First off, thank you LSR and Squatch! After almost 7 long months the journey is almost complete. And thank you to the gentleman in Colton, Mr. Hayes! Cant remember his screen name on here, but he was a wealth of knowledge and parts, and just 20 miles from home. For you purists.....please forgive me. Its a bit of a mutt pony motor. Blending a D25U core pony with a D4 factory pony electric start, to go on a D25J. I had to have my neighbor turn some .030 under crank bearings, as I couldn't quite stomach the $400 quote from Florin Tractor. I refurbished most of the stock studs, but replaced almost all other nuts, bolts and screws with stainless steel wherever possible. Carb rebuilt. Magneto torn apart, cleaned and greased. Everything stripped down to bare metal and painted. Now just need to test fire and dial in the carb and governor. As a bit of a lurker on the forum, I must thank all on the forum for various bits of input they have given over the years. The starter pinion is the last thing to tinker with before reinstallation.

Too many pictures.

......and more pics.....

Head gaskets going on.

I fabricated a custom magneto switch and choke/throttle mount. And the factory electric start warranted a custom aluminum spacer on the oil fill cup, so I could maintain a one piece oil fill breather to carb intake. All in all, I'd say it turned out fair to midland.

Hi Skoop,
It looks a wonderfull job and congrats on getting it done, I did notice one thing that is not correct and that is the cam followers are installed back to front, the small end with groove should be on the valve stem end.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Regards

heres a tip if you want nuts that wont seize on on manifolds due to the heat use brass nuts or a dab of copper or nickel anti-seize on both threads it will also allow you to get them properly tight at the specified tension without binding and they will undo later if required. a dab of graphite grease works well too (don't use graphite containing material on stainless it will attack it)
remember stainless steel is weaker than high tensile steel. most cat fasteners were grade5 or grade8 high tensile steel stainless may break. yes cat stuff was over engineered for a lot of things.

otherwise looks nice. hope it always starts first time every time.

Looks good Skoop. I just rebuilt mine in the past year and your pictures reminds me a lot of mine, except I wasn't as thorough with the painting as you were.

The Mr Hayes you refer to would be droptube I believe.