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1939 D13000 Generator Set Repair

1939 D13000 Generator Set Repair

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ALLEngineMechanic
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Hello all!
This is my first thread on this site, Thank You for having me.

I am posting in regard to a project I started over two years ago which I am finally getting back on.
The project in question is a 66 KW generator set which is powered by a 1939 D13000 engine, serial #1N1160. The generator end itself was built by General Electric.
A little background first...
I purchased this unit from the son of the original owner and removed it from it's original installation (a dairy processing operation) in Barto, PA. It has a little over 2400 hrs on the clock and was used as stand-by power in case of utility power failure. The unit was in service up until around 2005-2009 from what I was told. At that time the operator discovered that rain water had gotten down the exhaust stack and the engine was stuck tight.
After getting the unit home I began the disassembly process. Found that #3 and #4 cylinders were rusted up pretty bad and the rest of the cylinders were worn. Oil in the sump looked like tar and the internals were coated in the usual heavy black sludge. After pulling #3 and #4 pistons and rods the engine still would not turn. Turns out that the water pump drive gears had rusted together, I am guessing from condensation. All of the timing gears show evidence of pitting, I think they will clean up without issue though.

At this point all 6 pistons and rods are out along with all 6 cylinder liners. I have cleaned the water jacket out and am now inspecting the block deck and cylinder liner counter-bores.
This brings me to my first question...
I am noticing a "step" at the bottom corner of the counter-bore on all cylinders. It is more pronounced in some places than others. I have measured the depth of the counter-bores in 4 places on each of the holes and they all come in at .525" deep.
So, is this "step" a problem? Do I need to have the counter-bores "cleaned up" before installing the new liners and seals?

Thank You for your advice!
-Mike
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Mon, Dec 23, 2019 5:44 AM
ag-mike
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Hey mike, Glad to see u made it. I believe if it came that way from factory i'd leave it. I'm not a machinist and barley a mechanic. Were there any shims for liner protrusion under the liner lips? 22 years ago when i did liners on my d4 i member removing and getting new shims with my regal liners. The id of the new shim maynot reach that deeper cut. Good luck, hope u get ur question answered.
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Mon, Dec 23, 2019 8:14 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ag-mike:
Hey mike, Glad to see u made it. I believe if it came that way from factory i'd leave it. I'm not a machinist and barley a mechanic. Were there any shims for liner protrusion under the liner lips? 22 years ago when i did liners on my d4 i member removing and getting new shims with my regal liners. The id of the new shim maynot reach that deeper cut. Good luck, hope u get ur question answered.
If I'm following you correctly there should not be a step in the counter bore. Wondering if that's the result of liner movement. Not clear what your showing in the picture with the arrow. I'm also wondering if the counter bore has been machined oversize and does not match the liner step diameter.
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Tue, Dec 24, 2019 12:00 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If I'm following you correctly there should not be a step in the counter bore. Wondering if that's the result of liner movement. Not clear what your showing in the picture with the arrow. I'm also wondering if the counter bore has been machined oversize and does not match the liner step diameter.
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"Those liners have been dancin like cat on a hot tin roof, if ya ask me!"
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Tue, Dec 24, 2019 12:51 AM
ALLEngineMechanic
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Reply to Rome K/G:
"Those liners have been dancin like cat on a hot tin roof, if ya ask me!"
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Thanks for the replies!

Mike, you don't give yourself enough credit!
Yes, there were shims under the liner lip. My parts book calls them "gaskets", part No. 2B6463. The old ones are a solid copper ring and measure right at .030" thick. I measured the lip on the old liners and they are right at .500". This would give the old liners .005" protrusion over the deck as the depth of the counter-bore is .525".
When I realized that #3 and #4 liners were junk I went ahead and ordered two liners and the associated gaskets / seals. I measured the new gaskets / shims and they also come in at .030" and they are steel, not copper. The new liners also have a .500" lip.
Mike, did you have the counter-bores re machined on your D4?
Where do I find specs for liner protrusion?
Up until now I have been using the "Servicemen's Reference Book" form No. FE031226-02. This does not go into much detail concerning liner replacement, it pretty much says just pop em out and pop new ones in with new gaskets and seals. Is there a master service manual for this engine I can purchase?

Sorry if the previous picture was unclear. The arrow is pointing to the "step" that I am seeing in the counter-bore.
I agree that it appears the old liners were bouncing around in there. What surprises me is that all the measurements are all the same cylinder to cylinder. All .525" deep.

I have attached a couple pictures of the old and new liners. The old liners have a "flat top" while the new liners have a contoured top which matches the style of liner in the image Old Magnet posted.

