D2 Fuel Supply Line

Happy New Year everyone. This is a followup to a post I had in November in which I had a couple of questions, one related to a leaking fuel supply line at the adapter to the transfer pump. I'm posting this in a new thread because I'm expanding the question. Sometime in the past, the original fuel line from the tank was replaced with 1/2" copper tubing, and the ferrules were soldered onto the ends. Question 1 - I believe the ferrules are the original Cat type, can anyone confirm?

When I tried to shut the fuel off at the tank valve, the valve started leaking around the packing. I tried tightening, but it did not stop the dripping. Question 2 - is this an original Cat valve or an aftermarket replacement? When I took the valve apart, I noticed scoring around the walls of the valve. I'm concerned this would not allow a proper seal to shut the fuel off completely. Question 3 - should I replace this valve or is it repairable (or ok to use as is)? If I replace, I'd like to find something a little more compact.

I'm considering adding a pre-filter since many have recommended this and there was a lot of sediment in the valve when I took it apart. I've read a couple of threads related to this including this one from 2010 (http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?8368-Pre-Fuel-Filter-for-a-Cat-D2) in which Cysco, Old Magnet, and others in which this was discussed, and Cysco decided on a Wix 24309 base. I'd rather mount this near the seat tank area vs near the starter pinion of possible. Question 4 - Since this was 10 years ago, is there a more compact/better pre-filter available or is this one recommended?

I'm considering changing the copper tubing to -8 flexible hose to allow for a better fit and easier install. I stopped by a hydraulic hose shop a couple of days ago and asked about stainless steel braided hose with the teflon lining. During our discussion, he mentioned a cheaper alternative, which was a reinforced rubber hose that was rated for diesel fuel, called 801 hose. I'm still leaning towards the SS braided line, but I'm confused on the ends that I need crimped on. They use Parker hose and fittings, and there seem to be all kinds of fittings available, including -10 fittings to go on -8 hose. In the post I referred to above, OM mentioned that he uses a -10 o-ring boss adapter on his machine, but also mentions a JIC 37 degree fitting as an option. Question 5 - is the Cat flange inside of the adapter a 37 degree flange, and if not, is it close enough to give an adequate seal? Question 6 - would the JIC 37 degree fitting be the preferred fitting for the transfer pump adapter, and if not, what would be the best fitting to replace the original Cat ferrule?

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Lots of questions....
I buy my fittings and hose from www.discounthydraulichose.com
The original ferrules are not 37* but the JIC is close enough to work. Problem is the standard JIC fittings do not have enough reach to seat the taper. The JIC bulkhead fittings are much longer but are to long to work in tight spaces. I have found the -10 o-ring boss fitting works fine without the taper just using pipe dope sealer and the compatible o-ring. I use regular hydraulic hose for fuel line. Adding braid complicates the fitting requirements.

If you must use the original valves they can be lapped with a little valve grinding compound to remove seat defects. I replace mine with compact ball valves.

Check the available filter base options at discount hydraulic hose, that's where I get mine. Many available thread sizes and they are compact and reasonable. If any down side they are all die cast construction including the cartridge nipple so thread carefully.

For a pre filter I use a Bf7693 in line 1/2 inch filter screen on my 12. see it at Amazon. I carry spare, but I can also remove it and wash it out with gasoline from the can I carry for my poney. Slosh it around and dump it backwards. Keep it simple.

I did mine up a year or two ago. I replaced the ferrule nuts brand new from Cat, and lapped the ferrules into the original valves using my cordless drill, as well as lapping the valves themselves. I believe Dana at Florin has new ferrules if you need them. I replaced the line with 1/2" copper which I swaged a little to get a closer fit to the ferrule for soldering. There may be some pictures on here if you run an advanced search for posts started by me

Thanks all OM, Oldbeek, and Neil. Very helpful.