will a trach shop turn my pins

In this Thread to get an idea of what/why.
http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?29342-Any-D2-Aftermarket-Tracks-Available

A good Track Shop is going to ask how many hours are on them to determine if they are worn past the point of usefulness.
If you are willing to take the time to haul them in and look at them, they will be able to give you a better answer.

If the Rails themselves are within wear limits and the parts are still available for replacement, they may be able to install new P&B's.

How do you know they will need turning in the summer and not now?

[quote="drujinin"]In this Thread to get an idea of what/why.
http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?29342-Any-D2-Aftermarket-Tracks-Available

A good Track Shop is going to ask how many hours are on them to determine if they are worn past the point of usefulness.
If you are willing to take the time to haul them in and look at them, they will be able to give you a better answer.

If the Rails themselves are within wear limits and the parts are still available for replacement, they may be able to install new P&B's.

How do you know they will need turning in the summer and not now?[/quote]


Thanks. i estimate they will need turned this summer by anticipating how many hours i will put on the machine before then. i know the pins and bushings haven't been turned yet and i have measured the rails. so in X number of hours the pins and bushings "should" need to be turned could be sooner could be later but a turn is getting close. i just don't know if modern tooling will service these old tracks. it may be more cost effective to just replace with new.

Its no good just measuring the rails to determine if you need a bush turn, you need the measure the stretch, centre to centre, over 4 links (5 pins) and the OD of the bushes at the most worn point.
Give us the link part number and the measurements and we can work it out.

Its no good just measuring the rails to determine if you need a bush turn, you need the measure the stretch, centre to centre, over 4 links (5 pins) and the OD of the bushes at the most worn point.
Give us the link part number and the measurements and we can work it out.

I bought a 40A D4 a few years back, it needed P&B but the rails were not worth it so I bought a new set of rails. The positive side was I ended up with a alligator master link, the negative was all rails I found came with 5/8" pad bolt holes opposed to the stock 1/2". We had to drill ( in this case we used a bridge reamer) all the pad holes in order to use the same pads on the new rails. A reamer works best in this case as it does not hang up like a drill bit, we did all the holes with one reamer and plenty of cutting oil. My point is if you decide on new rails only you may be faced with the same, just an extra chore to deal with, not impossible.

thanks. sounds like i may be in the same position as you. unless i purchase ne track assembly i will need to drill the pads. thanks for the "bridge reamer idea" what brand of rails did you get? did they work with the D4 bottom rollers and sprockets?

ITR rails, they are grease filled and are quiet so far, yes they work with the rollers and sprockets. They come with the master pads as they have a different bolt pattern.

would you remember the part number???

thanks. sounds like i may be in the same position as you. unless i purchase ne track assembly i will need to drill the pads. thanks for the "bridge reamer idea" what brand of rails did you get? did they work with the D4 bottom rollers and sprockets?