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Greenfield? for D4 7U

Greenfield? for D4 7U

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Elton
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Hi folks.  I am finishing up the electrical portion of my D4 and have a question, maybe opinion or fact I don't know.  When I got my tractor, it had a piece of greenfield (flexible electrical conduit) between the battery box and the firewall/dash.  Is this correct?  How should the wire be routed?  It kind of wants to lie on the floorboard but that is close to the left brake and perhaps a high wear area where it could get stepped on.  If greenfield is used, is it on top of the fender or attached to the inside of the fender?  Pictures would be nice.  Thank you!  Elton


 
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Fri, Apr 23, 2021 11:00 PM
neil
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According to the picture in my 5U parts catalog (and I'd think the 7U would be similar), the heavy cables from the battery box (pony start) run across the fender to the dash and then in. The lighting cables on the other side also run along the fender and it looks like they're just regular cable, not inside conduit, but it doesn't really say. The serviceman's reference might have some more info, or anyone on here that has an original wired tractor. I used 2/0 battery cables on mine and they're so stiff that they route from the battery box to the dash without any additional support
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Fri, Apr 23, 2021 11:28 PM
Elton
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Reply to neil:
According to the picture in my 5U parts catalog (and I'd think the 7U would be similar), the heavy cables from the battery box (pony start) run across the fender to the dash and then in. The lighting cables on the other side also run along the fender and it looks like they're just regular cable, not inside conduit, but it doesn't really say. The serviceman's reference might have some more info, or anyone on here that has an original wired tractor. I used 2/0 battery cables on mine and they're so stiff that they route from the battery box to the dash without any additional support
I used 2/0 welding cable, so it is very flexible. On yours, is the cable attached to the fender? Mine doesn't show any sign of attachment holes. I was considering a piece of 3/4 greenfield screwed onto the inside vertical edge of the fender, away from the top and the floor, but I don't want to do something stupid looking either. I guess I would like to do it the way CAT would have if they put together my set up with both pony and electric starting. Elton
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Sat, Apr 24, 2021 12:20 AM
neil
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Reply to Elton:
I used 2/0 welding cable, so it is very flexible. On yours, is the cable attached to the fender? Mine doesn't show any sign of attachment holes. I was considering a piece of 3/4 greenfield screwed onto the inside vertical edge of the fender, away from the top and the floor, but I don't want to do something stupid looking either. I guess I would like to do it the way CAT would have if they put together my set up with both pony and electric starting. Elton
Mine's not attached because it's regular wire as opposed to welding wire so is stiff, but if it suits you, just add a clamp. There's so little room between my battery box and the hydraulic pipes to the left side cylinder that I'm never going to step in there (unless I'm trying to bail out after pushing it a little too far..... ; )
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Sat, Apr 24, 2021 3:05 AM
willwingo
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The information your looking for is in the "attachments" section of Form 32523 on page 161 (copy attached below). The conduit is part #6B3675. Clips are part # 5B, held in place with nuts.

The attached picture is how it is mounted of my 7U. Hope this helps.

[attachment=62938]001.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=62939]d4 electric starter group.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Attachment
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Sat, Apr 24, 2021 3:33 AM
Elton
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Reply to willwingo:
The information your looking for is in the "attachments" section of Form 32523 on page 161 (copy attached below). The conduit is part #6B3675. Clips are part # 5B, held in place with nuts.

The attached picture is how it is mounted of my 7U. Hope this helps.

[attachment=62938]001.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=62939]d4 electric starter group.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Attachment
Thank you Neil and Phildirt. I appreciate your help so much. Elton
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Sun, Apr 25, 2021 1:22 AM
trainzkid88
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Reply to Elton:
Thank you Neil and Phildirt. I appreciate your help so much. Elton
rubber/vynil type flexible conduit would be the ideal and if you cant get yellow and don't like black paint it with a plastics primer and then a light coat of cat yellow.
remember it doesn't have to be exactly spot on original it just has to work properly and be in the spirit of what it was. the only opinion that truly matters when it comes to how your machine looks is your own!

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Sun, Apr 25, 2021 2:49 PM
Elton
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Reply to trainzkid88:
rubber/vynil type flexible conduit would be the ideal and if you cant get yellow and don't like black paint it with a plastics primer and then a light coat of cat yellow.
remember it doesn't have to be exactly spot on original it just has to work properly and be in the spirit of what it was. the only opinion that truly matters when it comes to how your machine looks is your own!
Thank you all for your ideas and opinions. The tractor wiring is complete and it runs! Sunday afternoon after adjusting the main clutch brake so I could get it in gear, I took a little cruse around my place. Lots of slobber, but I hope to put it under a load soon and stop that nonsense. Otherwise it ran well! I think my wife was as tickled as I was. I haven't yet put the hydraulics or blade back on since I wanted to run it a bit and make sure it was ok before doing all that. I will unfortunately have to remove the radiator to install the front PTO drive for the hydraulic. But we are much closer than 1.5 years ago when it came to live with me. Elton
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Tue, Apr 27, 2021 3:18 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to Elton:
Thank you all for your ideas and opinions. The tractor wiring is complete and it runs! Sunday afternoon after adjusting the main clutch brake so I could get it in gear, I took a little cruse around my place. Lots of slobber, but I hope to put it under a load soon and stop that nonsense. Otherwise it ran well! I think my wife was as tickled as I was. I haven't yet put the hydraulics or blade back on since I wanted to run it a bit and make sure it was ok before doing all that. I will unfortunately have to remove the radiator to install the front PTO drive for the hydraulic. But we are much closer than 1.5 years ago when it came to live with me. Elton
Well done, you will have a lot of fun with that tractor
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Tue, Apr 27, 2021 3:21 AM
neil
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Well done, you will have a lot of fun with that tractor
Great job Elton! Very satisfying when you do a start-up : ) Of course, you've spilled the beans so now we're demanding a video! : ) For the front hydraulic control drive, I think I managed to install the flange and the shaft without having to remove the radiator but I could be wrong. I do know the first time I did it, the radiator was off being fixed, but I did another installation because I had to change something on the shaft and I might not have removed the radiator - memory is failing me. Anyhoo, it's not a big deal to remove the radiator on the U-series if you have a chainfall or one of those cheap HF engine hoists like I have
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Tue, Apr 27, 2021 7:14 PM
Elton
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Reply to neil:
Great job Elton! Very satisfying when you do a start-up : ) Of course, you've spilled the beans so now we're demanding a video! : ) For the front hydraulic control drive, I think I managed to install the flange and the shaft without having to remove the radiator but I could be wrong. I do know the first time I did it, the radiator was off being fixed, but I did another installation because I had to change something on the shaft and I might not have removed the radiator - memory is failing me. Anyhoo, it's not a big deal to remove the radiator on the U-series if you have a chainfall or one of those cheap HF engine hoists like I have
I'll work on the video! Thank you for your uplifting comments! Elton
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Wed, Apr 28, 2021 12:56 AM
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