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Cotter pins in rod nuta d4400, whats the trick???

Cotter pins in rod nuta d4400, whats the trick???

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WA7OPY
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How do you get the cotter pins into the rod bolts and nut on the back side?The pan and belly plate are still on the cat. I have used a fiber scope to line up the holes close, hard to get a good spot to look. Rolled the rod down and tried to install the key thru the other hole and reaching under the main , tried long reach pliers thru rod hole, , I have a brass rod that has a bend at the end to try the hole to check the alignment.Will slide in 1/2 way, don't want to back off nut, but it is close but cant find a sweet spot to push the key in. Tried a metric 3 mm key .118 instead of .125 key, didn't help. Just cant seem to get them to slide in. The front nuts are easy, any idea,s Thanks....WA7OPY
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Fri, Mar 30, 2018 6:14 AM
oldbeek
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Not sure but soundalike a place for stainless aircraft safety wire.
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Fri, Mar 30, 2018 7:58 AM
WA7OPY
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Reply to oldbeek:
Not sure but soundalike a place for stainless aircraft safety wire.
I thought about safety wire, but going up and down 1200 times a min I wanted something tight so it didn't file its self apart....WA7OPY
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Fri, Mar 30, 2018 9:15 AM
ccjersey
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There is no shame in backing the nut off slightly to align the selected hole with the castellated nut. You do not want to back off from the measured torque to get to the nearest available hole but instead go tighter to reach it. However when you reach the hole, by all means adjust the position of the nut as needed to get the key in.

Note there are usually?/sometimes 2 holes drilled in the end of the bolt at 90 degrees to each other, so you do not have to advance the nut as far as if there is only a single hole.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Mar 30, 2018 7:57 PM
WA7OPY
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Reply to ccjersey:
There is no shame in backing the nut off slightly to align the selected hole with the castellated nut. You do not want to back off from the measured torque to get to the nearest available hole but instead go tighter to reach it. However when you reach the hole, by all means adjust the position of the nut as needed to get the key in.

Note there are usually?/sometimes 2 holes drilled in the end of the bolt at 90 degrees to each other, so you do not have to advance the nut as far as if there is only a single hole.
After 3 more hours my big hands just don't reach in far enough to get it done. I removed the back nuts on the rods, machined .200 from the castle end and put the nuts back on. I then machined 4 grade 8 nuts down to .200 wide and used them like a pell or jam nut with a little blue thread locker. Did nt want to change the cat engineering but just could not get the cotter pins in....WA7OPY
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Sat, Mar 31, 2018 5:11 AM
jstandle
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Reply to WA7OPY:
After 3 more hours my big hands just don't reach in far enough to get it done. I removed the back nuts on the rods, machined .200 from the castle end and put the nuts back on. I then machined 4 grade 8 nuts down to .200 wide and used them like a pell or jam nut with a little blue thread locker. Did nt want to change the cat engineering but just could not get the cotter pins in....WA7OPY
How did you get them out in the beginning?

Jordan
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Sat, Mar 31, 2018 5:22 AM
edb
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Reply to jstandle:
How did you get them out in the beginning?

Jordan
Hi Team,
somewhere I have an article from Cat about these pesky pins.---see scan below.

Back in the forties they experimented with leaving out the pins as it is the stretch of the bolt shank that keeps tension on the nut etc. that keeps the nut from undoing.
Complaints were received from Dealers about the missing pins so they started to refit them until such time as new models of engines were designed and no provision for the pins was used.
From the Service Manual, and as I was taught, it is permissible to advance or slightly undo a correctly torqued nut to align the pin holes, as CCJ said advancing is preferable.

Now we Torque Turn the fasteners and they seem not to come loose if done correctly.
As a by the way, in some applications the actual bolt stretch (length increase) is measured as a guide to correct tension being applied.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Mar 31, 2018 6:18 AM
drujinin
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
somewhere I have an article from Cat about these pesky pins.---see scan below.

Back in the forties they experimented with leaving out the pins as it is the stretch of the bolt shank that keeps tension on the nut etc. that keeps the nut from undoing.
Complaints were received from Dealers about the missing pins so they started to refit them until such time as new models of engines were designed and no provision for the pins was used.
From the Service Manual, and as I was taught, it is permissible to advance or slightly undo a correctly torqued nut to align the pin holes, as CCJ said advancing is preferable.

Now we Torque Turn the fasteners and they seem not to come loose if done correctly.
As a by the way, in some applications the actual bolt stretch (length increase) is measured as a guide to correct tension being applied.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Last one I did I probably fiddled at least a 1/2hr each trying to remember how I got that particular one out so as I could put this one in! 😞
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Sat, Mar 31, 2018 7:10 AM
WA7OPY
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Reply to jstandle:
How did you get them out in the beginning?

Jordan
[QUOTE=jstandle;203486]How did you get them out in the beginning?

Jordan[/Q

It was not to hard to remove them, ground a point on a long screw driver to fit the eye and used one more to bend the flag straight. Used a harbor freight blue light( the ones that are free gifts)to light the hole. I then bent a 13/16-7/8 offset box end and turned the nuts on click at a time. Just could not push the cotterpin back in the back bolt....WA7OPY
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Sat, Mar 31, 2018 8:28 AM
WA7OPY
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Reply to WA7OPY:
[QUOTE=jstandle;203486]How did you get them out in the beginning?

Jordan[/Q

It was not to hard to remove them, ground a point on a long screw driver to fit the eye and used one more to bend the flag straight. Used a harbor freight blue light( the ones that are free gifts)to light the hole. I then bent a 13/16-7/8 offset box end and turned the nuts on click at a time. Just could not push the cotterpin back in the back bolt....WA7OPY
Thanks for the info, I have seen a lot of engines without any locking devices but it didn't seem right not to put back what it came with. Its like having leftover parts when you rebuild something.... not a good sign....WA7OPY
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Sat, Mar 31, 2018 8:37 AM
jstandle
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Reply to WA7OPY:
[QUOTE=jstandle;203486]How did you get them out in the beginning?

Jordan[/Q

It was not to hard to remove them, ground a point on a long screw driver to fit the eye and used one more to bend the flag straight. Used a harbor freight blue light( the ones that are free gifts)to light the hole. I then bent a 13/16-7/8 offset box end and turned the nuts on click at a time. Just could not push the cotterpin back in the back bolt....WA7OPY
[QUOTE=WA7OPY;203493][quote="jstandle"]How did you get them out in the beginning?

Jordan[/Q

It was not to hard to remove them, ground a point on a long screw driver to fit the eye and used one more to bend the flag straight. Used a harbor freight blue light( the ones that are free gifts)to light the hole. I then bent a 13/16-7/8 offset box end and turned the nuts on click at a time. Just could not push the cotterpin back in the back bolt....WA7OPY[/quote]

Interesting, I really thought getting them out would have been the hardest part.

Jordan
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Sat, Mar 31, 2018 11:39 AM
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