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Making a KOO bar starter

Making a KOO bar starter

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Catboy1
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Hey guys,
I’ve got a line on a 9u parts dozer. It hasn’t run in about 30 years. I’ve spent a couple of days and gotten the pony free, the electric starter fixed and the mag fixed to the point where the pony will fire, but not quite run. A bit of carb work will fix that I hope. The d318 is not free as far as I can tell. Both exhausts were covered. I have a really old starter that I will post pics of. I’m not sure what the numbers on the tag mean, but I’m hoping to make a bar starter to break the main engine free. Could someone please tell me if this starter will work, or if not, is there any thing I can do to make it work? Thanks for your help. I’ll get some pictures of the parts machine next time I’m there. [attachment=45835]52EB3ED0-D5CC-4153-ADFA-1B6EB5994167.jpg[/attachment][attachment=45834]EDF7219D-800B-4CBF-9D28-F6753E94B078.jpg[/attachment][attachment=45833]A363148C-ABF3-469E-AF3D-90E50790496D.jpg[/attachment][attachment=45832]5CC2D269-CE1D-485E-BFFA-796A2197656D.jpg[/attachment][attachment=45831]F26AF41E-C3E4-4D84-A314-159C0B599AD9.jpg[/attachment][ATTACH=CONFIG]72279[/ATTACH)
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Fri, Dec 1, 2017 2:23 AM
Old Magnet
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No that starter will not work. You will need the RH helical 11 or 12 tooth drive. The drive end housing needs to be 4" length from the flywheel housing mounting flange to the tip of the DEH. The DEH also needs to be the 145 degree indexed throat to clear the flywheel.
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Fri, Dec 1, 2017 2:50 AM
Catboy1
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Reply to Old Magnet:
No that starter will not work. You will need the RH helical 11 or 12 tooth drive. The drive end housing needs to be 4" length from the flywheel housing mounting flange to the tip of the DEH. The DEH also needs to be the 145 degree indexed throat to clear the flywheel.
Darn! Thanks Old Magnet.
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Fri, Dec 1, 2017 2:53 AM
bursitis
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Reply to Catboy1:
Darn! Thanks Old Magnet.
could you access the PTO from the rear? make a plate with a shaft and bearing support then either bar it from there or connect to the pto of another tractor to get it free?

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

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Fri, Dec 1, 2017 9:02 AM
Catboy1
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Reply to bursitis:
could you access the PTO from the rear? make a plate with a shaft and bearing support then either bar it from there or connect to the pto of another tractor to get it free?
That’s an interesting idea. Unfortunately, (and not unfortunately, since it comes with the machine) it has a D6N winch on it. Also, no mechanical advantage like you would have with the flywheel ring gear and starter pinion.
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Fri, Dec 1, 2017 9:43 AM
janmeermans
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Reply to Catboy1:
That’s an interesting idea. Unfortunately, (and not unfortunately, since it comes with the machine) it has a D6N winch on it. Also, no mechanical advantage like you would have with the flywheel ring gear and starter pinion.
Is there any way to get a large pipe wrench on the front of the crankshaft? I don't know details of a D318 but I once helped get a wrench on a D432 to confirm it was stuck. The wrench we used also had a cheater pipe so we were able to apply a few good foot pounds on to the shaft. It did not have a belly pan on it which made it possible.

JanM
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Sun, Dec 3, 2017 9:20 AM
bursitis
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Reply to janmeermans:
Is there any way to get a large pipe wrench on the front of the crankshaft? I don't know details of a D318 but I once helped get a wrench on a D432 to confirm it was stuck. The wrench we used also had a cheater pipe so we were able to apply a few good foot pounds on to the shaft. It did not have a belly pan on it which made it possible.

JanM
i have a neighbor who uses a dummy injector as a port to use the hydraulic remote from his tractor to free up stuck engines.

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

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Sun, Dec 3, 2017 9:08 PM
Catboy1
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Reply to bursitis:
i have a neighbor who uses a dummy injector as a port to use the hydraulic remote from his tractor to free up stuck engines.
It has a belly pan. I wouldn’t be able to get a wrench on the front, but what are your guys thought on engaging the clutch, if I can, and using a wrench or a bar on the universal? I don’t have access to hydraulics and I would be afraid of damaging something with pressure like that. What do guys think of using grease instead? It sure would be messy and difficult getting it out.
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Mon, Dec 4, 2017 11:15 AM
8C 361
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Reply to Catboy1:
It has a belly pan. I wouldn’t be able to get a wrench on the front, but what are your guys thought on engaging the clutch, if I can, and using a wrench or a bar on the universal? I don’t have access to hydraulics and I would be afraid of damaging something with pressure like that. What do guys think of using grease instead? It sure would be messy and difficult getting it out.
Is there any way to get a pry bar on the ring gear? (Carefully)
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Mon, Dec 4, 2017 8:16 PM
Catboy1
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Reply to 8C 361:
Is there any way to get a pry bar on the ring gear? (Carefully)
I can go through the starter hole, but I’m very concerned about breaking teeth. I think I will use that (gently) as a last resort.
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Tue, Dec 5, 2017 12:06 AM
Ray54
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Reply to Catboy1:
I can go through the starter hole, but I’m very concerned about breaking teeth. I think I will use that (gently) as a last resort.
If no front mounted attachments should be able to put a socket on the front of the crank. You can slide it in from front as there is a whole in the casting that connects the frame rails that lines up with the crank


If it has the 46 or what ever the Cat pump on is in a hard nose,there is a smaller plate that should give access to the pump drive. The universal joints need to be greased and this is the access rather than removing the whole belly pan.

Upon rereading your opening you don't say if wet or dry clutch but ether can be turned from the rear of engine.
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Tue, Dec 5, 2017 12:50 AM
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