elongated the clutch compartment part of the transmission case. I bought parts for six total links in case I need to go to 33 links to accommodate the larger idler. To fit D3 bottom rollers, the mounting surface needs to be 1" lower, which can be done by welding a 1" strap along the bottom of the track frame. This then makes it convenient to drill new roller attachment holes because the D3 rollers have differently spaced mounting holes. I got this information from John Parks' General Gear website where he reprints information from a fellow that made this change. For the carrier rollers, I'll probably build a new stand because the current ones are quite wasted from rust, plus the mount for the roller requires a split clamp arrangement. The current carrier roller stand has an axle integral with the stand whereas the D3 roller's axle is a part of the roller assembly, which is how modern carriers are arranged. Are you thinking of updating your machine?

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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2 years 11 months ago #233614 by Busso20
Hi Neil, I was thinking of options mostly, my 3j has been worked a lot (dozer blade fitted) for future rebuild, chains and grousers well worn out now, this one has no clutch coupling extension so its a short track frame machine, easy to attach a strap and re drill for rollers, should be easier to get the rollers as well.
Cheers
Jamie

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2 years 11 months ago #233636 by edb
Hi Neil,
here is what I have saved from here in the past for converting a D2 to D3 rollers.
Hope it helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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2 years 11 months ago #233638 by Busso20
Thats a good piece of steel to beef up the track frame, thank you EDB

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2 years 11 months ago #233639 by edb
Hi Busso20,
the adapter/spacer bar is to make up for the smaller diameter of said D3 rollers and not expressly for beefing up the track frame as such but point taken.
Regards,
Eddie B.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Busso20

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2 years 11 months ago #233650 by d2gary
Hi Neil, I'm pretty sure you're going to need 33 links for the later d2 with the clutch coupling and the big idler. I personally wouldn't give up on the d2 bottom rollers, the bushings are fairly easy to replicate and the wear surfaces are no problem to build up. The seals in your later model are just lip seals not the bellows type and are readily available. If you go with the d2 stuff I think I have 2 upper roller stands that would need rebuilt but are a good start.
Looking forward to seeing what you do
The following user(s) said Thank You: edb, Cbland98

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2 years 11 months ago #233658 by neil
Thanks team! Eddie, that's some more detail on the fitment that I didn't have, namely moving the rear roller forward an inch or so. Busso, the rollers are very easy to get - I bought mine from ebay for about 100 each brand new. Scott, I'm definitely not going to throw the old rollers out, as I'm going to refurbish them for the 3J and that will give me a spare set of "new" rollers on the shelf. Mine are very flogged out though, definitely not almost new like Toby's are : ) The carriers are basically smashed apart externally and internally. I already have the D3 rollers so those are going on the 5U. I was reminded on Sat how easy those plug-type master pins are to remove/install. Quick removal of the plugs with the slide puller, tap the pins through with the pre-made keep-your-hands-out-of-range master pin driver, and they're apart. They would have to rival alligators for ease of removal I'd say.

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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2 years 11 months ago #233659 by neil
I did have a question regarding the purpose of that semi-circular strap that goes over the front end of the recoil spring? Only thing I can think of is as a mount for the front end of a cover. It doesn't need to "hold the spring down" because the spring is bolted to the idler assembly (unless it is for that purpose?)

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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