The wick material your talking about is driven up along each side of the cap and the block and is a half moon channel machined on each side in the cap about a 5/16" radius and all the wick does is control any seepage getting by which wouldn,t be much. Normally if it,s in there it stays till it,s disassembled again. As for the crank if the bearing is dropped down and you see spiral or worn grooves in the rear half of the bearing shell then the bearing is worn or the crank or both. Many times just a new bearing will correct oil from sneaking by back into the clutch compartment.

Thanks for the reply SJ,
The bearing you are talking about is the bearing shell inside the rear main cap or is there another bearing after the rear main cap?

Well the Starter clutch just won't come out,
I have done the following
1. Removed pony motor
2. Removed rear Governor cover
3. Removed rear cover on starter clutch housing
4. engaged pinion as far as it would go
5. spun the starter saft in different places to see if I get any more movement
6. Removed the rear side engine cover for more room
7. spent 4hrs today wiggling and jiggling it:D

And it still I don't have enough room to pull it out:eek:
The starter housing hits the bottom of the governors top lip

When the pinion is engaged, Is the pinion meant to flush against the Large locking nut on the shaft part number T-259-NUT. as mine sits about 10mm away from the nut, If I pull the pinion lever more the pinion will sit flush on the nut but will not hold there when lever is let go.
Not sure is that would give me some more room?

My options I have that I see are
1. to get the 4" grinder out and relieve some metal to give more room

2. Take the whole governor off ( but not sure how to take it off)

3. Get the loader out and tow the D$ back into the paddock and forget about it

4. Or is there something else I could try?

After 4 hrs today I had enough and opted for a cold beer

Cheer Simon

Simon, that rear bearing is one piece bearing and is a little longer with the rear section on it that the screw part of the crank area does it,s purpose.There is a deep groove between the front part of the bearing that the crank rides on and the rear seaction that controls the oil from the screw on the crank.The gov. is very simple to remove and inside you,ll see the bar link from the rack bar and a clevis hooked to an arm just inside the cover so just remove that pin (bolt) and the bolts holding the gov. housing to the inj. housing and it will come right off then.

Well guys I finally got the the starter clutch assembly out, I tried to remove the governor, but only have 1 good hand it was a too hard to remove the 3 rear mounting bolts.

So I decided to remove some metal off the housing on the starter clutch and that enabled me to remove the assembly after 5 days of trying,.

I found the problem with the clutch, it was missing a small wood ruff key at the brake end. and reason it was so tight to remove the assembly was the locking tab washer had lost its tabs. And the whole stop assembly had unscrewed itself making the assembly 10mm to long
.
So relieved now, onto the next task

Thanks for all your help guys

Cheers Simon

G'day Simon,

Wish I saw your post earlier, I had the same heartache with my 212 grader, I ended up removing the governor from the main fuel pump so I could get the pinion clutch out.

I have a radiator to suit your d4, it has a brand new core will have a brand new neck and radiator cap, and painted if you are interested.

I have also tried tilly's for parts on several occasions but have never had any luck.

hi guys
give jeff a try for your parts, he is deaf and you have to talk to him through his wife but he knows his stuff,
Deaf Jeff's Cat Bits
500 Boundary Rd, TOOWOOMBA CITY, QLD 4350
p: (07) 4634 2000