Not the first of those hydraulic systems I have seen with a Brass Valve in the Hydraulic line! Are they bypassing it to another Control for some reason? Also It still has the Skids under the Blade! Those are as rare as hen's teeth! Every once in a while someone revives the discussion on replacing those! You wouldn't mind taking some pictures of them would you? Or at least of the one that you showed in the one photo!

"caterpillar13" wrote:

why would you not keep the d3 , it will do more work faster than the d4 and a lot nicer to run??

I quit the clearing business so I don't need it sitting around the farm. I sell tractor parts and could use the money to help with the business. No doubt I will miss it, it has spoiled me with the pedal steer. I grew up on and owned old D6 9U, D7 3T, D8 2U cable blades and would not own one without a pony. I have passed on buying old cats with turn key direct start - wheres the fun in that?

"drujinin" wrote:

Not the first of those hydraulic systems I have seen with a Brass Valve in the Hydraulic line! Are they bypassing it to another Control for some reason? Also It still has the Skids under the Blade! Those are as rare as hen's teeth! Every once in a while someone revives the discussion on replacing those! You wouldn't mind taking some pictures of them would you? Or at least of the one that you showed in the one photo!

If I don't find another blade system (probably won't) I will be removing the skids because they look to me to be in the way. I have never seen this setup, is this the early version of blade laser grading? Could modify the pin length longer and use it as a "jack stand" for holding the blade up while working under the dozer? But if it is rare and someone wants them then I would no way modify it, I do like to preserve things that are worthy. I buy and do sell things that most people see as scrap, I see it as rusty gold.

Hope this helps with the final drives in question. On bottom of the final housing, the part number is 4F7248 and the end cover is 3F1556.

Added some pics of the half broken controls with lots of pine straw to clean out. Going to get things cleaned up and taken apart. That cage is like a chop top version, it's a little low profile for a tall person and the back bar is in front of the seat back cushion area - a spine killer for sure. Will have to modify this one or fabricate a new one. Now the fun begins, I mean that in a good way.

Thanks for all the input. If there is any particular pics or part numbers wanted, let me know.

As long as the skid is retracted above the cutting edge, they can stay installed as the blade edge will continue to cut material.
If you were anyplace else, you would want them for material grading and snow plow duty.

Hi, Neil.
I'd like to suggest that you look again at those rake points. I doubt they would be flip-up-able the way they are welded on to the blade. Good thought though - - - if it was do-able.

Just my 0.02.

The hubs look to be from a 5T or 7U series tractors. The G, J and 2T series had the four bolt hubs.

Thanks for the reply's.

Is the 7U transmission, pinion / final housing stronger or better than the 6G series? I noticed a couple welds on right side housing where the final drive bolts up to it. No leaks and they did a great job but I have a 7U one that needs gone through because of sitting too long in the weather. May just build a complete 7U dozer and do away with the 6G part. Probably cheaper to buy one running and ready to work but that takes out the fun and challenge of a project.

Teeth are welded, gonna cut them off - no need for a rake. Skids most likely coming off also - no need for them. I already cleared my property with the IH TD25C (sold it a few years ago) , just need this machine for the "just in case". For some reason I can't seem to survive without a dozer or two.