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Hydraulic cylinder rebuild

Hydraulic cylinder rebuild

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TOGNOT
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I am giving some attention to a leaky cylinder on a pull scraper . I remove the cylinder and went to disassemble but (bottom line) don't know how. I expected the end cap to unscrew. It spins but does not unscrew. Also, notice the Allen head plugs in the end cap. They don't want to move either.
So, rather than beat on it, I thought I would ask the smart folks here if they have seen this design.

Thank you in advance

[attachment=39159]image.jpg[/attachment]
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Tue, Nov 29, 2016 5:06 AM
edb
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Hi Tognot,
never done one but have seen similar on lift trucks etc.
I would try removing the Allen screws, slide a possible outer dust seal carrier plate out of the barrel and there could be a big circlip holding an inner plate in situ.
Others can have a circular circlip that needs to be removed thru a slot in the side of the barrel at the head plate area.
I am sure there are other possibilities and variations also, as others will no doubt tell us about.
Your mileage may vary.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, Nov 29, 2016 7:40 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to edb:
Hi Tognot,
never done one but have seen similar on lift trucks etc.
I would try removing the Allen screws, slide a possible outer dust seal carrier plate out of the barrel and there could be a big circlip holding an inner plate in situ.
Others can have a circular circlip that needs to be removed thru a slot in the side of the barrel at the head plate area.
I am sure there are other possibilities and variations also, as others will no doubt tell us about.
Your mileage may vary.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Hi, Tognot.
DON'T use brute force! Get a BIGGER hammer. LOL.

I'm with Edb on this one. I suspect that those 'in-hex' Allen key bolts may be the key to 'having it all fall apart on your foot'. If they are not moving, try getting a piece of GOOD quality hex rod the same size and about 8" long, setting it in the Allen key recess, and giving it a few good sharp taps - or TAPS - to help loosen them up. Liberal applications of your favorite 'possum urine' may also help to loosen them up.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Tue, Nov 29, 2016 9:02 AM
ccjersey
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Once the outer plate is removed, you should be able to bump the "head" into the cylinder and expose a retaining ring that is seated in a groove cut in the cylinder wall. Usually this will be a round spring steel wire and it can be pried out with a screwdriver. The groove is frequently cut with a bit of a ramp running inward so by driving the head in plenty far, you will have room to push one side of the retainer inward so its easier to pry it out.

Use a block of wood to drive the head into the cylinder and to protect the rod from dings by the hammer!

Once the retainer is out you can snatch on the rod and pull the head out of the cylinder. It is a good idea to check for burrs on the outer edge of the retaining ring groove before you snatch on it. Sometimes there will be quite a large ridge from the retaining ring working in the cylinder over time. The outer plate seems to have been good and tight, so that may have prevented the pounding action and the inside of the cylinder will be smooth except for the groove.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Nov 29, 2016 9:19 AM
TOGNOT
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Reply to ccjersey:
Once the outer plate is removed, you should be able to bump the "head" into the cylinder and expose a retaining ring that is seated in a groove cut in the cylinder wall. Usually this will be a round spring steel wire and it can be pried out with a screwdriver. The groove is frequently cut with a bit of a ramp running inward so by driving the head in plenty far, you will have room to push one side of the retainer inward so its easier to pry it out.

Use a block of wood to drive the head into the cylinder and to protect the rod from dings by the hammer!

Once the retainer is out you can snatch on the rod and pull the head out of the cylinder. It is a good idea to check for burrs on the outer edge of the retaining ring groove before you snatch on it. Sometimes there will be quite a large ridge from the retaining ring working in the cylinder over time. The outer plate seems to have been good and tight, so that may have prevented the pounding action and the inside of the cylinder will be smooth except for the groove.
Ok I will get those out - eventually- and report back. Thanks
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Tue, Nov 29, 2016 1:35 PM
TOGNOT
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Reply to TOGNOT:
Ok I will get those out - eventually- and report back. Thanks
Ok I did what you guys suggested - and you were right- after removing the three cap screw ( Allen head) bolts I was able to "walk off" the end cap with a special tool ( chisel and hammer ).