This week I will go ahead and set one of the new liners in the block with the new shim / gasket and measure the protrusion.
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Tue, Dec 24, 2019 8:21 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ALLEngineMechanic:
Thanks for the replies!

Mike, you don't give yourself enough credit!
Yes, there were shims under the liner lip. My parts book calls them "gaskets", part No. 2B6463. The old ones are a solid copper ring and measure right at .030" thick. I measured the lip on the old liners and they are right at .500". This would give the old liners .005" protrusion over the deck as the depth of the counter-bore is .525".
When I realized that #3 and #4 liners were junk I went ahead and ordered two liners and the associated gaskets / seals. I measured the new gaskets / shims and they also come in at .030" and they are steel, not copper. The new liners also have a .500" lip.
Mike, did you have the counter-bores re machined on your D4?
Where do I find specs for liner protrusion?
Up until now I have been using the "Servicemen's Reference Book" form No. FE031226-02. This does not go into much detail concerning liner replacement, it pretty much says just pop em out and pop new ones in with new gaskets and seals. Is there a master service manual for this engine I can purchase?

Sorry if the previous picture was unclear. The arrow is pointing to the "step" that I am seeing in the counter-bore.
I agree that it appears the old liners were bouncing around in there. What surprises me is that all the measurements are all the same cylinder to cylinder. All .525" deep.

I have attached a couple pictures of the old and new liners. The old liners have a "flat top" while the new liners have a contoured top which matches the style of liner in the image Old Magnet posted.

This week I will go ahead and set one of the new liners in the block with the new shim / gasket and measure the protrusion.
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Latest specs for 5-3/4" bore liners is a projection of 0.006 +/-0.002". The maximum difference in height of liners next to each other is 0.001". The maximum difference between high and low measurements made at four places around each liner is 0.001". Measurements to be made with the liners held down using head studs and nuts torqued to 50 ft. lbs. Maximum depth of counter bore is 0.553"

Check with Cat as to whether or not to use a "filler band" that goes in the groove just below the flange.
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Tue, Dec 24, 2019 1:41 PM
ALLEngineMechanic
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Latest specs for 5-3/4" bore liners is a projection of 0.006 +/-0.002". The maximum difference in height of liners next to each other is 0.001". The maximum difference between high and low measurements made at four places around each liner is 0.001". Measurements to be made with the liners held down using head studs and nuts torqued to 50 ft. lbs. Maximum depth of counter bore is 0.553"

Check with Cat as to whether or not to use a "filler band" that goes in the groove just below the flange.
Thank you Old Magnet, that info is very useful!
How do I go about holding the liner down for the projection measurement? Do I need a fixture of sorts that will apply even pressure around the circumference of the liner lip? Which studs do I use, the 5/8” or the 7/8”, or a combination of both?
I will call Foley Cat after the holiday and see if I can speak with someone regarding the filler bands.
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Tue, Dec 24, 2019 10:45 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ALLEngineMechanic:
Thank you Old Magnet, that info is very useful!
How do I go about holding the liner down for the projection measurement? Do I need a fixture of sorts that will apply even pressure around the circumference of the liner lip? Which studs do I use, the 5/8” or the 7/8”, or a combination of both?
I will call Foley Cat after the holiday and see if I can speak with someone regarding the filler bands.
Some references.....
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Tue, Dec 24, 2019 11:23 PM
ALLEngineMechanic
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Some references.....
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Fantastic info! Thank you again Old Magnet!
Looks like I will have to spend some time checking each counter bore with a new liner.
Another question if I may, what is the spec for flatness of the cylinder block deck?
I would like to check this before I start setting liners. At this time I have all of the head studs removed so it should be easy enough to check with a 36" straight edge.
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Wed, Dec 25, 2019 3:56 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ALLEngineMechanic:
Fantastic info! Thank you again Old Magnet!
Looks like I will have to spend some time checking each counter bore with a new liner.
Another question if I may, what is the spec for flatness of the cylinder block deck?
I would like to check this before I start setting liners. At this time I have all of the head studs removed so it should be easy enough to check with a 36" straight edge.
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I don't know of an actual spec but so long is there is little to no daylight under a straight edge should be fine.
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Wed, Dec 25, 2019 4:02 AM
ag-mike
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I don't know of an actual spec but so long is there is little to no daylight under a straight edge should be fine.
36" long enough??? lol. thanks 4 kind words, i didn't clean up counter bores, this was a in frame topend job my youngest and i did in the back shop. i was so inexperenced then i didn't even know to look and ask. i ask if u had copper shims (gaskets) in there, weren't they messed up from liner dancing mentioned above? good luck with ur project. please call when u can, cummins genny ????? no biggie maybe 5 minutes.
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Wed, Dec 25, 2019 5:04 AM
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