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D11 N Problems

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AS Khan Ripping
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hi everyone.i got a problem with my caterpillar d11 n.well i do commercial deep ripping in central california.
well the problem is that the cat is pulling towards the right side.i put new segments and changed the shank and usually change the boot and sineguard.the cat is getting 7 foot deep rips.well it goes straight while no load on it,though after the shank goes gets put down it starts to pull usually to the right side.if not then it goes straight.well we think its the something with the ripper pocket or shank.holt thinks its nothing major.
i dont have any counter weight or blade because of transport issues.any help would be thankful.thank you for your time
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Sat, Dec 29, 2007 9:28 AM
B4D2
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A&S, Ag-Mike has a sub soiler he pulls with a D4 7U. He has some big shanks for a small tractor, but it pulls good. We spent some time checking the alignment of the bar the shanks are mounted to. A D11N is a whole different animal than a D4 7U, but maybe scale up the assembly and see if that's an issue. One shank deeper than the other = more drag on one side of the machine? Worn clutches slipping on one side of the tractor? Brake dragging? A million possibles. Good luck.
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Sat, Dec 29, 2007 9:37 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to B4D2:
A&S, Ag-Mike has a sub soiler he pulls with a D4 7U. He has some big shanks for a small tractor, but it pulls good. We spent some time checking the alignment of the bar the shanks are mounted to. A D11N is a whole different animal than a D4 7U, but maybe scale up the assembly and see if that's an issue. One shank deeper than the other = more drag on one side of the machine? Worn clutches slipping on one side of the tractor? Brake dragging? A million possibles. Good luck.
B4D2,
You're kidding...right😉 😉
What part of this are you going to compare to ag mikes D4-7U.........
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Sat, Dec 29, 2007 10:13 AM
§wishy
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Reply to Old Magnet:
B4D2,
You're kidding...right😉 😉
What part of this are you going to compare to ag mikes D4-7U.........
[b]OlMag
GuddayM8

Me thinks Beef 4 has been drinkn the sheery ment for the xams pudn
LOL


RE: What part of this are you going to compare to ag mikes D4-7U

B about equivelent to a cupla growsers worth
LOL
cya
§wishy
HasBeen[/b]
[CENTER]🙄 - : [B]ButEyeDoSt&2BCorrected : - 😛
Ifn U Get my Drift[/b]
😮 [/CENTER]
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Sat, Dec 29, 2007 10:50 AM
edb
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Reply to §wishy:
[b]OlMag
GuddayM8

Me thinks Beef 4 has been drinkn the sheery ment for the xams pudn
LOL


RE: What part of this are you going to compare to ag mikes D4-7U

B about equivelent to a cupla growsers worth
LOL
cya
§wishy
HasBeen[/b]
Hi A&S,
turning under ripping load could be as stated above from a slipping clutch. To check for this mark the Final drive hubs both sides with a chalk mark or similar on the outer cover plate at say the 12 O'clock positions, drive the machine until you have turned in the usual arc and see if the chalk marks are still aligned to each other, if not aligned your clutch will have slipped and be out of time to each other.
If Ok then we have several possibilities.
One track chain stretched more than the other--usually one or two dry joints wearing, this makes one track longer and therefore that side will be slower.
Failing bush and pin in one side of the lower ripper frame pivots, causing the beam and therefore the shank to be pulled to one side and steer the machine due to the misalignment, like a rudder, similar from a twisted or unevenly worn shank, boot or protector.
Worn front track frame pin/bearing at the hard bar joint--track frame can toe in or out and steer the unit. Same from rear main pivot bar to track frame bearings--if you are loosing oil excassively from the pivot bar oil reservoir it may be a sign of wear to this joint and seals.
These are a few things that come to mind in 40deg Cel temp here today.
Hope this helps and promps some more input to your problem.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Dec 29, 2007 3:34 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to edb:
Hi A&S,
turning under ripping load could be as stated above from a slipping clutch. To check for this mark the Final drive hubs both sides with a chalk mark or similar on the outer cover plate at say the 12 O'clock positions, drive the machine until you have turned in the usual arc and see if the chalk marks are still aligned to each other, if not aligned your clutch will have slipped and be out of time to each other.
If Ok then we have several possibilities.
One track chain stretched more than the other--usually one or two dry joints wearing, this makes one track longer and therefore that side will be slower.
Failing bush and pin in one side of the lower ripper frame pivots, causing the beam and therefore the shank to be pulled to one side and steer the machine due to the misalignment, like a rudder, similar from a twisted or unevenly worn shank, boot or protector.
Worn front track frame pin/bearing at the hard bar joint--track frame can toe in or out and steer the unit. Same from rear main pivot bar to track frame bearings--if you are loosing oil excassively from the pivot bar oil reservoir it may be a sign of wear to this joint and seals.
These are a few things that come to mind in 40deg Cel temp here today.
Hope this helps and promps some more input to your problem.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
There is no mention of how severe the pulling is.....also what is the condition of the undercarriage. Should be able to read what's going on from worn/shiny surfaces on the inside of the track chains, rollers and front and rear idler flanges if the cause is an undercarriage condition.
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Sat, Dec 29, 2007 11:37 PM
B4D2
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Reply to Old Magnet:
B4D2,
You're kidding...right😉 😉
What part of this are you going to compare to ag mikes D4-7U.........
[quote="Old Magnet"]B4D2,
You're kidding...right😉 😉
What part of this are you going to compare to ag mikes D4-7U.........[/quote]

