My 5J has the ratchet nut, currently covered by a pump drive, and the slotted crank bearing was there for a removable crank. I recall that somewhere in the instruction book they suggested rolling the engine over with the crank to grease the fan hub, clutch pilot bearing, set valves, etc. I don't recall them ever suggesting that you could start it with the crank.

Wern't all the old gas Cats set up with attached cranks and a strap to carry them?

Jack,

How does your pump drive hook up? I have a Vickers vane pump I would like to drive off the front of my 5J. I see there are 4 tapped bolt holes in the pulley. Is there an adapter that attaches to the pulley. I wonder if one of these is available or if it is a custom made item.

Tom

I saw a LaPlante pump and adapter box from the front of an old D4 on EBay Motors. It is exactly the same as the one on the back of my D2. I too want to install it on the front so that the hydraulics are live. As I remember when I pull the clutch to shift to reverse to back up the blade won't raise which means the PTO on the back doesn't run all the time. I would like a couple of fairly detailed photo's of how the shaft is attached to the front of the engine to go under the radiator ( is there a bearing under the radiator to prevent shaft whip?).
A photo of how pumps are typically mounted on the front to give me an idea of how to align and fabricate a mount.
Some day after I fix all the broken stuff and it runs again I want to put a PTO shaft on the back to pull the neighbors hay baler when him and I are playing Farmer!
Thanks!

My D2 originally had the side mount pump (running off the top of the winch) but I made an adapter, then a piece of shaft long enough to go under the radiator and used a chain coupling to unite the pump. I used the original pump, a vane type but should have gotten a bigger pump. The hydraulics work fine but are pretty slow so maybe one of these days I'll find a bigger pump.

You put the chain coupling close to the fan belt pulley verses out by the pump?
How did you make a mount for the pump out in front of the radiator?
Where does the mount bolt to the tractor at?

My LaPlante pump is a big old gear pump so I am not worried about volume.
As long as the blade is going up while shifting, then engaging the clutch, having the pump engine powered would get the blade edge off the ground.

I made a complicated connection with a flange that registered in the finished face of the pulley, then a short length of shelby tubing to extend over the nut, then a heavy washer to reduce the shelby tube down to a 7/8" keyed shaft. I had access to a good lathe at the time or I could never have made it. It bolts up to the face of the pulley.

Then I used a #40 chain coupler between the pulley and the radiator, a stub of shaft, and another very small--10tooth I believe x #40 chain--coupler that actually goes through the hole where the crank bearing used to be. I used the small coupler so I could get the pump up as close to the front as possible.

The pump is flange mounted; the attaching flange assembly bolts up to the crank bearing holes and also the four center radiator shell mount holes underneath and is independent of the front guard. If you use such a small chain coupler you will have to be damned close to straight on or the coupler will beat out fast. I was lucky, got it right.

I saw pump drives made by a shop in Gaston, Oregon--I never thought I'd forget their name, it's a good outfit--where they just broached a keyway in a hydraulic hose end and crimped a pair of them onto a good double wire braid hydraulic hose. They said it worked well, was compact enough to get under the 5J radiator and lasted. If I were redoing mine, I'd go with the hose. I didn't know about it when I made my drive in 1969. I'd still have to make the adaptor on the pulley but it would be 3/4" shaft instead of 7/8".

You can do it. Have fun.

I'll study the mounting tonight and take some measurements.
But to use a double braided hose a shaft and coupler is WAY too simple!
I see no reason not work as the couplers would take up at least an inch & half on each end so the hose would only be 4 to 5 inches maybe?

Don't believe the hose technique would use a coupling. It would have the keyway made in to the hose ends.

Not sure how it would be retained on the shafts, maybe just captive, not able to slide too far either way. If I were going to do that, I would modify the hose barb by grinding some longways grooves into it so it would have more resistance to twisting inside the hose.

I have seen a small coupling made like that on a cylinder hone.

I said coupling when I should have said, hose end.
I can machine anything I need at work but the hose is too simple, so I will try it first. You are right about grooving the hose ends to prevent twist.

I don't recall whether they put a set screw in one or both hose ends, or none. You're right, it's short. Maybe 6-8 inches of hose. I finally remembered the name: It's Phillips Tractor, was featured on a thread here a couple years ago. You might contact them. They might even have a drive on the shelf, already made up.