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New member, old Cat

New member, old Cat

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Rustbucket
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Hi all,

New guy here, just got a 1947 D2 4U. It had been sitting for 10 years according to the daughter of the old owner, I think maybe it was a bit longer than that.

[attachment=44419]36899861275_806ea92621_z_d.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=44420]36760179581_9390737388_z_d.jpg[/attachment]

Here it is being loaded last night:

[video]https://youtu.be/VJd_1iSZntk[/video]


I don't know much about these old tractors, luckily my neighbor used to have a D4 and knows a whole bunch. I got a manual for it.
Hopefully this weekend I'll see what condition the pony motor is in and go from there!
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 2:19 AM
Mike Meyer
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Welcome Rustbucket, looks like a nice straight D2 to me, well done, you will have a lot of fun with that tractor for sure, plus you are obviously no dummy like me and can upload pictures and youtube movies easily so that is always impressive.

When you get a chance put your approximate location in your box so folks know where on the planet you are.
Good luck
Mike
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 3:21 AM
mog5858
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Welcome Rustbucket, looks like a nice straight D2 to me, well done, you will have a lot of fun with that tractor for sure, plus you are obviously no dummy like me and can upload pictures and youtube movies easily so that is always impressive.

When you get a chance put your approximate location in your box so folks know where on the planet you are.
Good luck
Mike
good job on saving the old cat as she looks like she still has some work left in her. you get bonus points for have video and pics both. hears to lost of fun to come.
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 7:34 AM
drujinin
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Reply to mog5858:
good job on saving the old cat as she looks like she still has some work left in her. you get bonus points for have video and pics both. hears to lost of fun to come.
Didn't watch video yet but did you happen to pull the steering clutch levers back to see if the clutches are free?
Remove all the drain plugs underneath to see how much condensation has built up in the oils, after you totally drain and refill the pony oil with oil.
Nice to not be pumping watery oil through the engine!
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 6:28 PM
ccjersey
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Good advice so far, and I will add my two bits worth!

Its easy to get wrapped up in all the pony motor issues and when you finally get it to turn the diesel, just throw the decompression lever to run and give it some fuel.........and have it overspeed because the rack is stuck!

Before you start that process think about what you will do to stop it if it doesn't respond to the governor. The quickest way is to pull the decompression lever back to the start/decompressed position, but on other engines without decompression mechanisms you may have to cut off air or fuel. Fuel can take a LONG time to run out when you are standing next to a potential grenade! You don't want to have to use your hand to cut off air so have something at hand and the precleaner already removed from the air filter stack etc.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Aug 30, 2017 9:42 PM
Rustbucket
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Reply to ccjersey:
Good advice so far, and I will add my two bits worth!

Its easy to get wrapped up in all the pony motor issues and when you finally get it to turn the diesel, just throw the decompression lever to run and give it some fuel.........and have it overspeed because the rack is stuck!

Before you start that process think about what you will do to stop it if it doesn't respond to the governor. The quickest way is to pull the decompression lever back to the start/decompressed position, but on other engines without decompression mechanisms you may have to cut off air or fuel. Fuel can take a LONG time to run out when you are standing next to a potential grenade! You don't want to have to use your hand to cut off air so have something at hand and the precleaner already removed from the air filter stack etc.
Thanks!

I thought the gas tank was empty as there was no flow out of the inline filter when I pulled it off with the fuel tap open. Unfortunately this turned out not to be the case, there was some nasty old fuel in there and a solid layer of crap on the bottom of the tank and solid deposit all the way down the line to the tap. Working on clearing it all out but I broke one of the lines near the tap trying to remove it.

The carb is a 5F3527 but has the horizontal high speed adjustment of the 5F8248, cleaning up ok in the ultrasonic cleaner, I'm not going to drill out the solder plugs to clean the passages at this point.

I tried to pull the heads off but there's not enough clearance between the studs and the fenders/brackets. I was able to see a layer of rusty residue at the lowest point of each cylinder, I think it will clean up with a flex hone but this scuppers my plan to just clean things up this week to see if it will start this weekend.

