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Fuel additives

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Ray54
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Considering the changes in diesel fuel what experiences have you had in everyday use, as well as helping getting a engine going after a long nap.

Here in Calif it has been well over 20 years since sulfur levels have been reduced. I know people that had problems very soon after(not a Cat engine) and there was a lot talk of using additives to all fuel. The supplier I was using told me they were getting fuel from a small refinery that had gotten a exemption and my fuel had not changed,so I did not use any additives.

Things change, I have changed suppliers twice since and never used additives. Never had a fuel pump problem yet with anything other than a Roosa Masters.(probably happen tomorrow since I uddered it out loud ) I am sure I have been running low or even no sulur fuel over 15 years probably a lot longer.

One of the last "treasures" I revived is a D6 9u that was retired in 1985 with government farm land retirement.Used 1 or 2 days a year to do firebreaks until steering clutch rusted and didn't release. Other than rust like I had never seen in a fuel tank (3/4 or better full of fuel) I used the fuel with not a problem. It was clear with the smell of good fuel from way back. As there was a large fuel tank near barn where tractor was parked, would guess the fuel could have been from 85 yet. Near desert area with 10 inch average rainfall.


My guess is with stuck pumps and other problems being asked about here on forum the fuel we are buying today will not last like that. :crazy: But give us another 20 years and we will know more. :doh:

So what help have you seen from different additives. Does "new" fuel draw more water than old fuel? :doh😄oes it gel more(how could that be the way climate has warmed :wink😊 or easier. As the quarry about low power how do you feel about additives just because it may help.

Let fun begin.
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Thu, Sep 12, 2019 11:14 PM
oldbeek
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I don't think with the tolerances in these pumps it matters. But in use 1 qt of 2 cycle oil in every 35 gallons of fuel in my dodge. 220,000 miles and 18 years with no pump problems. Average life on my style pump is 150 k. With machines that sit around, I think the larger problem would be black sludge that forms in the tank. It is exacerbated by water being present. Your filters will be coated with a black slime. It is time to drain and clean your main tank when that stuff forms. I never add more fuel than needed for the job.But then, an empty tank causes more condensation. Cant win. I live in the desert so moisture is less here.
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Thu, Sep 12, 2019 11:27 PM
juiceman
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Good morning Ray54. Boy, you must be deep in thought over a cup of coffee!
We used to use a little bit of Siloo in our bulk tanks for the farm. I always notice a LOT of static electricity from the gravity fuel hose when refueling. Didn’t know if it helped or not. Currently I will add some Marvel “Mysterious” oil for giggles. I use Seafoam additive for my gasoline pony motors.
Don’t know if any of this helps other than add to the cost...most of our bulk fuel comes via Chevron. I was always told that each supplier likes to add their own snake oil whilst fueling tankers at the “rack” where it all comes in through the same pipeline for everyone. JM
*** P.S., off topic (you know me by now) I hope to make SM 2020, I can still remember how great the Tri-tip sammiches were. Wishing that you and the local Farm Bureau chefs will be back. Yummm!!!
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Thu, Sep 12, 2019 11:55 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to oldbeek:
I don't think with the tolerances in these pumps it matters. But in use 1 qt of 2 cycle oil in every 35 gallons of fuel in my dodge. 220,000 miles and 18 years with no pump problems. Average life on my style pump is 150 k. With machines that sit around, I think the larger problem would be black sludge that forms in the tank. It is exacerbated by water being present. Your filters will be coated with a black slime. It is time to drain and clean your main tank when that stuff forms. I never add more fuel than needed for the job.But then, an empty tank causes more condensation. Cant win. I live in the desert so moisture is less here.
Hi, oldbeek.
As I understand it, that 'black sludge is an algae that can grow in diesel fuel and can be stopped with an anti-algal additive.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Thu, Sep 12, 2019 11:55 PM
Layne
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, oldbeek.
As I understand it, that 'black sludge is an algae that can grow in diesel fuel and can be stopped with an anti-algal additive.

Just my 0.02.
Here's an actual scientific study someone did on that. 2 basic things to learn here: 1) Marvel Mystery oil is garbage and is significantly worse than nothing, 2) 2 cycle engine oil is the only thing other than a proper diesel additive with any positive effect at all.

Unfortunately they didn't test ATF, but people who rebuild injection pumps say it is abrasive and to never use it.


[attachment=55282]HFRRtesting.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
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Fri, Sep 13, 2019 4:51 AM
sheddcanyon
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Reply to Layne:
Here's an actual scientific study someone did on that. 2 basic things to learn here: 1) Marvel Mystery oil is garbage and is significantly worse than nothing, 2) 2 cycle engine oil is the only thing other than a proper diesel additive with any positive effect at all.

Unfortunately they didn't test ATF, but people who rebuild injection pumps say it is abrasive and to never use it.


[attachment=55282]HFRRtesting.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Back in the early 1990s, I flew a Cessna 195 with a 300 hp Jacobs radial engine. These old, low-compression engines called for 87 octane aviation fuel which was no longer available and only 100 octane low lead was available. I was advised by the previous owner to put TCP fuel additive in every tank of gas to reduce lead build up and to run a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil per every 60 gallons on every third fill-up to lubricate the top end. I put 300+ hours on that airplane and the compression never decreased. I have no clue whether that was because of or in spite of the oil.

