d4 2t stuck main clutch

Any clutch lining chunks laying in the bottom of the housing? Could have a piece stacked in the clutch and keeping it locked. I think the D4 adjustment can come loose and wind itself looser or tighter as it turns, but if the clutch lever snaps in and out normally, it is most likely just stuck.

Any way you could shove it in a higher gear to start it up and then really load it somehow. If nothing else, use the pusher machine to load it by chaining the two together. Or you can securely block or tie both steering clutch levers back and start it up with the transmission in a high gear. Keep the main clutch lever disengaged (forward) while you drive it around. The high gear puts the most strain on the transmission clutch to break it loose. In a low gear you are going to have to find some way to really work it.

I had a large farm tractor that was stuck last spring. I was able to crank it up in gear by defeating the interlock, but only in one of the lower gears, so it took a big load to work it. Luckily it was already hooked to a plow. Probably covered an acre or so before it broke free. I was already tired of holding the clutch in when it let go with a bang. With the hand clutch you won't have that problem, just leave it in the disengaged position while you work it.

I dont have enough space to drive it or another tractor to push it. Dose the clutch have a spring to push it out of the flywheel? There is some rust on the flywheel gears.

There is no spring to push the plates apart. The linkage on the transmission side of the clutch over centers to lock the clutch in. My RD6 clutch was stuck a week ago it would snap over center but it took a real hard pull. I soaked in pb blaster for a couple of days. I loosened the lock bolt to adjust the clutch so I could back the adjustment off. I ended up taking a long bar and kept tapping it on the clutch adjuster to get it to back off. In the process the clutch broke free.

Ahh im kinda lost i have no idea how the clutch works in this thing lol

Chevydozer, it's an over-center clutch. What that means is that the links between the engagement collar (that your clutch lever pushes on) move just past "over-center" when you engage the clutch (think of a load-binder twitch or hood latch for example). The clutch is adjusted so that when engaged, the collar is just past over-center meaning that the compression on the links from going over center is not fully relieved, thus applying pressure on the pressure plate to hold the clutch closed (there has to be a better way of describing this... : ) That is, it doesn't rely on your standard spring arrangement to hold the clutch engaged, but instead relies on the spring effect from compressing those links as it goes over center. My D2 has three very small springs on the pressure plate whose job is to keep the pressure plate separated from the driven plate when disengaged, but it's your lever and thrust collar that are responsible for the actual disengagement. Ok, enough of the poor explanation; here's a couple of videos that shows the clutch disengaging and engaging (collar pushed toward pressure plate = engaged - notice how those links move just past center when engaged. They're compressed at this point and trying to release that compression by pushing further forward, which of course puts more pressure on the pressure plate holding the driven plate engaged)

Disengaging - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMqMYGAJWAc

Engaging - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYYlJwaUCF0

The three small springs on the other pressure plate that try to separate the three plates (two pressure and one driven) when disengaged - picture shows them (well, the rods that they bear on) compressed as the clutch is currently engaged):

[attachment=34516]IMG_2484.JPG[/attachment]

Im still kinda lost i cant tell whats engaging and disengaging i need to see how the gears or clutch is working and thanks for the reply and i have the drive shaft off now can i take it apart more to unstick this thing

Once you get it apart and work it by hand, you'll see how it works. Apologies for the poor explanation! : )

When you say "driveshaft", do you mean a coupling between clutch and transmission?

Never been into a D4 of any stripe much less a 2T, but as I remember the deal with the D4 is you have to take the whole transmission and clutch compartment cover off to get to the clutch. Once you are in there, you should be able to remove the coupling between clutch output shaft and transmission input shaft and remove clutch if necessary.

I would encourage you to see if you can't lube up the release bearing and clutch levers etc and see if you can get that snapping in and out of engagement before you remove the clutch. Might have to adjust the clutch or fix some worn out pins and linkages so there isn't too much slack in things that the clutch won't snap in and out when you move the lever.

There are instructions to saw the transmission/clutch cover in two so that it is much easier to remove the clutch cover only the next time you need to get in there. I think later models came from the factory with separate covers? Still, you are better off with the D4 than an early D2 where the engine has to come out to access the clutch.