Draining the oil I got approx 1 cup of clean water out first.

I'm torn now between removing the head studs to get the heads clear, clean the cylinders and at least get the pony crank turning, or just pull it off completely and get the pistons out and clean the ring grooves so as not to cause more damage.
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Sat, Sep 2, 2017 1:57 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to Rustbucket:
Thanks!

I thought the gas tank was empty as there was no flow out of the inline filter when I pulled it off with the fuel tap open. Unfortunately this turned out not to be the case, there was some nasty old fuel in there and a solid layer of crap on the bottom of the tank and solid deposit all the way down the line to the tap. Working on clearing it all out but I broke one of the lines near the tap trying to remove it.

The carb is a 5F3527 but has the horizontal high speed adjustment of the 5F8248, cleaning up ok in the ultrasonic cleaner, I'm not going to drill out the solder plugs to clean the passages at this point.

I tried to pull the heads off but there's not enough clearance between the studs and the fenders/brackets. I was able to see a layer of rusty residue at the lowest point of each cylinder, I think it will clean up with a flex hone but this scuppers my plan to just clean things up this week to see if it will start this weekend.

Draining the oil I got approx 1 cup of clean water out first.

I'm torn now between removing the head studs to get the heads clear, clean the cylinders and at least get the pony crank turning, or just pull it off completely and get the pistons out and clean the ring grooves so as not to cause more damage.
Hi Rustbucket, My advice is if you have the carb off the pilot motor then clean those cross passages, it will only add 30 minutes to the job and you will thank me later, particularly if your fuel system has been full of crud, don't forget to clean the gas tank really well too because those pilot motors will drive a man to drinking too much when they play up which can be often. Check that flywheel on the pilot motor for slop, they all have a bit, too much will suggest pulling the pistons out is a good idea but if the pulley is pretty snug I'd be tempted to leave the heads on and go for a second crankcase oil flush after you have run the pilot motor for a few minutes and got it warm, keep it simple right now because opening a engine up can open a Pandora's Box that didn't need opening.

I suggest you service the magneto too while you have the carb off, most those maggies need the bearings greased and yours will not have been done since the 1950's I'd suggest, the grease will be long dried up and if you plan on using the crawler regularly you don't want any headaches with the pilot motor, go the extra yard now for 10-20 years trouble free service. Those pilots will run happy as a clam on 30 lbs compression and burning a pint of oil a week, but they will not even start with a crap magneto or blocked carb passages.
Good luck
Mike
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Sat, Sep 2, 2017 3:04 AM
Dan Pratt
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Hi Rustbucket, My advice is if you have the carb off the pilot motor then clean those cross passages, it will only add 30 minutes to the job and you will thank me later, particularly if your fuel system has been full of crud, don't forget to clean the gas tank really well too because those pilot motors will drive a man to drinking too much when they play up which can be often. Check that flywheel on the pilot motor for slop, they all have a bit, too much will suggest pulling the pistons out is a good idea but if the pulley is pretty snug I'd be tempted to leave the heads on and go for a second crankcase oil flush after you have run the pilot motor for a few minutes and got it warm, keep it simple right now because opening a engine up can open a Pandora's Box that didn't need opening.

I suggest you service the magneto too while you have the carb off, most those maggies need the bearings greased and yours will not have been done since the 1950's I'd suggest, the grease will be long dried up and if you plan on using the crawler regularly you don't want any headaches with the pilot motor, go the extra yard now for 10-20 years trouble free service. Those pilots will run happy as a clam on 30 lbs compression and burning a pint of oil a week, but they will not even start with a crap magneto or blocked carb passages.
Good luck
Mike
Hey Rustbucket,

I am about 2 miles from Venersburg. I would be happy to stop by and offer any advice, or at least admire your new toy, and meet a fellow local cat fan!

