Just squeeze the spring a little to hold the brush as you say. Careful. they are kind of delicate but replacements are available.
Not a fan of B & C.
If you are considering DE start the complete starter conversion is available on ebay for about $500. (less all the installation items). If you order be sure to request unit with RH helical drive gear.

A side note about chipped mag brushes. if you can feel a height difference between the metal and phenolic surface the brushes ride on chances are good u'll chip brushes. i got a couple rotors with metal being ever so slightly taller, seems the carbon must catch on it. I'm wondering if that metal portion can be machined back smooth/flush. good luck with ur project.

Hey akpj,

Nice looking Cat. I have 4 @ 14a's, 10@ D8's all together(11 is you count the Siamese twice...). In the cold, stick with the pony in my humble opinion. I'm in a mild climate, and every winter I dread batteries starting cats. Pony engines kick butt in the winter months, all year too. It just needs a little TLC. My favorite tractor is a 14a, pony start. Can't beat the rumble this Cat makes while grunting...

Next year I want to drive the Alcan highway. Get the Cat fixed up, I'll stop by and test run it for you...

Hi Team,
the brush fits into the end of the spring and is usually held by the fact the spring end coils are wound closer and slightly smaller than the rest of the spring which usually tapers out to its other end so it holds in the hole securely.

The spring is held onto the brush because of this difference in size--the brush usually will usually be able to be fitted to the spring by simply pushing the two pieces together.

The trick is to fish the spring out of its hole and then gently holding the spring in your finger twist the brush against the spring end in the direction opposite to its coil winding direction--towards the open/cut end of the coil wire loop.
This causes the coils to open and allow the brush end to enter the coils.
If you experiment you should readily see the coil effect of opening/closing.

Sometimes a slight taper can be sanded onto the sharp stepped end of the brush to help fitting--also shallow groove undercut at the step shoulder can assist keeping the spring in place.
To refit the spring to its hole simply twist the spring in the direction of its winding --this causes the end to close in and effectively be smaller so as to fit easily.
Hope you can follow this Aussie English.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks for all the help and info.

Got here back up and running.

Old Magnet and EDB thanks will be trying those tips tomorrow.


So the short story is I just went back to the basics air, spark and gas! Got the spark back up and going not perfectly yet but hope to with the input from here(not that my untrained ear or poor eyes can tell the difference now). Then went after the gas and air. Found a partial clog of one of the jet holes in the fuel supply to the carb cleaned it up and the air intake and she started to stay running. Noticed one of the cylinders was blowing oil past the spark plug that I must not have tightened down enough (fixed that). Then let the pony warm up the diesel eng and gave it a try.
After trying to remember the sequence to start it as well. Stumped my sell for a few minutes as she really looked like she wanted to run but didn't. Was thinking maybe I forgot a fuel shut off or something then the light came on and ops forgot to open the throttle a little and BOOOMMM Black smoke and it was going good .

Now for the next bit of help.

Shut here back down and started to go thru all the dipsticks ext (yes I checked the oil and some of them prior to trying to start her). As my books are in the mail! Can anyone tell me what the dipstick just to the right of the seat is for? It says to check when running but there is nothing on the dipstick when I checked it not running. Does it need some prior or is it pumped there when running??

Next is yes there is anti-freeze but not all the way up to be visible in the throat of the tank and no sight gauge or dip stick so do I need it full to the brim or is that over filling?
Also it has a small tank in front of the radiator that is not quite full, what is this tank supply for and what type oil does it get?

I think I found all the dip sticks I can remember like 8-9 of them. Two or three under the seat, one beside the seat, one under the foot bar, only found one on the passenger/ right side low on the engine, three or so on the drivers/ left side mostly for the pony and its trani/ drive thing-e (technical term there). Am I missing any??

Is there anything else preventive anyone can suggest prior to taking her back out for a spin? Shes been sitting 4 years so want to make sure I don't mess her up. Or any other helpful tips for keeping her in good shape, like what to always check and keep an eye on, proper sequence to starting and running, how long to warm her up, both pony and diesel engines, always start with the low gear over the high gear, do or dont throw the lever from start to run before or after engaging the pony motor to the diesel motor, ext anything and everything will be a help.

Thanks again (PS ifn I need to put all that in a different thread or section please let me know).

"7upuller" wrote:

Hey akpj,

Nice looking Cat. I have 4 @ 14a's, 10@ D8's all together(11 is you count the Siamese twice...). In the cold, stick with the pony in my humble opinion. I'm in a mild climate, and every winter I dread batteries starting cats. Pony engines kick butt in the winter months, all year too. It just needs a little TLC. My favorite tractor is a 14a, pony start. Can't beat the rumble this Cat makes while grunting...

Next year I want to drive the Alcan highway. Get the Cat fixed up, I'll stop by and test run it for you...

Thanks she is a beauty to me. REALLY happy to have her up and running again esp with the pony working did not want to change that. Though the miner that I bought her from said he could never get her running up here in the winter with out covering her and using a space heater. Will have to see as this will be my first winter not deployed or unable to do anything due to surgeries.
If you drive late May and June's usually the best time and weather. July, Aug and Sept can be a bit wet.
If you or anyone on here make it by and shes still running they can take her for a ride (or help fix her if she's not !
Cheers,
James

Hello James, if you would like to PM me we might be able to get together. I don't claim to be an all-knowing expert but am reasonably familiar with these beasts and could possible help you out.

I thought my location was in my header, I see is it not. I am in the Palmer vicinity.

James,

Once you get that 14A running correctly, you will really enjoy the capabilities of it. They are strong Cats. The radiator should be filled up to where you can see the water/antifreeze mix. Your tractor is a later build with hydraulics from the factory. The tank in the lower grill area in front of the radiator is your hydraulic reservoir for the hydraulic pump that is driven off of the front of the crankshaft. Keep it filled to the top with hydraulic oil. The dipsticks in and around the seat area are for the power assist for the steering clutches and most likely for your wet brakes and actual steering clutches. If I remember correctly, those all take standard motor oil with exception to the transmission which takes 90wt (someone may correct me for the later serial numbers which could use motor oil too). There is one more dipstick to check and it is right in the center right below the dash on the main deck. That is for your oil master clutch. I have changed my 14A over to using ATF in the oil clutch. It will stop the drag while trying to get your transmission into gear when the system is cold.

As far as the starting engine transmission, in weather above freezing, use the high range and turn the diesel over in the start position until it is spinning easily and the oil pressure is up. Then kick it over to the run position and in a minute or two, pull up on the throttle and fire the diesel. Don't forget to check the final drives in the back of the machine on each side just above the drawbar and near the inside of the tracks. If you don't have the correct wrench, you can make one by getting the correct size bolt head that will fit the inside of the oil fill cap. Then weld the nut on the bolt.

Hi Bob,
Nothing really wrong with running ATF in the oil clutch but be aware that the viscosity rating of ATF is about equivalent to running 20 wt engine oil. Might be a little thin in hot operating temperatures.