Trunion ball
 

Hi Team,
if you are talking about the disc welded to the end of the trunion ball--seen that many times as it helps keep the very worn side arm from slipping off the very worn trunion ball as there is no longer any positive retention.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

edb that makes sense. if the arm came free it would do allsorts of damage.

what i was reffering to was if you look carefully inbetween the inner groove and the attchment point to the side frame it looks like another weld is there hence my theory it may have been rplaced or repaired at some stage as my machine doesnt have that.

am i correct in assuming what dan has posted a pic of would be mounted by cutting the old ball off gouging the weld out and then remove the plug, insert new ball plug and weld it on filling that slight concave radius with weld

Dan, I have the book on right and the one for the transmission if I recall (they are at the property so I can't confirm what the second physical copy is) ... I also got the OM but I don't have the parts manual yet.

Status update:
We added some material to the right trunnion today, left one was good and looks like it was previously done and just needed new bolts.
Ran the dozer for an hour and smoke was coming out of the, un covered, drive clutches :/
We changed most all CO points, and all TO points less the clutch / trans ... only place I found water was the rear wench which had a good 5 gallons total of fluid ... from what I can tell it needs only 2 gallons of oil till it hits the site plug.

The greenish fluid previously pictured is still coming out of the right side of the tractor ... I suspect there is fluid of some sort in the trans or flywheel? (didn't see any looking in the bungs there or on the sticks) We didn't change those as they seemed full and "good" still ... very odd. We let it sit for 15 minutes and ran it some more ... still smoking.

Right rear track roller bearing is leaking grease ... when I was greasing it I stopped at 4 pumps as I didn't feel resistance like I did the opposite side and other bearing points. I couldn't find the flywheel clutch bearing grease point but most all other points are now greased.

My friend, operator, ran the machine half the day and I ran it about an hour ... hard to finesse the shifting lever to get it to easily go from forward to reverse ... we are fighting it most of the time ...

Other than that it ran great and pushed strong ...

I crawled under the machine looking for the drain for the flywheel clutch housing since I know it is suppose to be run dry ... can't find it.
I see the clutch drains and some odd cork feeling plug near the end of the skid plate towards the rear but no flywheel clutch ...

Plug-thing I found here bottom right

And here top center ... likely the linkage pivot looking at again with the OM

What I think is the flywheel clutch compartment

Also in the OM I don't see a label for the steering clutch drain ... are these on the side of the machine? This machine has a wench on the back so could it be the two plates on the back behind the wench and if so how do you drain them.

Have not looked on you model but D6 of the same time the steering compartment plugs are 3/4 or 1 inch pipe thread. So most likely a square head pipe plug, but could be recessed square or hex headed plug as well. May have been drilled and have cotter pin in it. A compromise of plugged to keep things out but let moisture drip out.

The D4 7U have 1 plug under the flywell and one for the transmission and bevel gear together and have one plug each side final drive inspection cover and one under each stering cluch and it is the same plug L-827..

ours has in-hex bungs i made a spanner using a old nut and a piece of bar. all drain bungs are underneath the finals are filled and checked from 2 bungs at the rear but since you have a winch mounted they maybe hard to see.

the photo of the oil stain is too close up to see what it is take a pic form a further distance. it is oil mixed with water could be nothing could be something.

drop the bellyplat and have another look it may be hidden under it.

the final drive fill cup have been removed and replaced with bungs to check them simply raise the rear of the machine easiest method is reverse it up on to aprox 3inch blocks that will raise it enough to make the oil when correct level with the bottom of the thread they dont need much oil in there. the simplest thing is drain it raise the machine and fill with the stated amount in the owners book note where the oil rises to with that much raise and presto you have a good idea of the oil level.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

We ran the machine yesterday and no smoke ... so I suspect something got into the dry clutch area and it was burning off. I covered the steering clutches since we have rain coming the next couple of days.

The final drives were filled from the rear of the machine when we were doing maintenance via two long tubes which flushed up against the normally located rear fill / check points since the wench is in place; they are exposed via two 1" hex bell like covers with internal threading on either side of the wench. They were drained from a 3/4" box head maybe 1" threaded bung on ether drive side toward the inside of the machine. One had nothing in it, the other had half of what it should when we did this.

This image shows the check plug (3/4 threaded I think) open on left of the wench to set the wench oil level (the fluid below is what came out of there and the bottom drain when we swapped it out for the first time since taking ownership. The bell cover with the 1" hex on it just below the hole is the one used to fill the final drives / check levels.