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Serious oil leak - quick fix?

Serious oil leak - quick fix?

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janmeermans
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Today I found a serious oil leak between the accessory/governor housing and the front engine cover on my D342. This was the first time I had it running (yes we got the rebuilt pony running today!)so I could not see it before. The leak is very concentrated-less than an inch along the seam but it is running out pretty good.

Anybody had any luck putting a "patch" on a leaking seam from the outside and not taking, in this case, the fuelpump and governor out to replace the gasket? There are some new materials out there which might work here if the surface was dry and roughed up with a grinder or chisel. It will take a crane to pick the fuel pump out and a whole lot of work!

Another member here suggested blowing RTV up into the hole with air pressure. Anyone done that!

JanM
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Fri, Jul 14, 2017 11:11 AM
Wombat
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Hey Jan,

You could try the electric welder:eek2::wacko: or maybe even some bronze:loco::wacko:😖mile:😖mile:😖mile:
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Fri, Jul 14, 2017 2:57 PM
neil
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Reply to Wombat:
Hey Jan,

You could try the electric welder:eek2::wacko: or maybe even some bronze:loco::wacko:😖mile:😖mile:😖mile:
Hi Jan, I just had a very similar thing - the front accessory drive cover on the D2 has a small square gasket in the lower right corner that I completely missed when fitting the cover. I pulled the cover an inch which was enough to squirt some rtv in there. Is that an option?
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Fri, Jul 14, 2017 5:30 PM
Crawler Dollars
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Reply to neil:
Hi Jan, I just had a very similar thing - the front accessory drive cover on the D2 has a small square gasket in the lower right corner that I completely missed when fitting the cover. I pulled the cover an inch which was enough to squirt some rtv in there. Is that an option?
Jan, I've seen (don't remember the brand) a 2 part epoxy that comes in a stick form, used to plug a leak in a gas tank. If the area is accessible enough to be able to clean it well with brake clean and then be able to fit a finger in there to force it into the crack, it may work. :noidea: It may be worth a try.

Crawler
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Fri, Jul 14, 2017 8:51 PM
neil
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By the way we need video evidence of this alleged start-up : )


[quote="janmeermans"]Today I found a serious oil leak between the accessory/governor housing and the front engine cover on my D342. This was the first time I had it running (yes we got the rebuilt pony running today!)so I could not see it before. The leak is very concentrated-less than an inch along the seam but it is running out pretty good.

Anybody had any luck putting a "patch" on a leaking seam from the outside and not taking, in this case, the fuelpump and governor out to replace the gasket? There are some new materials out there which might work here if the surface was dry and roughed up with a grinder or chisel. It will take a crane to pick the fuel pump out and a whole lot of work!

Another member here suggested blowing RTV up into the hole with air pressure. Anyone done that!

JanM[/quote]
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Fri, Jul 14, 2017 9:45 PM
janmeermans
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Reply to neil:
By the way we need video evidence of this alleged start-up : )


[quote="janmeermans"]Today I found a serious oil leak between the accessory/governor housing and the front engine cover on my D342. This was the first time I had it running (yes we got the rebuilt pony running today!)so I could not see it before. The leak is very concentrated-less than an inch along the seam but it is running out pretty good.

Anybody had any luck putting a "patch" on a leaking seam from the outside and not taking, in this case, the fuelpump and governor out to replace the gasket? There are some new materials out there which might work here if the surface was dry and roughed up with a grinder or chisel. It will take a crane to pick the fuel pump out and a whole lot of work!

Another member here suggested blowing RTV up into the hole with air pressure. Anyone done that!

JanM[/quote]
No video of the startup. I was busy pulling pony clutch handle/throttle/choke etc. and Scotty Graham was poking at the carburetor and twisting knobs to do any filming. I will write a separate post about the rebuild.

JanM
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Fri, Jul 14, 2017 9:56 PM
rustytracks
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Reply to janmeermans:
No video of the startup. I was busy pulling pony clutch handle/throttle/choke etc. and Scotty Graham was poking at the carburetor and twisting knobs to do any filming. I will write a separate post about the rebuild.

JanM
Fixed a lot of oil leaks with quick steel and it works great - no problems with it so far. As long as the area is dry (does not even have to be sanded good) it will work. Don't waste your time with JB Weld that stuff is about worthless.
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Fri, Jul 14, 2017 11:20 PM
ccjersey
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If the bolts are already tight, I have fixed similar leaks with thin wedges of SOFT wood tapped in the gasket line. Usually tap it in a quarter inch before it crushes and breaks off the part I am hitting. I think it expands/crumples the gasket as well as plugging the leak with the wood.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Jul 15, 2017 2:24 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to ccjersey:
If the bolts are already tight, I have fixed similar leaks with thin wedges of SOFT wood tapped in the gasket line. Usually tap it in a quarter inch before it crushes and breaks off the part I am hitting. I think it expands/crumples the gasket as well as plugging the leak with the wood.
Hi, Jan M.
WOTTZ wrong with yer, Man? Do the job PROPERLY.

