Thanks Old Magnet. Sticking somewhere after the booster then.

Hi, Catboy1.
Per Old Magnet's upload, there should be about 3" free travel at the top of the steering control levers. Then there should be about 3/16" between the cups/pistons and the actuating levers INSIDE the boosters that they push against. If you have 2" clearance inside the boosters at 'A', I would venture to suggest that your problem is right there. It may be that the linkages from the boosters to the steering clutches are simply stuck and not pushing the actuating levers back toward the cups/pistons inside the boosters. If your actuating levers inside the booster don't look like those in Old Magnet's posted diagram, start looking to see why.

If it is the cups/pistons stuck in their bores, you need to be pretty delicate about freeing them up as the tolerances in there need to be fairly neat for the boosters to work. As I understand it, the incoming rod at 'B' pushes on that piston to close off a hydraulic bypass and force the hydraulic oil to push the rear cup/piston back against the steering clutch actuating lever. Score marks and rust pits will reduce the effectiveness of the system.

Just my 0.02.

There is a big space between the cups and levers as I mentioned before. The clutches are disengaged. So it is probably after the booster, right? Is there something in the clutch itself that can stick open? Is it known for the levers to stick? The booster was very dry, I had to add about four or five litres of oil.

Can I pry on the lever from inside the booster? Old Magnet, do you have a picture of what the linkage looks like from the bottom of the booster lever to the clutch yoke? Thanks for helping me, you guys.

Position of the arm is controlled by the steering clutch release yoke and adjustment.

It sounds to me as if the vertical shafts are seized in their bushes, if the adjuster nuts in the yokes are tight, the steering clutches are disengaged, and there is so much clearance in the booster pistons, I would definitely be checking to see if those vertical shafts are seized.

You are right Catsiilver! I went back this morning and removed the adjuster nut on the right hand clutch yoke. The clutch retreated back into the drum, so I opened the top of the booster and gently pounded the lever back to the cups with an aluminum rod. Then I pulled on the clutch lever and repeated about thirty times. On the side that I removed the cover I was able to adjust it close to 3/16ths and it works great now. The other side works, but not as well. It will now be able to self load onto the trailer, which was the main goal. I am happy! Thanks for all the help, Robyn

You can't get those shafts out without removing the booster, best get access through the inspection plates at the back and spray some WD40 over the area of the bearings and keep working the linkage.

What inspection plates do you mean? The clutch ones, or can I take out the frost plug looking things on the booster and spray juice down there?

You will have to gain access from the top (large cover plates) as the rear access plates are covered by the winch. I'd suspect it's the lower bushings that don't get lubed that are causing the problem.