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Help please - using my mag drill / annular cutter questions

Help please - using my mag drill / annular cutter questions

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neil
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I drilled out one of the D2's blade mount lug nuts from the track frames yesterday. I picked the broken bolt that had the flattest surface because I suspected that the ones that were broken off in a spiral would be hard to drill. It drilled out pretty well with a 3/8 cutter but that's because I could get the cutter started.

So, my question (Stephen : ) is, how can I get my cutter started on one of those broken bolts with the spiral break / non-flat surface? It appears that the cutter just bounces over the non-flat surface and I can't get it started cutting. The bolts are broken below the surface so I can't get my angle grinder in there. Do I have to get some kind of a narrow grinder on the end of my cordless drill and flatten it down some? I do have an end mill of the right size that I could use but I'd expect that to bounce off the lip too. My mag drill is constant speed but I rigged it so I can plumb a variable speed controller in there. I'd guesstimate it slows it down from its 600rpm to maybe 300. Still not slow enough I think.

These broken bolts are in there good. I have plenty of experience with the weld-a-nut on techniques but they're not even close to cutting it here. So I have to drill them out. I could go back to using the hand-drill but that's hard work and I have ten to do...

Thoughts?
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Mon, Jul 23, 2018 7:54 PM
Norm R2,22
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There is a spring loaded pin to center the cutter, used to line up in a center punch divot. Could you replace it with a piece of cold rolled? If you drill a center hole in the bolt and stick the cold rolled into it to keep everything aligned the cutter wouldn't walk around. Another possibility would be to use an end mill in the mag drill first, to make the bolt into a flat surface. You would have to take light cuts. You could also clamp a guide plate over the bolt to keep the cutter aligned.
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Mon, Jul 23, 2018 10:26 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Norm R2,22:
There is a spring loaded pin to center the cutter, used to line up in a center punch divot. Could you replace it with a piece of cold rolled? If you drill a center hole in the bolt and stick the cold rolled into it to keep everything aligned the cutter wouldn't walk around. Another possibility would be to use an end mill in the mag drill first, to make the bolt into a flat surface. You would have to take light cuts. You could also clamp a guide plate over the bolt to keep the cutter aligned.
I'd go at it with a "Flat Cutter Cylindrical" carbide bur in a die grinder to knock down to a flat surface then follow up with carbide drill or cutter. (McMaster)
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Mon, Jul 23, 2018 10:33 PM
Sparky30-06
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I'd go at it with a "Flat Cutter Cylindrical" carbide bur in a die grinder to knock down to a flat surface then follow up with carbide drill or cutter. (McMaster)
have had to per drill a 1/4" hole and use the spin loaded pin to hold the mag drill from walking around several times. Just be careful cause she will still want to jump and walk until the cut is started.
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 12:48 AM
neil
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Reply to Sparky30-06:
have had to per drill a 1/4" hole and use the spin loaded pin to hold the mag drill from walking around several times. Just be careful cause she will still want to jump and walk until the cut is started.
How hard can I lean into the cutter to get it started? Obviously the mag base is a limit but can I "kind of wail on it". I picked up a Dremel cylindrical cutter just now and will flatten one off and give it a shot. Only have one shot because if I blunt the cutter, it's a week before I can get them back sharpened.
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 1:29 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to neil:
How hard can I lean into the cutter to get it started? Obviously the mag base is a limit but can I "kind of wail on it". I picked up a Dremel cylindrical cutter just now and will flatten one off and give it a shot. Only have one shot because if I blunt the cutter, it's a week before I can get them back sharpened.
For the really tough ones I've installed a drill bushing in a plate tack welded in position to guide the drill bit. Works for standard drill bits (cobalt) but if carbide it needs to be solid carbide of solid diameter, not the stepped versions that just have carbide tips installed in a reduced shank shaft.
That's not really a job for an annular cutter unless your reboring to a larger size.
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 2:08 AM
DWC7
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Reply to Old Magnet:
For the really tough ones I've installed a drill bushing in a plate tack welded in position to guide the drill bit. Works for standard drill bits (cobalt) but if carbide it needs to be solid carbide of solid diameter, not the stepped versions that just have carbide tips installed in a reduced shank shaft.
That's not really a job for an annular cutter unless your reboring to a larger size.
Question>? why not just center punch it and use a standard twist drill. Thats what i use for drilling out all bolts. I understand the cutters cut better but for such a small hole just use a twist drill. Also i use a pointed burr to grind a hole in the middle if i cant get a good center punch. But on that small of a hole depending on how far down it is a center punch may be the only option.
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 2:47 AM
neil
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Reply to DWC7:
Question>? why not just center punch it and use a standard twist drill. Thats what i use for drilling out all bolts. I understand the cutters cut better but for such a small hole just use a twist drill. Also i use a pointed burr to grind a hole in the middle if i cant get a good center punch. But on that small of a hole depending on how far down it is a center punch may be the only option.
Mostly because I want to remove most of the 3/4" bolt rather than just take a small hole in the middle so the cutter is more efficient for that. Plus also I want to get this down so that I'm doing it "properly" the next time. I drilled out the brake anchor retaining pin which is about 8" long with a set of twist drills and I don't want to go through that experience again : ). To be fair though, these broken blade mount bolts are only about an inch and a half long.
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 3:11 AM
DWC7
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Reply to neil:
Mostly because I want to remove most of the 3/4" bolt rather than just take a small hole in the middle so the cutter is more efficient for that. Plus also I want to get this down so that I'm doing it "properly" the next time. I drilled out the brake anchor retaining pin which is about 8" long with a set of twist drills and I don't want to go through that experience again : ). To be fair though, these broken blade mount bolts are only about an inch and a half long.


Do you have a 2" cutter? Wasn't sure what size they were i thought you werent drilling but a 3/8" hole. Thats only thing bad about annular cutters they are just to short sometimes.
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 3:14 AM
neil
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Reply to DWC7:


Do you have a 2" cutter? Wasn't sure what size they were i thought you werent drilling but a 3/8" hole. Thats only thing bad about annular cutters they are just to short sometimes.
I have a set from 1/2 up to 2", all at 2" long. I bought them with the cheap mag drill. They seem to run alright not that I'm an expert but I drilled out the 3/4 bolt fairly easily (once it started cutting)
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 6:17 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to neil:
I have a set from 1/2 up to 2", all at 2" long. I bought them with the cheap mag drill. They seem to run alright not that I'm an expert but I drilled out the 3/4 bolt fairly easily (once it started cutting)
Neil,
first about your add on motor speed reducer. If the electro-magnet base gets reduced voltage, will it clamp hard enough?
An annular cutter should be able to start on an angled surface. Is it sharp? I have had some success sharpening offhand with a bench grinder. I have also got good service from the guy at sharpenmyannularcutter.com
Like someone suggested, a carbide bur can be used to square the end. I have also used a bur to correct an off center hole to draw the final drill back to center.
I have used a welding electrode called " extractalloy" to weld down to a subsurface stud prior to welding on a washer & nut.
If you have a 4 flute carbide endmil, chuck it in the mag drill, that will get out what is too hard for a HHS cutter.
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Tue, Jul 24, 2018 9:17 AM
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