That said, and following on from CCJersey's post, trying sharpening the ends of a couple of ice cream sticks to a short, flat chisel point, like a wood chisel, then cut them off to about 1" long and drive them into the gap. Smearing the ends of them with Loctite QuickMetal before driving them in probably wouldn't hurt either.

And then leave it for somebody in the 24th century to ask themselves, "What shady tree butcher did this?" (IF they even know what a shady tree workshop is by then.)

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Sat, Jul 15, 2017 4:48 AM
edb
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Jan M.
WOTTZ wrong with yer, Man? Do the job PROPERLY.

That said, and following on from CCJersey's post, trying sharpening the ends of a couple of ice cream sticks to a short, flat chisel point, like a wood chisel, then cut them off to about 1" long and drive them into the gap. Smearing the ends of them with Loctite QuickMetal before driving them in probably wouldn't hurt either.

And then leave it for somebody in the 24th century to ask themselves, "What shady tree butcher did this?" (IF they even know what a shady tree workshop is by then.)

Just my 0.02.
Hi Team,
if the leak is in behind the Gov. housing where it contacts the cyl block just under half way up--about level with the top of the block side cover--it could be the "O Ring" which is the same as those under the injection pumps, and in time takes on the same triangular shape. The "O Ring" seals engine oil pressure so this can test the gasket systems sealing ability if it is missing or cooked hard.

Part of the Gov. Hsg. gasket system is a rectangular cork gasket between the engine cyl. block, the Gov. Hsg. and the rear face of the front cover which can shrink if it dries out from lack of use or damaged during fitting of the Gov. Hsg.
To seal the Gov. Hsg. to the front cover a normal composite gasket is used.

If the Gov. Hsg. has been off before and the gasket was damaged a full right hand section of front cover gasket is cut and that section patched in to give a new sealing medium.
If the gasket section was poorly cut and not sealed properly at the block and rear face of the timing cover corner, oil can leak here too.

At The Dealer we made up an Omega shaped cutting tool punch to try and achieve constant sealed joints in these type applications--I think it was made from bending a pre-sharpened hack saw blade to the shape and silver soldering it to the end of a piece of round stock for the shank. This only works if the corner joint ends of the old gasket are intact, then you just cut to the corner and seal it best as one can.
Most large Cat gaskets use these jig saw type Omega joints to save gasket material.
As others have said if the leak is at the bottom of this 90 degree joint then a good de-oil and some epoxy or silicon gasket preparation applied may keep you going temporarily.

Hope this Aussie waffle helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Jul 15, 2017 8:10 AM
janmeermans
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
if the leak is in behind the Gov. housing where it contacts the cyl block just under half way up--about level with the top of the block side cover--it could be the "O Ring" which is the same as those under the injection pumps, and in time takes on the same triangular shape. The "O Ring" seals engine oil pressure so this can test the gasket systems sealing ability if it is missing or cooked hard.

Part of the Gov. Hsg. gasket system is a rectangular cork gasket between the engine cyl. block, the Gov. Hsg. and the rear face of the front cover which can shrink if it dries out from lack of use or damaged during fitting of the Gov. Hsg.
To seal the Gov. Hsg. to the front cover a normal composite gasket is used.

If the Gov. Hsg. has been off before and the gasket was damaged a full right hand section of front cover gasket is cut and that section patched in to give a new sealing medium.
If the gasket section was poorly cut and not sealed properly at the block and rear face of the timing cover corner, oil can leak here too.

At The Dealer we made up an Omega shaped cutting tool punch to try and achieve constant sealed joints in these type applications--I think it was made from bending a pre-sharpened hack saw blade to the shape and silver soldering it to the end of a piece of round stock for the shank. This only works if the corner joint ends of the old gasket are intact, then you just cut to the corner and seal it best as one can.
Most large Cat gaskets use these jig saw type Omega joints to save gasket material.
As others have said if the leak is at the bottom of this 90 degree joint then a good de-oil and some epoxy or silicon gasket preparation applied may keep you going temporarily.

Hope this Aussie waffle helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
All,

I am glad to read about some options for this leak. The leak is directly under the Governor at the front cover joint so it is fairly accessible. I will most likely try the Quick Steel idea and maybe drive a thin piece of wood first. Not sure what an Omega shaped cutting tool would look like ( I know what the Greek letter looks like) so that will remain a mystery but thanks for the conversation on if EddieB.

What ever I do, I will post the results.

JanM
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Sun, Jul 16, 2017 9:28 PM
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