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D6 5R Final drive, glow plugs and batteries questions

D6 5R Final drive, glow plugs and batteries questions

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PhilC
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Hello All
I have been using my D6 5r for a few days now but only for about an hour or so. Yesterday I noticed a pool of oil under the right side final drive so I assume one or both of the bellows seals has let go and I need to replace it. According to the workshop manual the machine can be raised enough so that the sprocket will clear the track frame but that would mean a lift of 18 inches or more. Is that what everyone does to remove the sprocket? Genuine seals are priced at over $800 dollars from Cat Australia but General Gear and Machine have them for US$148 each. The parts manual says there are four seals required but I assume that is for both sides. Is there anything else I should look at while the sprockets off? Also how much force is required to remove the sprocket?

I used Old Magnet's info to install a starter motor on the D4600. I had a 12V starter that already had the helical gear but it does not have enough power to turn the motor when the compression lever is turned to run. I have two big batteries connected giving almost 2000 CCA but it is not enough. I have a 24v starter off a D330 that looks like it will bolt on if I change the gear to a helical gear but I don't know if that will be enough. Currently to start the motor from a cold start I have to use the pony motor as it heats the intake manifold but even then it takes a while to pick up. I looked at glow plugs for the precombustion chambers and according to an ebay listing the 1S1970 fits the D4600 but I am not sure if that is correct. I have searched on ACMOC and from other posts it looks like the 1S1970 is for the 9u and 8u engine and then they have to be over a certain serial number to have the correct head. The injectors on the D4600 are massive and to me it looks like there would not be enough room around the outside of the injector for the glow plug even if the injector retaining nuts were replaced with something smaller. The parts manual lists a "Manifold Air Heater Group" that appears to heat fuel as its injected into the manifold but finding all the parts would be near impossible but would a similar system from another engine work?

Lastly for those of you who have installed the electric start option and retained the pilot motor where did you put the batteries? The right side fender has the hydraulics taking up all of it (La Plante Choate version)The left side has a tool box next to the seat that I could remove but that would only provide enough room for one battery.

Also here is a youtube video of the blade speed. This is using a replacement pump that is, I think, very close to the size of the original. How does the speed look? Seems to be about the same as the cable blade, maybe a little slower.
[video]https://youtu.be/Y7pSlo3jk-I[/video]

Regards

Phil
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Sun, Dec 30, 2018 6:03 PM
Old Magnet
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Sprocket press is 30 Ton so it would take all of that and more to remove.
Pay attention to the spline connection between hub and sprocket. They should not bottom out when pressing.
Information out there that you can put glow plugs in the D3400, D4400, D4600 engines is 100% bogus.
2000CCA battery capacity should be more than enough to crank the D4600 even on twelve volt. What is the condition of the starter and are you sure the starter pinion is not running to tight on the ring gear?
Batteries go where ever you can find room, usually have to be fender mounted if your running both pony and DE start.
Blade speed seems about right.
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Mon, Dec 31, 2018 12:10 AM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Sprocket press is 30 Ton so it would take all of that and more to remove.
Pay attention to the spline connection between hub and sprocket. They should not bottom out when pressing.
Information out there that you can put glow plugs in the D3400, D4400, D4600 engines is 100% bogus.
2000CCA battery capacity should be more than enough to crank the D4600 even on twelve volt. What is the condition of the starter and are you sure the starter pinion is not running to tight on the ring gear?
Batteries go where ever you can find room, usually have to be fender mounted if your running both pony and DE start.
Blade speed seems about right.
Hi Phil,
have you checked your final drive bearing adjustment--you MAY get away with it if the bearings are slack--tightening them realigns the seal rubbing surfaces and if you are lucky can stop the leak.
If it is only the outer seal leaking you may get some more time just replacing that one--original bellows for these were brass and known to fatigue fail in the bellows folds.

Are you sure the starter helix gear teeth are the correct cut from memory they can be left or right cut/angled and so they jam in the ring gear teeth if wrong and so are slow turning due to interference loads.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mon, Dec 31, 2018 7:04 AM
PhilC
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Reply to edb:
Hi Phil,
have you checked your final drive bearing adjustment--you MAY get away with it if the bearings are slack--tightening them realigns the seal rubbing surfaces and if you are lucky can stop the leak.
If it is only the outer seal leaking you may get some more time just replacing that one--original bellows for these were brass and known to fatigue fail in the bellows folds.

Are you sure the starter helix gear teeth are the correct cut from memory they can be left or right cut/angled and so they jam in the ring gear teeth if wrong and so are slow turning due to interference loads.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Thanks for the replies.
Old Magnet, I thought that was the case with the D4600 and I was sure I read a thread on ACMOC about it but could not find it. I don't know how effective a glow plug in the intake manifold would be. There are some I have seen that have a glow plug at each manifold port in the head that might be more effective. By "Pay attention to the spline connection between hub and sprocket. They should not bottom out when pressing." do you mean make sure the sprocket is pulled off square and even to prevent damage to the shaft/hub?

