contaminated oil wont hold its viscosity.

need to find out what is leaking i would replace the gasket and seal on the lift pump first.

cat did make dye for diagnosing leaks edb spoke of it in another thread unknown if they made one for fuel.

Ran the UV dye thru the sediment bowl. Ran the tractor about 15 minutes or so and parked it for the night. During the night though I pulled the dipstick and the oil had a slight fluorescence to it under the black light. Then the next day pulled the injection pump and the oil in there has an obvious fluorescence coming from the rack bleeding into the crank case. I shined the light down the injection pump drain and back down towards the accessory drive all lit up under the black light. Probably whatever seized up the rack has cruded up the pistons of the injection pump causing it to leak by.

Pic is looking at the forward end of the rack


Pic looking at the bottom of the injection pump at the drain

Hi Team,
with the compact injection pumps little fuel would normally by pass the plungers unless very badly scored.
Any fuel dilution would likely come via leaking fuel transfer pump packing seals that may not be able to drain to ground due to blocked drain lines forcing the fuel to enter the engine lube system via the oil seal on the transfer pump drive shaft.
Later transfer pumps used 2 lip type seals instead of the packings.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

I guess I can pull the transfer pump easier than messing with the injection pump. Engine has been running great. Thanks.

the ultra low sulphur fuel doesn't do the old seal any favours a fuel lubricity additive is a good idea.

Been awhile. Got the transfer pump pulled off. Just checking on what I need to purchase?  Just the seal or other parts as well?  I couldn't find like a pump rebuild kit.  Also here's some pics of the pump.  There seems to be strong trace of fluorescent at the seam. 

Got the transfer pump broke down.  The shaft on the gear pump is pretty worn where the seals run.  And surprisingly I see parts are available.

 

well, the seals, shaft and bushing would be a start. bassically any wear parts and sealing parts are what you would replace. housings are generally not replaced unless badly worn or damaged.

Yeah no problems. Went thru my parts manual and ordered shaft, seals and bushings.  Got a replacement window too for the hour meter.

Alight Gents, got the transfer pump rebuilt and installed. I don't think it was the issue as my oil pressure is still low right after a sae 30 weight oil change.

So I took the oil pressure gauge off, hooked up one I had laying around. I found 40 psi on start up. Which is good. But once the oil get's hot it drops to near zero at idle and 20 psi at operating RPM. I am going to investigate the oil cooler. The oil seems smoking hot (literally) after the engine is warmed up . The crankcase is smoking like a chimney out the breather when it gets hot. I don't think it's blow by though, because it's not cho-choing like a train. Just not sure.

On a side note, I was having water temp overheating issues, but I pulled the thermostat and ran it without one. After an hour no more overheating. But the engine still warmed up. I put the old thermostat in hot water and it kind of opened at 180 but not much.