I'm having some problems of gears grinding when I shift from forward to reverse and back. This is not all the time. The only way to get it to shift without grinding when it happens is to wait for a while and the it will shift. Could it be the clutch needs adjusting. Any help would be appericated.

Your Probleme Should A Bad Brak Cluch Adjustement.

Thanks, Where and how might I make a adjustment. Is the adjustment made in the hand clutch lever or is it somewhere else?

The grinding happens when the transmission input shaft rotates with the clutch when the clutch is disengaged. Could be dragging a bit, but since you can wait and it won't grind, it's normal and you need to fix/adjust the clutch brake as mentioned by Hector so you don't have to wait.

If you remove the left floor plate, you can see the mechanism. There is a linkage adjustment for the brake and a support screw adjustment for the shoe. You need to make sure that the brake releases completely when you pull the clutch lever back and applies only when the clutch has snapped out and you push the clutch lever on forward a bit.

If the lining is completely gone, it's not a big deal to reline the brake shoe, just a few rivets and a piece of friction material from CAT or an automotive/industrial friction shop.

While you're in there, check the shifter lock mechanism which is also connected to the clutch lever. If you have the tractor engine stopped and the shifter in a gear with the clutch pulled back, you should not be able to move the shifter out of that gear position. While attempting to move the gear shift out into neutral with one hand, move the clutch lever forward. The shifter should not come out of gear until after the clutch has disengaged.

Many times there is enough wear that the clutch lever can move forward enough to release the interlock without disengaging the clutch first. This allows the transmission shifter to work out of gear and the tractor stops in a hard push usually.

Good luck!

Thanks, I've seen some of the parts you mentioned.

The info supplied by ccjersey on the clutch brake only applies if you have the oil clutch.....which is not likely with that low a serial number. The dry clutch brake is activated by the clutch release collar and yoke.

hello ,here is a sheet with ajustment info,i think it mite om sheet,bruce oz


http://i315.photobucket.com/albums/ll477/bacoly/rd6clutchadi.jpg?t=1214947899




.

OOPS! OM is correct, I haven't seen a dry clutch 9U in so long, I forgot they were different.

Does your clutch lever bottom out against the front of the floor plate slot before the brake engages? If so, it's possible that you could get some of the slack out of the linkage or perhaps adjust the linkage so you have more travel to move the engagement collar/brake surface farther to the rear.

With the dry clutch, you would have to pull the clutch to replace the brake disk if worn too badly. If that is the case, until you get it done, if you have a rear mounted CCU or winch, you can always stop the shaft with that.

Here's a drawing of the clutch and brake. Manual doesn't mention anything about adjusting the brake on the dry clutch, only to adjust the main clutch so it snaps in properly, so the external linkage between the lever and the clutch shaft arm would be the only shot. It might not be possible to adjust this external linkage very much without defeating the transmission shifter interlock.

Yes, it's a dry clutch and it was bottoming out against the front plate. I was able to adjust some out with the linkage and get about 1" off of front plate. The snap you are talking about I haven't heard. A friend said that we may have to adjust the clutch. Thanks for all the information. I'll see if the external linkage adjustment worked and if not it will be clutch adjustment time.

If the clutch hasn't been snapping over center (you mostly feel this, not hear it with the engine running) as you pull the clutch lever back, it's clutch adjustment time NOW! You don't want to have to put a foot on it to get it to snap back out, just requires a firm pull/push to make it go over center and the tractor will pull like it's supposed to.

If it's adjusted up too tight, (or your linkage adjustment won't allow the clutch lever to move to the rear enough before it hits the floor plate) the clutch won't snap in and you will have to hold the lever back all the time to make the tractor keep going. When it is too loose, it will loose the firm "snap" and tend to slip under load in the higher gears especially.

I would worry that adjusting for 1" clearance at the front of the floor plate, you won't have enough travel to fully engage the clutch as you pull the lever back. Probably will depend on how worn all the pins and forks are in the clutch linkage.

You may also have disabled the shifter interlock. That is easily checked though, as I mentioned before.