I've been told Marvel Oil is just ATF in a fancier can. Looking at the chart above and the results each oil gets, I now believe it.
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Fri, Sep 13, 2019 8:44 AM
Crawler Dollars
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Reply to sheddcanyon:
Back in the early 1990s, I flew a Cessna 195 with a 300 hp Jacobs radial engine. These old, low-compression engines called for 87 octane aviation fuel which was no longer available and only 100 octane low lead was available. I was advised by the previous owner to put TCP fuel additive in every tank of gas to reduce lead build up and to run a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil per every 60 gallons on every third fill-up to lubricate the top end. I put 300+ hours on that airplane and the compression never decreased. I have no clue whether that was because of or in spite of the oil.

I've been told Marvel Oil is just ATF in a fancier can. Looking at the chart above and the results each oil gets, I now believe it.
I can only state from my personal experience, NOT from what 'someone's' test showed. :lalala: I've used Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) for years in just about anything with an engine and always gotten many more miles and hours of use than the average. My dad was a mechanic (not a 'tech') all his life and swore by it.
I also use their 'air tool oil' in all our air tools with great results.

MMO was designed for 'top end lubrication' when mixed in fuel...which is exactly what 2 stroke oil does for a 2 stroke engine.

What exactly was this test testing? Better performance? Better fuel economy? Longer engine life? :noidea:
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Fri, Sep 13, 2019 7:28 PM
trainzkid88
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Reply to Crawler Dollars:
I can only state from my personal experience, NOT from what 'someone's' test showed. :lalala: I've used Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) for years in just about anything with an engine and always gotten many more miles and hours of use than the average. My dad was a mechanic (not a 'tech') all his life and swore by it.
I also use their 'air tool oil' in all our air tools with great results.

MMO was designed for 'top end lubrication' when mixed in fuel...which is exactly what 2 stroke oil does for a 2 stroke engine.

What exactly was this test testing? Better performance? Better fuel economy? Longer engine life? :noidea:
diesel in itself isn't much of an issue other than lack of lubricity due to the extra lower sulphur content which also affects seals. the sulphur helped keep the rubber seals supple it is also a good EP lubricant. when you replace seals use viton instead of nbr/nitrile

the solution is to use an fuel conditioner such as flashlube for diesel or diesel power Lucas oil also make one that does diesel or petrol.

diesel bug is a issue especially in old tanks that have moisture ingress this is particularly true of outdoor tanks. moreys and wynns both make a diesel bug treatment.

petrol is much more of a issue since its getting harder to find straight unleaded fuel that hasnt been blended with ethanol.
ethanol is bad news for small engines as it absorbs moisture from the air and it also settles out of the fuel eventually.
it will disolve the diaphragm in briggs and stratton carbs and promotes corrosion due to absorbed moisture.

ethanol is only good if its triple distilled no fuel company does this its too costly
its okay in the daily drive as you use it quick enough and modern injected vehicles since the 90's have been able to handle it just fine at a ratio of 10%

with todays fuel a additive such as flashlube (stops valve seat recession)or similar and a fuel stabiliser are a must

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Fri, Sep 13, 2019 8:27 PM
trainzkid88
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, oldbeek.
As I understand it, that 'black sludge is an algae that can grow in diesel fuel and can be stopped with an anti-algal additive.

Just my 0.02.
[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, oldbeek.
As I understand it, that 'black sludge is an algae that can grow in diesel fuel and can be stopped with an anti-algal additive.

Just my 0.02.[/quote]

it is a film forming algae. and diesel biocide does treat it. prevention is to keep your tanks near full less condensation equals less chance of bug growing. grandad always reckoned if you fuel up at the end of the day you would get less moisture in the tank overnight since moisture makes the algae worse.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Fri, Sep 13, 2019 8:39 PM
neil
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Reply to trainzkid88:
[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, oldbeek.
As I understand it, that 'black sludge is an algae that can grow in diesel fuel and can be stopped with an anti-algal additive.

Just my 0.02.[/quote]

it is a film forming algae. and diesel biocide does treat it. prevention is to keep your tanks near full less condensation equals less chance of bug growing. grandad always reckoned if you fuel up at the end of the day you would get less moisture in the tank overnight since moisture makes the algae worse.
I just use diesel in my diesel and keep the tanks full : ) The local shop does have non-ethanol 87 so I use that in the Briggs lawnmower and my car but still seem to need to replace the plastic Briggs carb every two years.
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Fri, Sep 13, 2019 9:55 PM
sheddcanyon
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Reply to neil:
I just use diesel in my diesel and keep the tanks full : ) The local shop does have non-ethanol 87 so I use that in the Briggs lawnmower and my car but still seem to need to replace the plastic Briggs carb every two years.
Crawler Dollars, I hear you. I've always been skeptical, though. In comparing my experience with other pilots running old radial engines at the time, most were not adding the TCP or the MMO and their engines did not show any excessive wear or other problems. On the other hand, the FAA requires overhauls of aircraft engines at either 1,800 hours or 2000 hours in most instances. So typically aircraft engines are torn down and rebuilt before they have the chance to fail... at least in most instances.😞
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Sat, Sep 14, 2019 12:50 AM
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