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What size grader is good for maintaining caliche road?

What size grader is good for maintaining caliche road?

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LCA078
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I bought a bunch of land and will need to maintain my caliche roads. About half of 'my' road is an easement a 1/2 mile long so the county doesn't touch it. The other 1/2 mile is on my land where I'll be the only traffic. It's the first 1/2 mile I wonder about as it does get some traffic and needs regular maintenance. That caliche sets up like concrete so not sure what is needed to grade it clean every years or so. Currently it's in poor shape but I can get a bunch of roadbase/caliche brought in to fix. I'm assuming I'll need some type of ripper on a tractor/dozer to loosen the top a bit but my question is what size grader is too small? I've seen older motor grades go for scrap prices so was wanting to pick one up for personal use. Is there a rule of thumb on size needed?
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Mon, Sep 30, 2019 8:36 PM
Rome K/G
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You can rent a Bobcat tracked loader with a grader attachment also, they work great for small jobs!
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Mon, Sep 30, 2019 9:20 PM
ccjersey
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Most common of all old graders is the CAT #12. However any of the CAT graders will be fine to maintain an existing road as long as it has a scarifier. I used to have a little 212 that was mighty useful.

Biggest thing on all old graders is how much slop there is in all the pivots and linkage ball ends etc. Usually there's quite a lot and the time spent getting rid of it is well spent!

Note that until the mid 1960's all CAT graders have dog clutch (knuckle buster) type controls.........not hydraulic. If one is worn out, it can be hard to accomplish what you want though if you're inventive you can usually find a way to get the blade set like you want.

There's a tutorial of sorts that Deas has posted before dealing with a lot of this stuff.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Oct 1, 2019 12:34 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to ccjersey:
Most common of all old graders is the CAT #12. However any of the CAT graders will be fine to maintain an existing road as long as it has a scarifier. I used to have a little 212 that was mighty useful.

Biggest thing on all old graders is how much slop there is in all the pivots and linkage ball ends etc. Usually there's quite a lot and the time spent getting rid of it is well spent!

Note that until the mid 1960's all CAT graders have dog clutch (knuckle buster) type controls.........not hydraulic. If one is worn out, it can be hard to accomplish what you want though if you're inventive you can usually find a way to get the blade set like you want.

There's a tutorial of sorts that Deas has posted before dealing with a lot of this stuff.
Hi, LCA078.
That 'tutorial' that ccjersey mentioned:

http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?20409-Cat-12-Graders-Pre-G-series

Allis Chalmers made the D, the DD and the 45 that would all do that work, so long as they have a scarifier attachment. As Jan M mentioned, Galion made the 118 which was about Cat 12 size and also the 503 which is about DD size and other manufacturers also made similar machines.

That said, the Cat machines are gonna be far and away the easiest to get parts for, should you need them. Personally, I would suggest looking for a Cat 12, 112 or 212. You may pay a bit more but that is better than standing and looking at a machine which is down 'cos you can't get parts for it.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Tue, Oct 1, 2019 2:16 AM
d9gdon
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, LCA078.
That 'tutorial' that ccjersey mentioned:

http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?20409-Cat-12-Graders-Pre-G-series

Allis Chalmers made the D, the DD and the 45 that would all do that work, so long as they have a scarifier attachment. As Jan M mentioned, Galion made the 118 which was about Cat 12 size and also the 503 which is about DD size and other manufacturers also made similar machines.

That said, the Cat machines are gonna be far and away the easiest to get parts for, should you need them. Personally, I would suggest looking for a Cat 12, 112 or 212. You may pay a bit more but that is better than standing and looking at a machine which is down 'cos you can't get parts for it.

Just my 0.02.
Best thing to do is to catch that caliche soon after a slow rain while it's still somewhat moist to blade it. That's after you have the washed out spots filled.

If you're a little bit patient, you can find the older Cat 12 or 120 knuckle buster motor graders from county precincts at auctions for $2500-$4500.
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Tue, Oct 1, 2019 3:35 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to d9gdon:
Best thing to do is to catch that caliche soon after a slow rain while it's still somewhat moist to blade it. That's after you have the washed out spots filled.

If you're a little bit patient, you can find the older Cat 12 or 120 knuckle buster motor graders from county precincts at auctions for $2500-$4500.
Hi, LCA078.
D9gdon has raised a very good point in his post. I can't offhand think of any material that doesn't work better with good moisture content - incldung road base.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Tue, Oct 1, 2019 9:40 AM
LCA078
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Reply to d9gdon:
Best thing to do is to catch that caliche soon after a slow rain while it's still somewhat moist to blade it. That's after you have the washed out spots filled.

If you're a little bit patient, you can find the older Cat 12 or 120 knuckle buster motor graders from county precincts at auctions for $2500-$4500.
[quote="d9gdon"]Best thing to do is to catch that caliche soon after a slow rain while it's still somewhat moist to blade it. That's after you have the washed out spots filled.

