I'm stilll waiting on service manuals and not quite sure which way to go. I'm trying to remove the manifold but with the studs it will hit the compression release shaft coming out of the back of the diesel engine when I try to remove it. If I remove the pony motor it looks like the bottom mounting studs will give me the same issue I won't be able to come up high enough to clear the studs before it hits the shaft. I thought about removing the studs but would probably mess them up since they are fine thread. Do you have to remove the compression release lever and shaft?

I also need to either repair or replace (if anybody might have one for sale) the water elbow pipe from the pony to diesel engine. The pipe that is in it has been brazed in. The pipe is rusted bad but I think the dimension is 1.125" if somebody could verify that would be great.

Someone else might know something I don't, but, I think you'll have to loosen the nuts enough to tip the pony motor far enough back to remove the intake. Only thing, you'll risk damaging the gasket and not re-sealing on the bottom of the pony. Your best bet for the elbow assembly is to call John at tractorparts.com and he'll probably be able to fix you up. (Caterpillar part # is 4F2656) Be careful about used ones though; alot of the elbows are like yours (rusted away where they attach to the main motor). You're correct, the dimension on mine is also 1.125" O.D. You could repair but it's not as easy as using a 3/4" or 1" steel pipe nipple; both have different O.D.'s. I think they make steel tubing (different than steel pipe) that has an O.D. of 1.125". You can get the O ring for the elbow from Cat (4F5607).

This is a decent source for small amounts of tube.

www.onlinemetals.com/

You should tilt pony to remove from studs.. I had to remove compression release rod between pony and diesel to pull pony out...Wasn't bad except that one stud between blocks holding pony,i had to make my own socket to fit down in there...Gaskets are still available at a local cat dealer..Good luck

tom,
take the elbow two your favorite fabrication shop and have them braze in a new piece, or if you have the tools acquire tubing and do it yourself.

There are 8 studs and two dowel pins that secure the pony to the main.

drain coolant all as the water jacket continues out the bottom of the pony motor.

you may be time, money and effort ahead by waiting for your manuals.

Cheers
Dudley

Hi Tom,
from memory to get the pony inlet manifold off you do need to remove the Diesel Eng :-rocker cover, rocker gear--this from memory comes off along with the aluminium spacer piece as the de-comp cam rod runs through the spacer and the rocker posts, no big deal really as it is easier than pulling the pony.
Others have covered the water elbow by sweating in a new piece of tube/pipe as needed.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

I have the elbow 4f2650 <a href="This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it." target="_blank">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

I would advise against removing the pony manifold unless you are sure you really have to. The valves can be inspected by pulling the heads. I removed a pony manifold a few years back and found nothing really wrong in there, I am ashamed to say it took me years to get it back together again. In the meanwhile I lost the use of the tractor and rodents built a nest in one of the cylinders of the main engine. Luckily I was able to blow all the stuff out of there.

Tom

I decided to pull the pony motor and it wasn't too bad of a job once you dug all the dirt and grease away from the nuts. I removed the intake and checked the clearance between the lifter and valve stem. the exhaust had .006" and .007" but the intake had very little play, my feeler gauge only went down to .005" and it wouldn't fit. a normal piece of paper wouldn't fit but a thin receipt slip would, so I'm guessing about .001" to .002" clearance. If you look in the intake port it appears clean, you would think if the intake valve was staying open a little it would have carbon in it. Can someone tell me the spec. for the valve clearance. and if I do need to grind the valve stems how bad is it to get the valve stem keepers off. Already have all the parts. I was suprised that all of the seals and gaskets are still available from Cat. Thanks for any help.

Clearance (cold- both intake and exhaust) - .007" - .010"
Exhaust valves
Stem clearance in bushing - .003" - .005"
Max permissible clearance in busing (w/ new valve) - .007"
Valve seat angle - 45 degrees

Intake valves
Stem clearance in bushing - .0015" - .003"
Max permissible clearance in bushing (w/ new valve) - .005"
Valve seat angle - 45 degrees

The valves have stem type keepers on the lifter end. On the opposite end under the spring is a C shaped retainer with a tab on it. Pry back slightly on the spring and the retainer should be able to be pulled out easy with a pair of pliers. When the C shaped retainer is removed, the valve/spring will come out as an assembly and then can be further disassembled. Be sure to mark where all the parts went so they can be returned to the same places they originally became seated. When you re-install the valves, be sure to give them a pry from one end and a few raps with a rubber or rawhide mallet from the other to make sure the keepers are completely seated. Inspect the C shaped retainer and make sure it is completely in the slightly recessed area. Also, while you have everything removed and apart, it's a good idea to use a pressure washer to blast out all parts of the water jacket (especially the heads). I was amazed how much sediment I flushed out of mine...I guess because the pony is furthest from the water pump and due to the decreased coolant velocity, this is where all the trash settles out.