Mag Spark

Have you tried changing the gap on the points? What are you set on now? I think if you are getting any spark, the points are working. The condenser(capacitor) seems like a good first thing to try changing out. I cannot see why you would need to remove the coil from the mag to dry it out if you want to try. Just remove the cap so it can breathe.

Easy enough to check if you have a multimeter.
A probe from the spark plug connector to ground should read about 6200 ohm on the Bosch Mag. 3000 to 15000 ohm should still work. Any higher is a poor connection.

Check condenser with ohm meter or capacitance check.
With ohm function probing from lead to casing should show reading go to infinity as condenser charges.
or 0.024 microfarad if you have capacitance check function on the meter. 0.015 - 0.030 microfarad should still work.

I've cleaned and sanded the points several times and tried different gaps from .014 to .020. I took a condenser out of my pickup and put in it. It seemed to help a little about a 1/4" spark from the coil to the casing. I've ohmed the coils one 5.7 k the other 6.2 k. The points are less than 1. No short to ground. One distributor cap is much higher. Must be broke inside. The other is less than 1 from brush to prong. I haven't tried to ohm everything assembled but will. Distributor rotor is also less than 1 and 6m to ground.

What reading should you get from the wire on the grounding post from the coil to ground?

I would expect straight continuity (no resistance) from grounding post to ground.
Primary coil wire to ground (larger wire, fewer turns) should also have very low resistance.

Hold on a second. If that wire is already grounded then how does the kill switch do any good? What is the point of isolating the grounding post if the wire connected is to it from the coil is grounded?
Does anyone have a tech manual on these with a spec sheet? The cat books don't say much other than timing.

Hold on a second. If that wire is already grounded then how does the kill switch do any good? What is the point of isolating the grounding post if the wire connected is to it from the coil is grounded?
Does anyone have a tech manual on these with a spec sheet? The cat books don't say much other than timing.

[quote="fraser05"]Hold on a second. If that wire is already grounded then how does the kill switch do any good? What is the point of isolating the grounding post if the wire connected is to it from the coil is grounded?
Does anyone have a tech manual on these with a spec sheet? The cat books don't say much other than timing.[/quote]

If the spark is yellow, change the condenser. Should be blue. They will run with a yellow spark, but a real bear to get running. spark plug gap on all magneto fired engines should be 25thousands. Napa condenser will work on many applications #rr-175 If yours has the odd mount bracket, carefully drill out the spot welds, tin the bracket with solder, and after scraping the side of the new condenser, solder the bracket to it being careful with the heat applied, and cool immediately. Cap checkers are available at W.W. Granger a bit north of $65

Per AB spec. point gap should be 0.014 - 0.018"
Should jump a 9mm spark gap with rotor turning 200 rpm.