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Removing cat 12, 318 engine ??

Removing cat 12, 318 engine ??

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oldbeek
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I am building a spreader bar to remove my 318 engine. The lifting points on the rear will be the motor mount pads on each side of the bell housing. The front lift point will be the thermostat housing. Does anyone know about where the balance point will be ? Between 3 and 4? or farther back. Looks heavy to the rear to me.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 10:02 AM
edb
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Hi oldbeek,
at the Dealer we used the fabricated tool in the scan below, it may help.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 11:42 AM
kracked1
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If I remember right you take the power tower drive shaft out and slide the shaft forward as far as possible before removing the engine. I cant remember where we balanced at when replacing clutch.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 9:28 PM
oldbeek
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Reply to kracked1:
If I remember right you take the power tower drive shaft out and slide the shaft forward as far as possible before removing the engine. I cant remember where we balanced at when replacing clutch.
Thanks for the reminder. I was the shop supt. for 18 yrs and have been retired for 19 years so it has been 37 yrs since i actually did the hands on job of pulling one of these engines. At the shop i ran we lifted the whole chassis off and rolled it forward from the engine and axle bogge, before removing the engine. It was nice to have a 10 ton rolling crane and air conditioned shop.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 11:52 PM
ccjersey
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That lifting fixture sure looks like the ticket.

I did a couple of other grader engines, but never a D318. I thought the center of gravity of the engine in a tractor at least is offset toward the intake side of the head since the lifting eyes available for the D318 are mounted on front and rear corner of the head on intake side. With a lift straight from the center of the valve cover/rocker arm studs, you might want to add an additional lifting point on the intake side by using a come-a-long from your lifting hook down to a point on the intake manifold, oil pan flange etc to get the engine to hang straight. When you get the engine within about a foot of mating up to the clutch housing it will be resting on the center of the axle housing, so at that point it will not matter if it wants to hang exactly straight from the hoist.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Aug 21, 2016 2:05 AM
oldbeek
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Reply to edb:
Hi oldbeek,
at the Dealer we used the fabricated tool in the scan below, it may help.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
[quote="edb"]Hi oldbeek,
at the Dealer we used the fabricated tool in the scan below, it may help.
Cheers,
Eddie B.[/quote]

Thanks for this information. I am building one right now.
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Tue, Aug 23, 2016 8:44 AM
ccjersey
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When you are thinking about balance points, one thing different about a grader is that the radiator may be mounted directly to the engine so that if you can handle the weight, it is simpler to pull the whole skid at once.

I have never touched a 12 as old as yours, but the 53 model 212 that I pulled the engine out of had the radiator mounted direct to the engine and I have a D318 power unit that is made that way as well.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Aug 23, 2016 10:00 PM
oldbeek
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Reply to kracked1:
If I remember right you take the power tower drive shaft out and slide the shaft forward as far as possible before removing the engine. I cant remember where we balanced at when replacing clutch.


On this one the shaft stayed with the engine. Pulled engine back to the rear cross member and shaft was still not clear of the tranny. By looking at the bolts this rear cross member has never been removed, but clutch has been removed. I think i can remove the shaft attachment at the flywheel. Is there an aftermarket clutch plate rebuilder around?
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Fri, Aug 26, 2016 4:20 AM
neil
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Pete, do you think they might have any theories on the material to use if one wanted to run a bit of oil in a dry main or steering clutch?
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Fri, Aug 26, 2016 6:23 AM
captain k
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Reply to neil:
Pete, do you think they might have any theories on the material to use if one wanted to run a bit of oil in a dry main or steering clutch?
when I did my oil clutch 12 grader the power take off shaft stayed put in trans. should be able to pull it out the flywheel by hand. if its trashed you can probably unbolt the clutch and slide it on to pto shaft to get your engine out. general gear in Idaho has new clutch discs for oil type. they were about $80 five or so years ago


Captain K
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Fri, Aug 26, 2016 6:40 AM
oldbeek
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Reply to captain k:
when I did my oil clutch 12 grader the power take off shaft stayed put in trans. should be able to pull it out the flywheel by hand. if its trashed you can probably unbolt the clutch and slide it on to pto shaft to get your engine out. general gear in Idaho has new clutch discs for oil type. they were about $80 five or so years ago


Captain K
this is a dry clutch. The area that should be a pilot bearing is trashed and i will just take it apart and see what i have. I have the engine pulled back about 30 inches and the clutch is removed and slid back toward the trans. I can remove the whole flywheel from this position. Balance it with my small tractor then pull the engine with my big tractor. Where there is a will there is a way.
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Fri, Aug 26, 2016 1:12 PM
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