I trying to get my radiator off my D4 5t. I have the Choate hyd oil pump off but the couplings between are not coming apart.
There are two double chain coupling, one on each side the radiator. I can't seperate the chain on the coupling as the spacing is to tight thus I can't remove the radiator from the tractor to work off the brench. I don't see any set screws.
Question is, where should the seperation of part be? It looks like the splined shaft should come off the engine side coupler but I haven't figured how.

Hey OCB-
I just put my D45T w/LPC back together last week. On mine there is just a male/male PTO spline shaft free-floating between the two couplers. The keyed part in your first pic is set-screwed to the pump input shaft, and came off with the pump.

Unless someone has bubba'd yours, I'll bet that slpine shaft has just rusted to the couplers, and a little heat and/or persuation will pop it out.

On a related note, if you need to replace the almost obsolete 'single-double' coupler chain the Link-Belt part number is ARC 5016. You will need to cut a link out.
Modern double roller chain will not fit between the pump and radiator.

Good Luck
CS

I am in the process of putting mine back together this week. I belive mine is just like Carl described it. I included a picture (the best one I had) before taking anything apart. It appears that I have plenty of wiggle room for a double roller chain. I ordered one form McMaster Carr. I could not find anything like what was in there to start with. I agree it is wider than that "single - double" roller chain. But I still think it will work. Is mine like what yours is Carl? Does the collar rub on the backside of the bottom radiator housing? Maybe I can turn the collar back in the lathe about .250" if this is the problem.
I think that the linkage on OCB's dozer is bubba-d. The splined shaft should just go thru the radiator and into the pump. It seems to be a different setup.
It has to come apart some other way. You could not get the master link in if it did not come apart. I suppose you could take a cutoff wheel on a dremel and cut the chain apart just to get the job done. I would suggest replacing it anyway since you have it this far apart. These short pieces of chain are pretty inexpensive.


i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/dratt_...r/DOUBLEROWCHAIN.jpg

hey dratt-
A double roller will fit between the engine and the radiator, mine has one there too.
But if your pump looks like this:



A double roller will NOT fit between the radiator and the pump. The fact that you have a lathe will probably change that tho, a little off the same keyed part mentioned in my last post might make it go...

Something else I remembered, I bought a new woodruff key but had to grind about a quarter inch off of the radius to make it fit in the slot.

BTW i have like 6 feet of new double roller chain if anyone needs it...

CS

I haven't much head way as I think Bubba visited this tractor.
At the present time I have not been able to seperate the two chain couplers. My attempt to remove the chain from the double chain has failed in that the pins are rusted in the chain, I throught I had the removal link free and kept working it back and forth and finally the complete link seperated. the pins are frozen in the chain.
Now I'm trying to fight one bolt that won't come loose on the pulley/vibration damper to crankshaft. If that don't come apart I think the heat wrench will apply and I will need some of CS's chain.
Yes CS, my pump looks like yours

I got the fourth bolt loose on the adapter for the chain coupling that attaches to the pulley/vibration damper. The pulley/vibration damper is a separate nut directly to the crankshaft.
I still have to get the chain coupling apart but I did find my mis-fortune to be the nut came off the fan.
Thanks and More later. Clay

CS, I see what you mean. I belive I have the same pump as you.
The coupling chain that would give me a problem is not the one on the back side of the radiator. It is the one on the front. There is another coupling chain between the hydro pump and the front of the radiator. There is very little clearance between these two.
Thanks for point this out.

I have the same setup, there is a set screw on the front chain coupler. I got my off. I need a copy of a manual for the pump, [Laplant choate] Mine leaks oil around the seal, when I shut her down I can't find a seal to fit it. Can anyone help me? thanks fred

Attached, a very poor copy of the LP pump....good luck finding parts:)

Fred-
It took me quite a while to figure it all out, mine leaked there too. The pump shaft has what they call a 'mechanical seal', there is a brass bush pressed into the housing, and a steel ring that runs on it, loaded by a spring. This is the rotational seal. There is a rubber (neoprene?) seal that fits into the steel ring, this seals the shaft to the ring, but do not rotate relative to each other. So as far as the input shaft, you have two potential sources for a leak- between the steel ring and the brass bushing, and between the rubber seal and the shaft. If the metal surfaces are shot, the only option is to have a machinist make new, altho I may have some other options (PM me).
If the rubber is bad (like mine, hardened and crumbled from age/heat) then you are in luck, it takes a standard 'poly seal', like used in hydraulic cylinders, and available any place the deals with such things.

I got mine at A.C. DePuydt in Commerce, CA
www.acdepuydt.com/
800 647-3257

The number I have is: 2500 1187 NC

BTW anyone with hydraulic ram issues, they claim-
Since 1952, A.C. DePuydt, Inc. has been distributing quality hydraulic seals,
pneumatic seals and O-rings at the lowest prices in the industry.
We have one of the largest inventories of hydraulic and pneumatic seals in the United States.



Good Luck
CS