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D3C Brake adjust

D3C Brake adjust

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drujinin
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A fellow called me the other day and asked if I knew how to adjust the clutches/brakes on a D3C. I told him that its pretty new to me to be working on but would try to find out. I was smart enough to ask him if they were wet or dry clutch/brakes. He said he does know they are dry which puts it in the early serial number range. Anybody willing to help me out?
Thanks, Jeff
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Fri, Jun 3, 2016 6:28 PM
Old Magnet
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For brakes only.....
Pedal free play 5-6 inches.
Lift seat and look for cover over adjuster or some have extensions up near the seat.
Remove cover if it has one and turn screw until tight.
Loosen brake support screw (under tractor).
Tighten support screw until it just touches brake drum,
back out screw 1-1/2 turns and tighten lock nut.
Back out adjusting screw approximately 3-1/2 turns (replace cover)
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Fri, Jun 3, 2016 9:59 PM
drujinin
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Reply to Old Magnet:
For brakes only.....
Pedal free play 5-6 inches.
Lift seat and look for cover over adjuster or some have extensions up near the seat.
Remove cover if it has one and turn screw until tight.
Loosen brake support screw (under tractor).
Tighten support screw until it just touches brake drum,
back out screw 1-1/2 turns and tighten lock nut.
Back out adjusting screw approximately 3-1/2 turns (replace cover)
Thanks OM!
Now as long as the Steering Clutches don't need adjustment!
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Sat, Jun 4, 2016 2:43 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to drujinin:
Thanks OM!
Now as long as the Steering Clutches don't need adjustment!
That is a combined steering clutch/brake pedal operation and linkage is a fussy operation. Going to have to get access to a service manual to adjust the combination. Service manuals for the D3 are way pricey.

It the steering clutch/s are not releasing completely before the brakes come on, check those mickey mouse roller bearings on the ends of the steering valves. They are a high failure item.
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Sat, Jun 4, 2016 3:52 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That is a combined steering clutch/brake pedal operation and linkage is a fussy operation. Going to have to get access to a service manual to adjust the combination. Service manuals for the D3 are way pricey.

It the steering clutch/s are not releasing completely before the brakes come on, check those mickey mouse roller bearings on the ends of the steering valves. They are a high failure item.
I have the service manual for my D3B and yes it is a fussy sequence---Bob/0ntario had given me a slight variation on the sequence and i have it stuffed away somewhere--main concern was those roller bearings on the end of the steering valves.

Jeff--i am not sure if an early serial # puts it in a dry clutch area as my D3B is a wet clutch and it doesn't have the bolt on the bottom to hold the brake band up?
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Sat, Jun 4, 2016 4:46 AM
drujinin
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Reply to dpendzic:
I have the service manual for my D3B and yes it is a fussy sequence---Bob/0ntario had given me a slight variation on the sequence and i have it stuffed away somewhere--main concern was those roller bearings on the end of the steering valves.

Jeff--i am not sure if an early serial # puts it in a dry clutch area as my D3B is a wet clutch and it doesn't have the bolt on the bottom to hold the brake band up?
I made it a point to ask if it was wet clutch or dry clutch. Using the search function netted a maybe(?) it is based on serial number. I'll talk to him this weekend as I told him I would research it to find out as many secrets as I could before I come over. He isn't in too big of a hurry as it only has 2800 hours on the meter. So it isn't a production machine but a farmer machine.
If you think of the variation that Ontario Bob gave you I would appreciate it.
Jeff
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Sat, Jun 4, 2016 9:30 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to drujinin:
I made it a point to ask if it was wet clutch or dry clutch. Using the search function netted a maybe(?) it is based on serial number. I'll talk to him this weekend as I told him I would research it to find out as many secrets as I could before I come over. He isn't in too big of a hurry as it only has 2800 hours on the meter. So it isn't a production machine but a farmer machine.
If you think of the variation that Ontario Bob gave you I would appreciate it.
Jeff
Serial number or not, check for the brake support screw under the tractor. Only the dry brakes have it.
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Sat, Jun 4, 2016 10:24 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Serial number or not, check for the brake support screw under the tractor. Only the dry brakes have it.
This is what Bob had sent me:

Hi Dan, hope this clears up a bit of confusion. The only clutches that have
a brake band support bolt are the dry clutches, normally found on machines
with the 3F 1R transmissions. The oil clutches should have a 1/4NPT allen
head plug to check oil level on each side near the Final Drive level plug.
With the dry clutches if the brake bands where too tight they would lock up and
stop you. Unfortunatly with the oil clutches if the linkage was too loose
and you adjust the peddal travel to spec the band will run tight and ruin the
band and clutch drum. The bearings that fail on the valves are on the spool
ends, when they fall apart they reduce spool travel and release pressure.
Should be a pair of diamond shaped covers over the brake adjustment screws.
Now some had a 9/16"hex coming through the covers and later ones had them
extended up beside the seat. To get everything right, adjust the brakes as
tight as you can get them, back off adjustment 1& 1/2 turns, then adjust the
brake rods as short as you can and still get the pins into the rod ends. The
slack off brake adjustment untill you get the right peddal travel. THe clutch
linkage is adjusted so you have about 0.027" between the roller on the spool
and the cam. Inside adjustment is only to get piston in location so it will
have travel. Later machines use solid push rod.
Later Bob
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Sat, Jun 4, 2016 10:46 AM
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