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Late 1958 D4 7U
Late 1958 D4 7U
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3 years 7 months ago #227820
by neil
Are you in New England? Milton Cat are still around - they're my local dealer over here in Western NY. They can get you a new knob for the starting pinion control on the left side. If you have an opportunity, could you video both the operation of the various levers as you first push the control in to brake the pinion, and then pull it all the way out to engage it. I have a notion to build something like that on my 5U just for grins, and it would just be a matter of making the various arms to the right shape and size. I have the parts catalog that includes the in-seat starting arrangement and it would fit on the 5U since it uses the same starting arrangement
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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3 years 7 months ago #227836
by trainzkid88
interesting machine. that is definatly a conversion to get the angle tilt blade and it does drive of the generator.
the flange face hydraulic fittings are sae code 61 still readily available any hose and fittings joint can supply them you need to reuse the flanges though as the modern ones are 4 bolt not 2 bolt. if the rams leak from rust pitting get them reshafted much cheaper than rechroming. we had ours done worked out the price for both was the same as just rechroming one.
the fuel cocks are easy fixed try nipping the gland nut a little if that doesnt work then new gland packing is needed or just change them to modern ball type shutoff cocks and not have a issue also some have a "sweet spot" where they wont leak it may take some fiddling to find it.
track rollers are important broken one should be changed and worn ones need to be changed or rebuilt. the rollers keep the track in line worn rollers can damage sprockets.
as for the bent grouser does it bind in the track or on anything if not leave it alone it will last for ages if it does bind on something cut the damaged bit off till it dont bind anymore
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3 years 7 months ago #227838
by projectanavita
Are you in New England? Milton Cat are still around - they're my local dealer over here in Western NY. They can get you a new knob for the starting pinion control on the left side.
Yeah we are west of milton I think 3 or so hours if I recall so they are "local" for sure ... don't relaly "need" a new knob but will keep it in mind if I want to replace it.
Neil" post=227820
If you have an opportunity, could you video both the operation of the various levers as you first push the control in to brake the pinion, and then pull it all the way out to engage it.
Next time I am up at the property I will show what is actuated with the knob being pushed forward vs back from the side it is on. When I first saw the knob beforing having it on site and starting it myself I wondered about if it simpily moved existing pinion controls as well. I will make a note to grab some basic video and some measurements which might be usefult to know.
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3 years 7 months ago #227842
by neil
Sounds good thanks! You must be close to the border with NY - Dan Pendzick is over that way, somewhere in the vicinity of Adams/Pittsfield and is a knowledgeable fellow. I figured the engineers had worked out the correct angles so that pulling the knob from braked through to clutch engaged has to travel through "engage pinion" and that that could be accomplished if the pinion engage portion was over-center so that the engagement rod could travel back to fully home when the clutch was in the engaged position.
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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3 years 6 months ago - 3 years 6 months ago #228493
by projectanavita
Got a chance to clean the machine the last two days, found a huge rock stuck near the back sproket which was fun BUT I didn't find a single button head on this thing ... what am I missing here?
The following links the first in a series of images where I thought I would find the button heads but instead found zerks and in some cases a bolt or square head screw 0__0
Missing button heads
by
callmeburton
, on Flickr
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3 years 6 months ago #228495
by Ray54
The place on final drive you have picture was converted on many Cats to small grease nipple fitting in place of button heads. You rollers with the square plug are sealed type no greasing needed. Well at least until it starts leaking. I had one of that type that was a goner in 20 to 30 hours of use after spotting the leak. So next time I saw one leaking I drilled a plug out to put a grease fitting in and filled with grease and replaced plug. It lasted a number of years and 200 to 500 hour and the tractor was parked for other reasons. The front idler wheel could also be greased without the button head, but as far as I know does need greasing.
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3 years 6 months ago #228497
by projectanavita
Another odd finding ... the front blade is really sloppy ... hard to keep things smooth and I suspect because something (maybe a bushing) is missing here
Then I also found this happened after pressure washing BUT I didn't clean the deck and made sure to stay away from where I suspected there were seas. We haven't drained the fluids and replaced them yet but this didn't look good lol
And as promised I also took photos / video / measurements of the in seating pinion controls ... looking back though I don't think it will help so let me know if there is anything else I can do to get details which might provide more for the community
Basic image here (there is a lever missing in the picture to bottom right) but you can browse the album this is in to see other details
flickr.com/photos/71805301@N05/albums/72...73/with/51181638117/
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3 years 6 months ago #228503
by projectanavita
The front idler wheel could also be greased without the button head, but as far as I know does need greasing.
Thanks,
I think the front idler also has a zerk fitting ... my main concern is using the right grease (RL) where it needs it. I feel like I should pull all the roller plugs to check for grease status ... no clue if any of them are in need of attention or not. These were points 12, 15, 16 in the tractor manual calling for RL grease which is why I went looking for them.
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3 years 6 months ago #228505
by neil
Those pictures are great thanks! Only thing I could want more (other than the parts to set it up on mine : ), is pictures of the linkage in the braking position (knob pushed all the way in), in the pulled back to engaged the pinion position (knob held all the way out) and then in the engaged and knob released position. I take it the photos you posted are of the arrangment in the disengaged position (which may be the same linkage-wise as the engaged and knob-released position). And a video of it being operated (braked, engaged, released)
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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3 years 6 months ago - 3 years 6 months ago #228517
by projectanavita
And a video of it being operated (braked, engaged, released)
There is actually a short video made with my cell phone at that time (can get better with my gimbled go pro in future) if you follow this "image" link you can watch it on flickr
I take it the photos you posted are of the arrangment in the disengaged position
Correct
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Late 1958 D4 7U
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