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D6 9U brake options

D6 9U brake options

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TOGNOT
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While I wait for my clutch parts to show up I checked into the brake compartment. My shoes are down to the rivets. I found complete shoes for about $315. I can get friction material for a fraction of that.

Can those of you who have relined your own shoes relate your experience ? Need special tools ?

Any tricks required ? I like the idea of rebuilding a component rather than " replace with a known good part".....

Thanks
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Fri, Mar 3, 2017 11:27 AM
ccjersey
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A rivet squeezer is nice. It speeds up the process a lot and allows some "feel" to prevent crushing the lining under the rivet.

I did a shoe for a grader and the little clutch brake shoe on a 9U with just hand tools and both turned out fine. Just need to grind a drill bit and set a stop collar on it to countersink the material to fit the head shape of the rivets. Get started by clamping one end to the band before drilling, countersinking and setting the first rivet. Then check alignment and move clamps before drilling next set of holes. I drilled through from the band side with the pilot of the drill bit and then countersinked that hole in the lining using the countersink section and the stop collar on the same bit. I set the hollow rivets with a hammer and punch. That is where the press would really help.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Mar 3, 2017 10:28 PM
mog5858
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Reply to ccjersey:
A rivet squeezer is nice. It speeds up the process a lot and allows some "feel" to prevent crushing the lining under the rivet.

I did a shoe for a grader and the little clutch brake shoe on a 9U with just hand tools and both turned out fine. Just need to grind a drill bit and set a stop collar on it to countersink the material to fit the head shape of the rivets. Get started by clamping one end to the band before drilling, countersinking and setting the first rivet. Then check alignment and move clamps before drilling next set of holes. I drilled through from the band side with the pilot of the drill bit and then countersinked that hole in the lining using the countersink section and the stop collar on the same bit. I set the hollow rivets with a hammer and punch. That is where the press would really help.
that's all very good info. about all i can add is that i have used a C clamp to squeeze down the rivets work quite well as you turned it it help pull down the end. i don't mind the work i set up are mag drill at work with a depth stop to do the counter bores but there lost of ways to do. drill a little a just keep checking with your rivet. you need lost of clamps/ vice grips work well. just tack a nut of the right size on to the bottom of your c clamp it will save you from drooping to help back up the rivet till you get set.
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Sat, Mar 4, 2017 8:16 AM
TOGNOT
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Reply to mog5858:
that's all very good info. about all i can add is that i have used a C clamp to squeeze down the rivets work quite well as you turned it it help pull down the end. i don't mind the work i set up are mag drill at work with a depth stop to do the counter bores but there lost of ways to do. drill a little a just keep checking with your rivet. you need lost of clamps/ vice grips work well. just tack a nut of the right size on to the bottom of your c clamp it will save you from drooping to help back up the rivet till you get set.
Thanks guys. Sounds like a good way to #1, spend a day, # 2 save about $200, # 3 get bragging rights next time Oilslick tells me he paid someone to reline his brakes ! Blasphemy !!
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Sat, Mar 4, 2017 9:19 AM
Andrew
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Reply to mog5858:
that's all very good info. about all i can add is that i have used a C clamp to squeeze down the rivets work quite well as you turned it it help pull down the end. i don't mind the work i set up are mag drill at work with a depth stop to do the counter bores but there lost of ways to do. drill a little a just keep checking with your rivet. you need lost of clamps/ vice grips work well. just tack a nut of the right size on to the bottom of your c clamp it will save you from drooping to help back up the rivet till you get set.
I would add to the previous good advice to set each rivet with one hammer blow to all the rivets on each lining.
Then go over them again and lock them all down tight..
One or two good hits rather than several half harted atempts.
Some linings come pre drilled while others are not drilled.
I have been drilling rivet holes out to take the aluminum rivets we use on truck brake linings.
I think these are more suitable for hand riveting and won't damage the drum when the lining wears out .
Good luck.
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Sat, Mar 4, 2017 9:29 AM
Ray54
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Reply to TOGNOT:
Thanks guys. Sounds like a good way to #1, spend a day, # 2 save about $200, # 3 get bragging rights next time Oilslick tells me he paid someone to reline his brakes ! Blasphemy !!
Cat lining most times has been drilled. The one time it was not drilled there was still one of the old time Cat mechanics that would do such jobs in his retirement. But that was 30 years ago.

McMaster Carr sells punches to set the hollow rivets.
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Sat, Mar 4, 2017 9:33 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Ray54:
Cat lining most times has been drilled. The one time it was not drilled there was still one of the old time Cat mechanics that would do such jobs in his retirement. But that was 30 years ago.

McMaster Carr sells punches to set the hollow rivets.
The brake bands for some of my old winches I just brought to a truck brake shop and they riveted new linings on---i think it was about $50 each
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Sat, Mar 4, 2017 9:14 PM
TOGNOT
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Reply to dpendzic:
The brake bands for some of my old winches I just brought to a truck brake shop and they riveted new linings on---i think it was about $50 each
I purchased brake material from general gear in Idaho - about $100.00 shipped to my door. The linings were pre drilled and came with two different rivet thickness ...

After cleaning up the brake bands and coating them with rusty metal primer, it went pretty quick. I used a punch ground to a 45 degree head to hit the open side of the rivet and get it "flared". Then followed up with a flat "punch" . I backed the rivet head on round stock in the vise.

I learned you can hit the river too hard. Only enough for is required to deform the rivet, too much does not mean it will hold better ( I found). All in all one of the easier jobs I have done on this tractor.
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Thu, Mar 23, 2017 10:06 PM
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