No that starter will not work. You will need the RH helical 11 or 12 tooth drive. The drive end housing needs to be 4" length from the flywheel housing mounting flange to the tip of the DEH. The DEH also needs to be the 145 degree indexed throat to clear the flywheel.
Darn! Thanks Old Magnet.
D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.
could you access the PTO from the rear? make a plate with a shaft and bearing support then either bar it from there or connect to the pto of another tractor to get it free?
That’s an interesting idea. Unfortunately, (and not unfortunately, since it comes with the machine) it has a D6N winch on it. Also, no mechanical advantage like you would have with the flywheel ring gear and starter pinion.
Is there any way to get a large pipe wrench on the front of the crankshaft? I don't know details of a D318 but I once helped get a wrench on a D432 to confirm it was stuck. The wrench we used also had a cheater pipe so we were able to apply a few good foot pounds on to the shaft. It did not have a belly pan on it which made it possible.
JanM
D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.
i have a neighbor who uses a dummy injector as a port to use the hydraulic remote from his tractor to free up stuck engines.
It has a belly pan. I wouldn’t be able to get a wrench on the front, but what are your guys thought on engaging the clutch, if I can, and using a wrench or a bar on the universal? I don’t have access to hydraulics and I would be afraid of damaging something with pressure like that. What do guys think of using grease instead? It sure would be messy and difficult getting it out.
Is there any way to get a pry bar on the ring gear? (Carefully)
I can go through the starter hole, but I’m very concerned about breaking teeth. I think I will use that (gently) as a last resort.