Dan22
Dan22 - 1936 22 Narrow, 1937 22 Wide, D2 5J, D4D
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Sat, Sep 2, 2017 3:16 AM
Machias cat
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Reply to Dan Pratt:
Hey Rustbucket,

I am about 2 miles from Venersburg. I would be happy to stop by and offer any advice, or at least admire your new toy, and meet a fellow local cat fan!

Dan22
Rustbucket,
Remove the pony heads and clean out the mung that has inevitably clogged the lower passageways, especially on the right side of the pony engine.

Just back off the capscrews that hold the fenders on the tractor and use some plastic fellers wedges to wedge the fenders outboard to give the pony heads clearance to clear the head studs.
If the studs protrude too much, just double nut them and extract them from the pony block; they should clear if they are the right length and are properly installed in the block.

You will have to remove the cylinder head drain cocks before removal as they will not allow the heads to come outboard enough to clear the studs.

Then go to town on the coolant passageways. Verify you have good flow across the block and out the main engine coolant drain on the RH side. This will assure proper coolant flow from the lower coolant passageway of the main engine into the lower part of the pony block.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Sat, Sep 2, 2017 10:41 AM
TyS
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Reply to Dan Pratt:
Hey Rustbucket,

I am about 2 miles from Venersburg. I would be happy to stop by and offer any advice, or at least admire your new toy, and meet a fellow local cat fan!

Dan22
[quote="Dan Pratt"]Hey Rustbucket,

I am about 2 miles from Venersburg. I would be happy to stop by and offer any advice, or at least admire your new toy, and meet a fellow local cat fan!

Dan22[/quote]


Hi Dan and Rustbucket

Maybe the three of us should get together this weekend. I'd be happy to lend A hand.

Ty
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Sun, Sep 3, 2017 9:01 PM
Rustbucket
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Reply to TyS:
[quote="Dan Pratt"]Hey Rustbucket,

I am about 2 miles from Venersburg. I would be happy to stop by and offer any advice, or at least admire your new toy, and meet a fellow local cat fan!

Dan22[/quote]


Hi Dan and Rustbucket

Maybe the three of us should get together this weekend. I'd be happy to lend A hand.

Ty
Thanks for the good advice! I had a fairly productive labor day.

The good news is the pony motor heads are finally removed. I started to double nut the studs to get them out when my neighbor popped round and suggested getting a sawzall on the DIY canopy brackets that were in the way on the fender.
I later just took the whole canopy off, it looked crappy and was just getting in my way.

The bad news is the cylinders were worse than I expected. I got the rust cleaned out and some kroil around the pistons, then the next day I got a rope on the pulley and rocked it back and forth until the pistons started to move. Compression on the left one is going to be crappy. I'll hone the rough spots to minimize damage to the rings as they move past, hopefully it will be enough to get the pony running in the short term enough to start the diesel. Then it'll be a case of looking for pistons, rings and getting the crankcase sleeved.
[attachment=44608]36278496023_a44d0441dd_z.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=44609]36256546984_61b7cd3d85_z.jpg[/attachment]


I pressure washed a bunch of the old mud and flaking paint off. It needs to be done again along with a good degreasing and wire brushing but I got the worst of it off enough to work on things without getting so dirty.

The starter motor on the pony works but I didn't get spark from the new or old plugs to begin with. The contact breaker just needed to be cleaned, sparks seem good so when I get the heads back on and the rebuilt carb installed I hope it'll run for a while even with the poor bore condition.

The pistons and valves on the diesel engine aren't stuck, I took the cover off and checked while turning it over with the compression release.
I'll check the rack and fuel pump next.

Oil and fuel filters are on order.

Looking much better without the canopy and so much dirt!
[attachment=44610]36256534634_2999846528_k.jpg[/attachment]

Ty & Dan, I'm definitely up for some visitors to share some wisdom 😊

Also, I need a copy of this magazine. My wife does not approve of me stinking like diesel all the time... :rant:
[attachment=44611]36950272581_781efc7aed_b.jpg[/attachment]
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Fri, Sep 8, 2017 5:40 AM
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