If you're a little bit patient, you can find the older Cat 12 or 120 knuckle buster motor graders from county precincts at auctions for $2500-$4500.[/quote]

It's almost as if you're reading my mind. I'm in no rush but I do want to pick up a nice grader. I've used blades on farm tractors but was always mad that the farm tractors were not able to put much down force on the blades to be useful with hard-pack. Always had to wait for a good rain to make a dent but then it was very easy to make more of a mess than fix the issues. Same with crowning and cleaning the ditches. I've never ran a grader but I was always amazed as a kid watching them fix the county roads from a pothole laden washboard into a smooth roadway. I don't need something big nor fancy, just reliable.

For the Cat 12, I see they run in the 20-25k lbs range for weight which is quite stout for a ranch grader- definitely hope to get one of those. I've seen smaller ones (Gallion?) that look like they weigh in the 10k range but always wonder if they could cut through the hard-pack. I guess they would be okay for light cleaning and grading but don't expect them to do daily road work like I saw the county crews do.
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Tue, Oct 1, 2019 11:19 AM
LCA078
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Reply to ccjersey:
Most common of all old graders is the CAT #12. However any of the CAT graders will be fine to maintain an existing road as long as it has a scarifier. I used to have a little 212 that was mighty useful.

Biggest thing on all old graders is how much slop there is in all the pivots and linkage ball ends etc. Usually there's quite a lot and the time spent getting rid of it is well spent!

Note that until the mid 1960's all CAT graders have dog clutch (knuckle buster) type controls.........not hydraulic. If one is worn out, it can be hard to accomplish what you want though if you're inventive you can usually find a way to get the blade set like you want.

There's a tutorial of sorts that Deas has posted before dealing with a lot of this stuff.
[quote="ccjersey"]Most common of all old graders is the CAT #12. However any of the CAT graders will be fine to maintain an existing road as long as it has a scarifier. I used to have a little 212 that was mighty useful.

Biggest thing on all old graders is how much slop there is in all the pivots and linkage ball ends etc. Usually there's quite a lot and the time spent getting rid of it is well spent!

Note that until the mid 1960's all CAT graders have dog clutch (knuckle buster) type controls.........not hydraulic. If one is worn out, it can be hard to accomplish what you want though if you're inventive you can usually find a way to get the blade set like you want.

There's a tutorial of sorts that Deas has posted before dealing with a lot of this stuff.[/quote]

Lots of good info here. I was hoping to find a hydraulic version but will settle for one the dog clutch if it's not too worn out. Hydraulic are simple to fix as they just usually need new seals and hoses but I have no idea how to fix a worn out dog clutch.
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Tue, Oct 1, 2019 11:30 AM
oldbeek
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Reply to LCA078:
[quote="ccjersey"]Most common of all old graders is the CAT #12. However any of the CAT graders will be fine to maintain an existing road as long as it has a scarifier. I used to have a little 212 that was mighty useful.

Biggest thing on all old graders is how much slop there is in all the pivots and linkage ball ends etc. Usually there's quite a lot and the time spent getting rid of it is well spent!

Note that until the mid 1960's all CAT graders have dog clutch (knuckle buster) type controls.........not hydraulic. If one is worn out, it can be hard to accomplish what you want though if you're inventive you can usually find a way to get the blade set like you want.

There's a tutorial of sorts that Deas has posted before dealing with a lot of this stuff.[/quote]

Lots of good info here. I was hoping to find a hydraulic version but will settle for one the dog clutch if it's not too worn out. Hydraulic are simple to fix as they just usually need new seals and hoses but I have no idea how to fix a worn out dog clutch.
The big gears on the front of a 12 wear. They only work on 1/3 of the gear. Later 12s (1967) have 3 key ways and are easy to move to the next 1/3 key. Also easy to see if key has been moved to all 3 positions. Older, you have to disassemble the housing to turn them. The gears are still available. NOW, caliche is hell to work with. It will blow out with use and you will have holes of flower power material. Best to just fill those holes with good material or place gravel on the whole road. I formed a crown for a friend on his 1/2 mile of caliche road in one day during the rainy season. He then had 3inch of recycled concrete spread on it. He now has a solid all weather road. May be easier to just get the road built properly and you won't need a machine. I maintained Hubers, gallions and champions. They are all junk compared to a cat 12.
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Tue, Oct 1, 2019 12:34 PM
LCA078
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Reply to oldbeek:
The big gears on the front of a 12 wear. They only work on 1/3 of the gear. Later 12s (1967) have 3 key ways and are easy to move to the next 1/3 key. Also easy to see if key has been moved to all 3 positions. Older, you have to disassemble the housing to turn them. The gears are still available. NOW, caliche is hell to work with. It will blow out with use and you will have holes of flower power material. Best to just fill those holes with good material or place gravel on the whole road. I formed a crown for a friend on his 1/2 mile of caliche road in one day during the rainy season. He then had 3inch of recycled concrete spread on it. He now has a solid all weather road. May be easier to just get the road built properly and you won't need a machine. I maintained Hubers, gallions and champions. They are all junk compared to a cat 12.
Thanks Oldbeek- that's good info on the gears. Now it's just a waiting game for one to pop up.
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Thu, Oct 3, 2019 9:33 AM
catskinner
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Reply to LCA078:
Thanks Oldbeek- that's good info on the gears. Now it's just a waiting game for one to pop up.
A Cat 112 would work real good also. Stay away from Allis or Galion. catskinner
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Mon, Oct 7, 2019 7:29 AM
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