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what do yall recommend for flushing radiator

what do yall recommend for flushing radiator

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wlf89
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i got the trans temp on the dozer and used the dozer for about an hour the other day clearing a road to a spring and dammed it up a bit to hold the cows some water and the engine temp got up to about half way to the red mark and the trans temp only moved up a 1/4 or less, so hopping the trans is not overheating. while i got it here at the house still id like to try and flush the radiator out and see if that will help any before taking it back to start cleaning up ground again. i have heard to use vinegar,muriatic acid, or lye is about the best to use, what do yall recommend and how would be the best way to do it? im thinking would want to remove the hoses and plug them before filling the radiator to keep all the crud from going into the engine correct? here is the picture of the top of the radiator hope the inside isnt that bad but never know.
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Sun, Aug 14, 2016 1:16 AM
Magard
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I just use dawn dish soap and leave it in and run it awhile. Make sure the outside is clean. Blow with air low psi. Make sure fins are straight. I think the soap makes the water wetter. I just don't like putting corrosives in old engines or radiators.
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Sun, Aug 14, 2016 3:31 AM
ccjersey
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I expect the inside of the engine looks about the same, so best to put your flush in and run the tractor until it gets good and hot or even all day if you use a mild flush like citric acid/citrate. Then drain the radiator and block drain before flushing out with clear water.

Sounds like yours is not too bad if it didn't get "in the red" hot pushing dirt.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Aug 14, 2016 6:29 AM
Walt D7-3T
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Reply to ccjersey:
I expect the inside of the engine looks about the same, so best to put your flush in and run the tractor until it gets good and hot or even all day if you use a mild flush like citric acid/citrate. Then drain the radiator and block drain before flushing out with clear water.

Sounds like yours is not too bad if it didn't get "in the red" hot pushing dirt.
Here is an extra thought.

Whatever you use to flush the cooling system, I think the engine, whether a Cat or other internal combustion engine, should be run it until fully heated and for a few hours or even longer. THEN, drain the whole system several times and put clean water in the system each time and run the engine several times again, with fresh clean water each time and THEN drain it all again and then put new water/coolant mix in and you should be done.

That is what I'd do.
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Sun, Aug 14, 2016 8:10 AM
wlf89
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Reply to Walt D7-3T:
Here is an extra thought.

Whatever you use to flush the cooling system, I think the engine, whether a Cat or other internal combustion engine, should be run it until fully heated and for a few hours or even longer. THEN, drain the whole system several times and put clean water in the system each time and run the engine several times again, with fresh clean water each time and THEN drain it all again and then put new water/coolant mix in and you should be done.

That is what I'd do.
took the top tank off today and about half of the tubes are stopped up, any ideas what i could use to rod it out with?
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Mon, Aug 15, 2016 1:47 AM
neil
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Reply to wlf89:
took the top tank off today and about half of the tubes are stopped up, any ideas what i could use to rod it out with?


I used the fuel tank dipstick on my D2 - width and thickness fit perfectly although it was a couple of inches short
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Mon, Aug 15, 2016 2:13 AM
daron
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To rod out a Thirty radiator I used ~3' of "Signoid" type steel pallet strapping. It was ~1/2" wide X 1/32" thick. Don't remember if I folded over the lower end though (it was in the early 1960's).

Daron
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Mon, Aug 15, 2016 3:43 AM
Andrew
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Reply to daron:
To rod out a Thirty radiator I used ~3' of "Signoid" type steel pallet strapping. It was ~1/2" wide X 1/32" thick. Don't remember if I folded over the lower end though (it was in the early 1960's).

Daron
If you can find one. An old band saw blade is the best. Grind the teeth off until it fits easily down the tubes .
If they are badly blocked use a piece of brass welding wire first to break through.
As stated earlier a length of pallet strapping ground to the suitable width works also.
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Mon, Aug 15, 2016 4:54 AM
wlf89
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Reply to daron:
To rod out a Thirty radiator I used ~3' of "Signoid" type steel pallet strapping. It was ~1/2" wide X 1/32" thick. Don't remember if I folded over the lower end though (it was in the early 1960's).

Daron
ok, just roded all out but 3. started with the dipstick out of my truck and finished with the dozer dipstick. probly around 25 tubes that was stopped up on down inside and around half of them with crud plugging them up on the very top. on the 3 that i do like how hard can i poke them, im afraid to give them to much of a blow. the tank doesnt look bad other than the filler neck, and when i rebuilt the engine the water jackets that i could see didnt look to bad either.
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Mon, Aug 15, 2016 5:46 AM
ccjersey
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Plumb a garden hose into the drain in the lower radiator pipe and turn it on just enough to push all the debris up out of the flues as you rod them out. Helps to determine which are plugged and when you have gotten them open etc. Doesn't need to spray up like a fountain, just well up and pour off the top plate.

I used the stainless steel strips from a minivan wiper blade to rod the last one I did. It was still a little short on the D6 so I silver soldered another foot onto it. Whatever you use, bend a little L on top so it doesn't drop in and you loose it!

I got only maybe 90% of the tubes open even using the thin stainless strips, but the tractor stayed cool just fine after that.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Aug 15, 2016 5:47 AM
ccjersey
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Looks good! I say don't go for broke on the last few flues. Just not worth having to fix a leak.

I found the same as you on both of the ones I did. A double handful of rust flakes laying on the top of the core.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Aug 15, 2016 5:53 AM
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