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Reviving another old relic - D9G

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6 years 5 months ago #184745 by Misterskill
Hey guys. First post.

Recently became the owner of 66A series D9G. She's pretty rough and ready but pretty well complete.

Been stuffing around checking things and topping up oils. got it started the other week, for the first time in about 5 years.

Nutting it out slowly, and managed to get a copy of the operator books. But still might have a few questions along the way.



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6 years 5 months ago #184748 by Andrew
Congratulations on your acquisition.
Keep us updated.

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6 years 5 months ago #184751 by d9gdon
That's a nice first pick. They were one of the best dozers that Cat ever produced. They were usually cannabalized for parts when parked. Was it a station machine in the recent past or at a quarry?

Good job on getting it running.

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6 years 5 months ago #185352 by Misterskill

That's a nice first pick. They were one of the best dozers that Cat ever produced. They were usually cannabalized for parts when parked. Was it a station machine in the recent past or at a quarry?

Good job on getting it running.


I hope so! new gauges, drained the fuel system, changed all the filters, New diesel, cleaned the points and the pony motor started up straight away (however needle and seat and gone so fuel control is done with the tap at the top). Cracked an injector line bled the fuel line and off she went!

It was brought up here in the 70's or early 80s for opal mining. Moved a lot of dirt in it's time but it seems to have been well maintained. Had a few bits robbed (gauges and some air cleaner bases that seem to be as rare as hen's teeth) but apart from that surprisingly in tact. Was parked up about 7 years ago and i found it at the start of this year and had to have it.

Washed the final drives on the weekend (no metal!) and refilled with new oil, did the engine oil, topped up the recoil spring and started on the track adjustment before we ran out of grease and daylight haha

Goes back and forward no worries, decelerator works, blade is very rough and needs the bottom half re-skinned, but goes up and down (tilts too, but that ram seal is shot). rippers are alright and move well.

I can turn if i pull the steering clutch in and press the corresponding brake but i'm not sure if the clutches are working 100%. If you pull the clutches they "spring back" i figure this is a good sign.

If i put it in gear with both clutches engaged the tractor goes forward, is this correct? i'm hearing conflicting opinions on this.

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6 years 5 months ago #185355 by old-iron-habit

I hope so! new gauges, drained the fuel system, changed all the filters, New diesel, cleaned the points and the pony motor started up straight away (however needle and seat and gone so fuel control is done with the tap at the top). Cracked an injector line bled the fuel line and off she went!

It was brought up here in the 70's or early 80s for opal mining. Moved a lot of dirt in it's time but it seems to have been well maintained. Had a few bits robbed (gauges and some air cleaner bases that seem to be as rare as hen's teeth) but apart from that surprisingly in tact. Was parked up about 7 years ago and i found it at the start of this year and had to have it.

Washed the final drives on the weekend (no metal!) and refilled with new oil, did the engine oil, topped up the recoil spring and started on the track adjustment before we ran out of grease and daylight haha

Goes back and forward no worries, decelerator works, blade is very rough and needs the bottom half re-skinned, but goes up and down (tilts too, but that ram seal is shot). rippers are alright and move well.

I can turn if i pull the steering clutch in and press the corresponding brake but i'm not sure if the clutches are working 100%. If you pull the clutches they "spring back" i figure this is a good sign.

If i put it in gear with both clutches engaged the tractor goes forward, is this correct? i'm hearing conflicting opinions on this.


It should go forward if in a forward gear with both steering clutches engaged. Pulling them both should stop it although it may try to creep from oil friction until it gets warmed up.

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6 years 5 months ago #185379 by d9gdon
Yes, and the steering and brake functions are not combined on them like the later dozers so you have to pull the steering clutch lever and step on the brake to turn.

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6 years 5 months ago #185401 by Misterskill
Sounds like it's all good then!

How about walking these old girls? We've got to walk it home, it's about 6km or 4 miles. I was going drive it to a mate's place about half-way the first day and then do the second leg the next day.

Is it forward and reverse the same as an excavator? I've also heard they don't like going a long way in reverse due to the pumps not moving the oils around as effectively.

Thanks

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6 years 5 months ago #185435 by Deas Plant.
Replied by Deas Plant. on topic Walking the beast.
Hi, Misterskill.
Congratulations on your acquisition. The D9G has been one of my favourite machines from the first time In operated one back in 1965. Walk it 4 miles? you could do that in under 2 hours in second gear at not much more than 1/2 throttle. Aside from the lubrication issue, walking backwards is harder on the tracks than walking forwards.

No, it is not forward and reverse like an excavator. You have 3 speeds each in forward and reverse but 3rd gear either way increases track wear dramatically, especially in reverse - not recommended.

Quote:
"If i put it in gear with both clutches engaged the tractor goes forward, is this correct? i'm hearing conflicting opinions on this."
Unquote.

Seems like someone doesn't know what they are talking about. Those steering clutches are for steering only, not for controlling whether the machine moves or not. Yes, if you pull both of them back at the same time, it will stop, especially if under load. As Old Iron Habit said, it may try to creep when unloaded and with cold oils due to oil viscosity between the clutch plates. There is very little clearance between these clutch plates when they are disengaged.

The tractor will even go in whatever direction you place the transmission control lever with one steering clutch disengaged although it may turn slowly toward the disengaged side. The steering brakes are for slowing or stopping a track when the steering clutch is disengaged to enable sharper turns. I personally prefer where practicable to use the steering brakes gently and make longer, slower turns to spare the walking gear and save churning the landscape up more than necessary. Some people just make sharp turns all the time simply 'cos they can - not my style.

Happy playing.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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6 years 5 months ago #185479 by old-iron-habit
Just one more item. The steering clutches should be a steady fairly quick pull in and when done turning released quickly out. Do not try to control a turn by slipping them.

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6 years 5 months ago #185509 by Deas Plant.
Replied by Deas Plant. on topic Controlling Turns.
Hi, Misterskill.
Further to O-I-H's post above, if you do need to control a turn, pull the steering clutch control briefly and let it go, then pull it again so that you turn in small increments rather than trying to make a long, slow turn by slipping the clutch.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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