The pointy part that goes in the ground smarty pants 😄
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Sun, Dec 30, 2007 11:24 AM
cr
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Reply to B4D2:
[quote="Old Magnet"]B4D2,
You're kidding...right😉 😉
What part of this are you going to compare to ag mikes D4-7U.........[/quote]

The pointy part that goes in the ground smarty pants 😄
After reading your post about changing the shin guard and boot. Are you running mutiple shanks or you pulling a slip plow? I know from running toolbars on cats used for listing you can really see a diffrence if you have any UC wear, but the problems that show up while trying to hold a stright line don't really bother the operator while doing open ground work. If it is under a really heavy load while the cat is grunting, I would suspect a slipping steering clutch as ETB suggested.

I would suspect you are really busy right now with all the almonds going in right now. My family is planning on planting a few blocks depending on the water suituation in Westlands and Semi Tropic. There is a lot of acres being planted by Middle East Developers right now on the Westside of Fresno, Merced and Stanislaus counties right now, most of them are just shot gunning the trees in, and they are not even running a chisel through there.
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Mon, Dec 31, 2007 2:47 AM
AS Khan Ripping
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Reply to cr:
After reading your post about changing the shin guard and boot. Are you running mutiple shanks or you pulling a slip plow? I know from running toolbars on cats used for listing you can really see a diffrence if you have any UC wear, but the problems that show up while trying to hold a stright line don't really bother the operator while doing open ground work. If it is under a really heavy load while the cat is grunting, I would suspect a slipping steering clutch as ETB suggested.

I would suspect you are really busy right now with all the almonds going in right now. My family is planning on planting a few blocks depending on the water suituation in Westlands and Semi Tropic. There is a lot of acres being planted by Middle East Developers right now on the Westside of Fresno, Merced and Stanislaus counties right now, most of them are just shot gunning the trees in, and they are not even running a chisel through there.
yes we did find out the problem.the bushings and pins keep going out because they were not oiled and plugged properly.because of that there is gap different gaps in between each link.so we are deciding to stop the machine for 1 week hopefully and send it over to Holt of California to get the bushings and pins done over.because our other D11 has gotten 32 inch tracks and grousers,so we are thinking of getting them on this one as well.well i want to thank everyone for there time and information.

IS THE D11 T HAVE THE MOST POWER OUTPUT OF ALL THE D11's?IM THINKING OF BUYING THE D11 T CD-R AND WANT TO KNOW THE INFORMATION ON IT
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Sat, Jan 5, 2008 4:42 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to AS Khan Ripping:
yes we did find out the problem.the bushings and pins keep going out because they were not oiled and plugged properly.because of that there is gap different gaps in between each link.so we are deciding to stop the machine for 1 week hopefully and send it over to Holt of California to get the bushings and pins done over.because our other D11 has gotten 32 inch tracks and grousers,so we are thinking of getting them on this one as well.well i want to thank everyone for there time and information.

IS THE D11 T HAVE THE MOST POWER OUTPUT OF ALL THE D11's?IM THINKING OF BUYING THE D11 T CD-R AND WANT TO KNOW THE INFORMATION ON IT
850hp......Opr. Wt 230,100 lbs
http://cmms.cat.com/cmms/servlet/cat.dcs.cmms.servlet.DynamicImageServlet?imageid=C345626&imageType=7
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 1:06 AM
edb
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Hi A&S,
thanks for the update on your run off problem and the video you posted.
WE can HEAR the DRY Joints in each Track Protesting when under load, and could see the run off arc in one of the shots.
High drive only became feasable with the advent of the SALT (Sealed And Lubricated Track) system due to the extra high joint loadings, and hence wear rates, of this system. So when sealing fails and lube is lost destruction of the joint (pin & bush) is unmercifully quick.
A cheap infra red temp sensing gun is a quick way of checking the joint temperatures when ever the unit stops for lunch, smoko, service time, etc.
You can use a hand also but if you find a failed joint expect a burned hand from it!!!!! BE Careful. Use the back of your fingers near the end of each pin and feel for the heat before touching skin to metal.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 2:41 PM
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