The starter meshes perfectly with the ring gear. It is the correct cut helix. The starter motor is very old and may have lost some efficiency. I did get an auto electrician to go over it and I believe he changed the brushes and the solenoid but that is all. It does not sound very healthy when starting. If the 24v starter would start the engine with smaller batteries then they would fit on the fender. What sort of CCA's would be required with a good 24v starter?

Eddie thanks for the tip about the sprocket bearing adjustment. I hope it is that simple but as this machine has been sitting for around 40 years I doubt I will be that lucky😊 The oil is inside the track so I assume it is the inner seal that is leaking. There is no oil running down the outer face of the sprocket.

Regards

Phil
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Mon, Dec 31, 2018 4:59 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PhilC:
Thanks for the replies.
Old Magnet, I thought that was the case with the D4600 and I was sure I read a thread on ACMOC about it but could not find it. I don't know how effective a glow plug in the intake manifold would be. There are some I have seen that have a glow plug at each manifold port in the head that might be more effective. By "Pay attention to the spline connection between hub and sprocket. They should not bottom out when pressing." do you mean make sure the sprocket is pulled off square and even to prevent damage to the shaft/hub?

The starter meshes perfectly with the ring gear. It is the correct cut helix. The starter motor is very old and may have lost some efficiency. I did get an auto electrician to go over it and I believe he changed the brushes and the solenoid but that is all. It does not sound very healthy when starting. If the 24v starter would start the engine with smaller batteries then they would fit on the fender. What sort of CCA's would be required with a good 24v starter?

Eddie thanks for the tip about the sprocket bearing adjustment. I hope it is that simple but as this machine has been sitting for around 40 years I doubt I will be that lucky😊 The oil is inside the track so I assume it is the inner seal that is leaking. There is no oil running down the outer face of the sprocket.

Regards

Phil
Seems you have a tuckered out starter.
Same 1000 CCA batteries, just rigged in series instead of parallel.
Sprocket to hub spline fit should be "A" = 0.09" - 0.16" when pressed.
Attachment
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Tue, Jan 1, 2019 12:10 AM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Seems you have a tuckered out starter.
Same 1000 CCA batteries, just rigged in series instead of parallel.
Sprocket to hub spline fit should be "A" = 0.09" - 0.16" when pressed.
Attachment
Hi Phil,
alas, when these machines sit that long it is not unknown for the cork seal ring to adhere to its steel counterpart and tear when first moved. Sometimes--rarely-- they can heal up if the tear was not too severe.
Fingers Crossed for you.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, Jan 1, 2019 6:38 AM
PhilC
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Reply to edb:
Hi Phil,
alas, when these machines sit that long it is not unknown for the cork seal ring to adhere to its steel counterpart and tear when first moved. Sometimes--rarely-- they can heal up if the tear was not too severe.
Fingers Crossed for you.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Thanks for the info Old Magnet. The starter does not sound good when its turning the main engine. I have been cheating a little. Rather than use the pullrope on the pony I engage the starter pinion, turn the main engine over with the starter and engage the starting engine clutch lever which starts the pony motor😊

Eddie
I cannot see an oil trail when using the machine only when it sits for some time can oil be seen leaking. About a cup of oil leaks out over twenty four hours and slows or stops.

Does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be when running? I am only getting about 12PSI. I used the 266-0889 gauge and it does not leave the red.

Regards

Phil
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Fri, Jan 4, 2019 4:40 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PhilC:
Thanks for the info Old Magnet. The starter does not sound good when its turning the main engine. I have been cheating a little. Rather than use the pullrope on the pony I engage the starter pinion, turn the main engine over with the starter and engage the starting engine clutch lever which starts the pony motor😊

Eddie
I cannot see an oil trail when using the machine only when it sits for some time can oil be seen leaking. About a cup of oil leaks out over twenty four hours and slows or stops.

Does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be when running? I am only getting about 12PSI. I used the 266-0889 gauge and it does not leave the red.

Regards

Phil
Normal operating fuel pressure is 15 psi, 12 psi is good.
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Fri, Jan 4, 2019 11:43 PM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Normal operating fuel pressure is 15 psi, 12 psi is good.
Hi Team,
just to add to the thread for interest sake, data is from tests done at our Dealership as outlined.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Jan 5, 2019 7:51 AM
PhilC
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
just to add to the thread for interest sake, data is from tests done at our Dealership as outlined.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Thanks OM and Eddie.
Does anyone know the part number for a fuel pressure gauge that will show 12-15psi as normal? The one I have shows 15 as the end of the red.

Regards

Phil
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Sun, Jan 6, 2019 5:04 PM
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