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RD4 4G132 Combustion Chamber Advice needed

RD4 4G132 Combustion Chamber Advice needed

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nielske
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Whe have a RD4 in to the workshop at the moment because the engine had no compression.
Took the head off to check the valves.
Result was cilinder number 2 had water in it for some time and the valve seats are gone.

Now we want to take the Combustion Chambers out so they can make new valve seats.
How do i take the chambers out? There is no spline or a way to fit a hex bolt.

It looks like it is a chamber in 2 pices and i need to press the top piece off before i can crew the second part out??

Does someone has a scan from a partsbook for this type Rd4 and knows how to take them out.

Thanks nielske

[attachment=57133]417AE341-DFAC-45C6-8085-A6F426CC5CA6.jpg[/attachment]
The seats are realy Rusted

[attachment=57134]BA1B4D8F-B003-4F7C-ACCE-76F41B0B8469.jpg[/attachment]
The valves...

[attachment=57136]IMG_3168.jpg[/attachment]
Complete head

[attachment=57137]IMG_3169.jpg[/attachment]
Closeup from the combustion chamber

[attachment=57138]IMG_3170.jpg[/attachment]
4G132 (makes it 1936)

[attachment=57135]IMG_3142.jpg[/attachment]
The complete machine. Whe will change the compleet undercariage for some better
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Mon, Feb 10, 2020 4:44 PM
Rome K/G
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Those chambers are press in type and pulled out with a adapter that threads in the chamber. The one tool I made the other is a the Cat tool I had for years. You can use a hollow ram or a piece of heavy wall pipe and plate also. The chambers are one piece.
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Mon, Feb 10, 2020 10:11 PM
Irwin
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I had my rd4 head redone las year and left the chambers in.machine shop said leave them in.good luck
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Mon, Feb 10, 2020 10:15 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Irwin:
I had my rd4 head redone las year and left the chambers in.machine shop said leave them in.good luck
Also the copper washers on the bottom of the chamber are shaped with a bevel or diamond shaped, <>, they seal better than the flat washer. The chambers have to be snuggly drove in too. The only thing that holds them down is the two studs beside the chamber, so torque those evenly, @ 40 ft lbs +-
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Mon, Feb 10, 2020 10:46 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Also the copper washers on the bottom of the chamber are shaped with a bevel or diamond shaped, <>, they seal better than the flat washer. The chambers have to be snuggly drove in too. The only thing that holds them down is the two studs beside the chamber, so torque those evenly, @ 40 ft lbs +-
This is the tool used with a bridge support. That top thick washer is actually a bearing next to the nut for easier turning.
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Tue, Feb 11, 2020 3:52 AM
nielske
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Reply to Rome K/G:
This is the tool used with a bridge support. That top thick washer is actually a bearing next to the nut for easier turning.
Thanks for the reply! realy good information.
The tool with the bridge support looks like the camber is in 2 pices?
So it takes the top half off and than you have to unscrew the bottom side??


Thanks Niels
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Tue, Feb 11, 2020 1:53 PM
STEPHEN
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Reply to nielske:
Thanks for the reply! realy good information.
The tool with the bridge support looks like the camber is in 2 pices?
So it takes the top half off and than you have to unscrew the bottom side??


Thanks Niels
[quote="nielske"]Thanks for the reply! realy good information.
The tool with the bridge support looks like the camber is in 2 pices?
So it takes the top half off and than you have to unscrew the bottom side??


Thanks Niels[/quote]

No, it's one piece that drives in. Pull it using the threads
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Tue, Feb 11, 2020 8:12 PM
nielske
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Chapter Two
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Reply to STEPHEN:
[quote="nielske"]Thanks for the reply! realy good information.
The tool with the bridge support looks like the camber is in 2 pices?
So it takes the top half off and than you have to unscrew the bottom side??


Thanks Niels[/quote]

No, it's one piece that drives in. Pull it using the threads


👍👍
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Tue, Feb 11, 2020 9:44 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to nielske:
Thanks for the reply! realy good information.
The tool with the bridge support looks like the camber is in 2 pices?
So it takes the top half off and than you have to unscrew the bottom side??


Thanks Niels
[quote="nielske"]Thanks for the reply! realy good information.
The tool with the bridge support looks like the camber is in 2 pices?
So it takes the top half off and than you have to unscrew the bottom side??


Thanks Niels[/quote]
Yes the bridge support and the threaded puller are two separate pieces. The bridge support sets down over the two studs. The bridge can also be made out of heavy wall tubing and a plate with hole in the center. Now the one i made [in yellow] threads into the prechamber and the long bolt goes through the hollow hyd ram, the ram sets on the bridge then.
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Tue, Feb 11, 2020 9:47 PM
STEPHEN
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Reply to Rome K/G:
[quote="nielske"]Thanks for the reply! realy good information.
The tool with the bridge support looks like the camber is in 2 pices?
So it takes the top half off and than you have to unscrew the bottom side??


Thanks Niels[/quote]
Yes the bridge support and the threaded puller are two separate pieces. The bridge support sets down over the two studs. The bridge can also be made out of heavy wall tubing and a plate with hole in the center. Now the one i made [in yellow] threads into the prechamber and the long bolt goes through the hollow hyd ram, the ram sets on the bridge then.
Ok, just thought I would take a pic of two chambers.
The threaded one is from a D4600/D4400. The other one is a press fit style 2B3708 that fits somthing?? Anyway it was something I bought for a look & see research.
Hope this helps someone
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Thu, Feb 13, 2020 2:46 AM
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