Hello,

I'm getting things in order to remove the oil pan to replace my liner seals in my 1942 D2 5J. I don't like working under anything heavy relying only on hydraulic jacks, plus the jack in the case would be annoying to work around. My plan is to build metal braces that bolt to the side of the motor to support it. Is this point on the machine strong enough to support the nose while I work on it? If so, is one sufficient or should I put one on both sides or is this all together a bad idea? Image attached below;



Thanks!
Jordan

Should be plenty strong if you have a couple bolts in it .

One would probably be fine, but two would make me feel better if I was under there.

In the interest of clearance while working under it, I might get a good solid fence post or 6x6 and lay across the tracks to rest the front of the tractor on. That might have it cocked up in the air too much nose high for convenience, but you might appreciate the clearance.

The serviceman's reference book shows how to prepare for engine removal (getting equalizer spring out first just like you need to do). They recommend putting the rear of the tracks up on 12" blocks and then lifting the engine until it is level with the ground. This allows the removal of the spring and greatly increases working clearance under the engine.

Thanks, that's where I'm at now. I backed up on 8-10" or so of blocks. I don't think the equalizer has to come out, just lifted up enough that the pan can drop down and clear (I think that is what the manual said). The way I've got it setup I'm lifting the nose a good foot or more. But, if the equalizer can just be slipped out once the nose is up I might as well just take it out instead of working around it especially since I've got to take the pistons/rods out the bottom.



Thanks!
Jordan

You will want to take the Equalizer Spring out for Oil Pump pickup clearance (if I remember correctly?) plus the pan will be easier to re-align when it goes back in. While it is out look at the Rub Pads to see if they need to be built back up. Good time as any to fix them up!

If you have rafters overhead - you can wrap a sling around the pan come up around the sides of the engine (could use a spreader Bar) this would make it easier to lower the pan and raise the heavy pan up. Bob

"drujinin" wrote:

You will want to take the Equalizer Spring out for Oil Pump pickup clearance (if I remember correctly?) plus the pan will be easier to re-align when it goes back in. While it is out look at the Rub Pads to see if they need to be built back up. Good time as any to fix them up!

this is correct. u gotta remove bar so the pan drops low enough to clear the pump screen, when the pan is on the floor to pull it forward outa the way. pump with pickup hang down x amount inches below block pan flange.

"restore49" wrote:

If you have rafters overhead - you can wrap a sling around the pan come up around the sides of the engine (could use a spreader Bar) this would make it easier to lower the pan and raise the heavy pan up. Bob

I have used ratchet straps hooked onto the tracks and under the pan to lower and raise it.

Thanks for all the advise. Anyone have a rough idea how heavy the pan is on the D3400?

Thanks,
Jordan

Can guarantee it will hurt like a son of a gun when it lands on your toes.

App. 60-80 lbs