I then found a spiral spring acting as a retainer. I pulled that out and attempted to extract the shaft and seal assembly by placing the cylinder between two posts and using a come a-long. My guess is I need to keep trying , or try harder but I don't want to cause damage due to ignorance.

Here is a pic of the end of the housing. I see nothing more to remove. Just pull it apart ? Maybe hook it up to the D2 and try to pull the td15 ? Thanks

[attachment=39182]image.jpg[/attachment]
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Fri, Dec 2, 2016 6:41 AM
jmvmopar
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Reply to TOGNOT:
Ok I did what you guys suggested - and you were right- after removing the three cap screw ( Allen head) bolts I was able to "walk off" the end cap with a special tool ( chisel and hammer ).

I then found a spiral spring acting as a retainer. I pulled that out and attempted to extract the shaft and seal assembly by placing the cylinder between two posts and using a come a-long. My guess is I need to keep trying , or try harder but I don't want to cause damage due to ignorance.

Here is a pic of the end of the housing. I see nothing more to remove. Just pull it apart ? Maybe hook it up to the D2 and try to pull the td15 ? Thanks

[attachment=39182]image.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Looks like you have the snap ring out. I would think it would just pull apart.

When you go to replace the seals. Place them in boiling water. It will make the soft enough to flex them into place.

Then when you go to assemble the cylinder. Get yourself a tub of "Trans-jel" or transmission assembly lube or "goo". Available at Napa. Stuff is awesome for O-rings and lip seals.
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Fri, Dec 2, 2016 9:18 AM
ccjersey
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Have you pushed the head into the cylinder? Will it go farther than shown in the picture? I would worry that there was an additional retainer still trapped in the space between the head and cylinder wall. Guess I haven't seen one with a retainer that wasn't trapped by the head moving outward.

I have had some trouble getting them out, but nothing like you are having.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Dec 2, 2016 9:43 AM
edb
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Reply to ccjersey:
Have you pushed the head into the cylinder? Will it go farther than shown in the picture? I would worry that there was an additional retainer still trapped in the space between the head and cylinder wall. Guess I haven't seen one with a retainer that wasn't trapped by the head moving outward.

I have had some trouble getting them out, but nothing like you are having.
Hi TOGNOT,
as CCJ said above, push the inner head into the barrel a bit and check for burrs raised by the circlip working in its groove.
This burr may inhibit the head coming out.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Fri, Dec 2, 2016 11:07 AM
TOGNOT
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Reply to edb:
Hi TOGNOT,
as CCJ said above, push the inner head into the barrel a bit and check for burrs raised by the circlip working in its groove.
This burr may inhibit the head coming out.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I'll give it another look in the light of day. I am sure the head is pushed back into the cylinder and I can't see another clip or ring keeping it from comin out. It will pull out fairly easy to within 1\4" of the end of the cylinder and then stops. It is quite possible it has not been apart in 30 years - may the packing has turned to stone?

I have done the come along before and cylinders just fell apart. I'll let you know what happens!
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Fri, Dec 2, 2016 11:14 AM
rmyram
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it sure looks like you got the ring out. sometimes ive used the rod and piston as a slide hammer and had to "pull the guide" by pushing the rod in and then yanking on it as hard as i can to bump the guide out. i don't think i ever dissassembled a cylinder like this without wrecking the guide and piston seals. many times there is a burr on the groove from the ring, i use a flapper wheel in my diegrinder to smooth it out. i have also used a three stone hone to clean them up and make them really smooth before asembly.
i also use piston ring compressors to shrink the piston seals back in to the groove after installation, especially the teflon ones. the side of a plastic gallon jug cut into a stip with a hose clamp wrapped around it will work to if you don;t have a piston ring compressor that will fit.

vaseline is what i use for assembly lube, i coat the piston and guide liberally, i also fill the groove as full as i can before i slide the piston and guide in. on other thing i do is coat the guide from the sealing o ring to the outside of the guide (everything that is not under pressure from the oil with never seize to prevent rust and siezing in the bore.
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Fri, Dec 2, 2016 12:57 PM
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