944 bell crank repair options

If at all possible, I would drill the hole and put a bolt through instead of welding it. I would be afraid of the welded in bolt snapping off at the edge of the weld. I guess if that happens you could drill it out at that time.

Have you checked aftermarket sources? I don’t have a parts book for the 944 but if you want to post the numbers, I’ll look. Our 944 needs the same treatment but the owner doesn’t really care that you can’t travel in high range high gear. I was able to source the needed joints for my 922b and it’s tight now.

Thanks for the reply ccjersey and that is a good point. I will machine up a couple of bushes and weld them in. Then the bolt will not be heat affected.
[quote]
Have you checked aftermarket sources? I don’t have a parts book for the 944 but if you want to post the numbers, I’ll look. Our 944 needs the same treatment but the owner doesn’t really care that you can’t travel in high range high gear. I was able to source the needed joints for my 922b and it’s tight now.[/quote]
Yes but only in Australia and on ebay.
I would need to replace the entire bell crank assembly to be able to fit new or used OEM ball joints and seats. Bell crank part number is 4K2861. Stud part number is 4K3792. Seat 3K5181, ring 2K5340, spring 2K5335 and the plug 2K5334.

Regards

Phil

If you’re looking for a Tie rod end to use the Bareco B5559 JD replacement is listed as 23.6 mm diameter at top/thread area and 26.5 mm at bottom of taper. I haven’t seen anything else anywhere that big but I am a bit cautious that those dimensions are a misprint because the JD part number they interchange with seems to be on some pretty small tractors. But I have no personal experience with any of them so maybe that’s really how big the stud is.

Another idea I had and what I would probably do if I had to do something quick and dirty would be to “pour” a bearing cup in the bell crank using molten bronze or a hard babbet around the best ball stud I could come up with. It would certainly not hold up as well as the original but should last a while and take all the slop out. Might even pour it around the existing bering shell if it fits the ball at all well.

Another idea I had is to retrofit the tie rod and belcrank to use the ball stud and bearing from the outer ends of the tie rods. I believe those are still available as I got an aftermarket set a couple years ago. I’ll try to remember to look tomorrow to see if that is even somewhat of a possibility.

Those are really buggered!

I can’t imagine that the spring usually found inside a unit like that wasn’t ruined by the heat of welding them in. I expect they didn’t last nearly as long as normal.

What could they have been thinking on the tie rods? Theft prevention? Couldn’t go very fast getting away!

I replaced the ball stud and bearing on one of the tie rod ends a couple years ago. Seems there were some small parts of the assembly I didn’t/couldn’t get but I put it together as best I could and it steers pretty well. Keeping it in my lane on the highway keeps me busy at top speed but it’s possible. Had to make a run just at dark the other night to shove a tree out of the highway after a storm. That’s the longest drive and the highest speed I’ve taken it up to since I worked on the steering.

Good luck with the 944, I don’t think there’s any way but up from it’s present condition!

Hi Team,
I wonder if large Rose/Heim joints in say 3/4" and up sizes would work--not sure if seal boots are available for this size but would be easily replaced and simple to fit with Grade 8 Cat bolts as I am sure longevity would be marginal--cost etc. would be a factor too.

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/3-4-x-3-4-right-hand-male-xmr12-ultra-high-performance-rod-end-36/

Cheers,
Eddie B.