Starting a new thread RE this old girl. 1946 D2 5J i picked up for $1500. I have quite a learning curve as i've never owned a D2 before, although the basic principals seem to apply.

As i understand it, nothing substantiated yet, the diesel isn't running due to fuel delivery issues. The previous owner replaced the fuel filters, and eventually the fuel transfer pump with a nos unit. When R&R'ing the fuel pump, he noticed the worm drive gear on the accessory shaft had been damaged for whatever reason. I'm guessing a failed fuel pump if this is indeed the problem. I'll remove the fuel pump to inspect the accessory shaft as well as fuel pump and go from there.

I will take Mike's advise and dump all fluids, clean and refresh. Nice to have clean oil, filters, and etc, plus a documented baseline, before doing much else. 
Question, what is the recommended oil for the diesel? I'm guessing non-synthetic 10-30 (in a hot/cold area). Same with the pony.

In the meantime, i've been binging on the parts manual and viewing Squatch videos. Holy mackerel! That guy knows his sh&t!! Super valuable info in the tech library too, what a resource!!

I'll touch base once i get something to update with.

Thanks all!
-Todd

i personally use delo gold 15w40 and im in the sub tropics. and yes i use it in both the main and the pony.

what i did was i contacted my chosen oil companies tech advice service for a recommendation most of this info is also available on their web sites you simply search by make and model. note these are listed as crawler or track type tractors.

the transmission and final drives really only need to be drained to check for water and metal shavings and if strained with a fine mesh funnel could be reused. till you get the machine working and after it does a couple hrs work then change it. if its a nice golden honey colour, clean and flows nicely its fine.

to answer your oil question we need to know your temperature range. but i would bet 15 w 40 will work in the big engine and 30 weight in the pony. be advised that the detergent oil in the pony will clean it up and hold the sediment so change it often.

Temp range is 0 - 115 (winter/summer). Won't be used in the winter, and will be stabled in the barn year round. I've always used Delo 15-40 in the diesel trucks with no problems, figured that would be a good choice unless someone has a better suggestion.

Coolant is a different story, i don't know what materials are used in those engines. I've seen where a lot of folks use the standard 50/50 auto anti-freeze mix, but i know this isn't good for more modern diesel engines. I've always used Cat purple in my trucks with no issues. Thoughts?

How often should the fuel tower be removed, cleaned and resealed? I watched a good video the other night and it looks like this needs some good attention occasionally and would be a good maint. item to take care of initially.

Fuel additives? I use Stanadyne in the trucks. Seems to solve injector issues and has extended the lives of older injection pumps. Again, this is a material thing, and considering the old fuels were superior in some aspects (lubrication)...

Thanks for your insight!

my temp range is close to yours. in my opinion---15w40 big engine 30w in the pony and 30w in the injection pump. change the oil in the pump and pony often. fuel tower shouldn't need much attention after the initial cleaning if you use clean fuel.

The fuel additives seems a hot topic on a number of old tractor sites. It seem two stroke oil and ATF are not going to hurt anything in the older pumps, but a big no for newer things. So I would say use what ever you use in your other engines to make it simple.

When every it was California started the remove the sulfur from fuel campaign, I asked my supplier and was told (wink wink) we still have old fuel. They where getting fuel from a smaller refiner that payed a in leu tax rather than upgrade. So I did not get in the habit of using additives. But I changed suppliers and I am sure that refinery has been upgraded or destroyed in the last 25 years. I still have not had trouble with a Cat fuel pump, but now the trouble will be rust and sticky plungers from hardly any use rather than wear.

Hi Team,
be aware there was early day change to the diesel fuel transfer pump drive ratio in that the Accessory drive shaft and therefore its integral worm gear, and the transfer pump driven gear were changed to give more reliable fuel pressures to early machines by increasing the speed of the transfer pump.
The later transfer pump driven gear has a machined ring on one side face to tell us that it is the later ratio gear--BE AWARE that if the accessory drive shaft or the transfer pump driven gear are mixed then the driven gear teeth and the shaft worm will be damaged--I would suspect if the early driven gear were to be fitted to a late shaft the end result may be a bent transfer pump driven shaft caused by forcing the transfer pump into place and/or chewed up teeth.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Very interesting..
Do you know what the matching part numbers are for each ratio?
How would one know what ratio the accessory shaft gear is?

Cheers!

Hi Neil,
just putting it out there that there was a change to gearing however it may have been done, the end net result is that the gears cannot be mixed.
 (EDIT maybe they added more starts to the worm gear--more teeth) and altered the tooth profile to its mating driven gear--the upshot is that the later driven gears have the machined line on one side face to differentiate the two ratio gears--I have looked in my incomplete files and have not found any literature to this effect but was told about it way back when, by senior mechanics, that the ratio changed and the line appeared--one would assume the accessory shaft part numbers would have to change also--if not, then mangled gears would ensue.

I also believe that to address more low pressure issues the output volume of the pumps was increased by fitting new deeper centre bodies and wider gears.
I shall keep looking for data on this.
Cheers,
Eddie B.