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D4 hydraulic pump repair

D4 hydraulic pump repair

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Mike Meyer
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I'm working on my D4 2T right now and I think I need to replace the seals in the hydraulic pump because when I got her going for the first time with the expert help of Eddie Bedwell I'd filled the transmission with fresh oil and after running the engine for a hour the level in the tranny had gone up about 2 gallons while the level in the hydraulic pump had gone down, so either I'm the luckiest guy in Oz and have a oil producing Cat, or the seals in that pump need replacing!

Can someone please give me some guidance on how to proceed on repairing this pump, the first obvious question is does it need to be removed from the tractor?
Thanks
Mike
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Fri, Aug 28, 2015 3:32 AM
Mike Meyer
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OK, so I got busy and pulled the pump apart today and found a older bronze repair on the input shaft where a modern style plastic oil seal had been fitted but it had split allowing oil back into the tractors transmission, can someone please post a picture or parts diagram of the type of seals that were in this Armstrong Holland No. 3 pump originally and a suggestion of the best type to buy now, I'll need to fit a Speedi Sleeve to the shaft to repair the old seal damage but I think the bronze bushes and bearings look OK, not that I'm any expert on these pumps, the shaft measures 1.25".
Thanks
Mike
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Sat, Aug 29, 2015 7:04 PM
ccjersey
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The usual design on something like that would have an o-ring or other packing next to the bearing beside the high pressure chamber and then a drain off back into the suction channel inside of the external oil seal. This keeps the oil seal from getting much pressure, but it does have to hold the static head pressure of the oil in the reservoir. If internal seal is bad or bushings are worn, the external seal may get blown.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Aug 29, 2015 8:17 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
The usual design on something like that would have an o-ring or other packing next to the bearing beside the high pressure chamber and then a drain off back into the suction channel inside of the external oil seal. This keeps the oil seal from getting much pressure, but it does have to hold the static head pressure of the oil in the reservoir. If internal seal is bad or bushings are worn, the external seal may get blown.
Probably just a plain ol lip type seal. Good luck finding info on that orphan pump.
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 12:36 AM
B4D2
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Probably just a plain ol lip type seal. Good luck finding info on that orphan pump.
Mike, a Google search brought up this thread from Red Power http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/61424-td-14a-pics/ It's a slim lead, but from what I saw there, and from your photos, the Armstrong Holland is Aussie made under license from Bucyrus Erie. Your lift arms look just like the BE arms from bulldozer setups here. The BE setup was common on IH machines. General Gear seems to have some old hydraulic parts so you could try there. Also, considering BE is now a Caterpillar company, maybe just maybe your friendly parts counter guy would be helpful. I know, a long shot, but at least it's something.
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 4:38 AM
Ray54
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Probably just a plain ol lip type seal. Good luck finding info on that orphan pump.
I would think a 3 part seal with a spring and a bushing with a square rubber ring inside like what is used in a Bee Gee pump could be adapted .Associated tractor in Stockton has had the original style seals for Bee Gee pumps,but very pricey compared to the lip seal . I have used lip seals in several pumps,for different reasons they didn't stay around long term so I will not guess how long they will last .
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 4:55 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to Ray54:
I would think a 3 part seal with a spring and a bushing with a square rubber ring inside like what is used in a Bee Gee pump could be adapted .Associated tractor in Stockton has had the original style seals for Bee Gee pumps,but very pricey compared to the lip seal . I have used lip seals in several pumps,for different reasons they didn't stay around long term so I will not guess how long they will last .
Thankyou guys for chiming in, I've been looking at Google the past 24 hours trying to find some info on Armstrong Holland pumps without success, I've added some photo's I took yesterday showing the conventional lip seal someone had fitted previously and you might be able to see the crack in the lip, I'm assuming a special high pressure seal should have been used there, or even a double stack of seals, that is why I was interested in seeing the original seal design because it would have been leather wouldn't it, from 1941?

In the second photo you will see a large locking nut sitting in behind a bearing, that nut has come loose and was probably rattling around in there, other than that the bearings look OK to me and the shaft is snug in that bronze housing, but controlling the pressure in that drive shaft tunnel back towards the transmission is what is concerning me because as Jim says there might be a O ring or similar seal helping a conventional lip type seal, and in just an hour running the tractor for the first time it pumped about 4 gallons of 30W oil back into the tractors transmission.
Thanks again
Mike
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 5:08 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Thankyou guys for chiming in, I've been looking at Google the past 24 hours trying to find some info on Armstrong Holland pumps without success, I've added some photo's I took yesterday showing the conventional lip seal someone had fitted previously and you might be able to see the crack in the lip, I'm assuming a special high pressure seal should have been used there, or even a double stack of seals, that is why I was interested in seeing the original seal design because it would have been leather wouldn't it, from 1941?

In the second photo you will see a large locking nut sitting in behind a bearing, that nut has come loose and was probably rattling around in there, other than that the bearings look OK to me and the shaft is snug in that bronze housing, but controlling the pressure in that drive shaft tunnel back towards the transmission is what is concerning me because as Jim says there might be a O ring or similar seal helping a conventional lip type seal, and in just an hour running the tractor for the first time it pumped about 4 gallons of 30W oil back into the tractors transmission.
Thanks again
Mike
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I've added some more photo's to show the lip seal and how they had it set up on the shaft, you will see a red hard plastic washer was used to push the seal onto a less worn section of the shaft and that washer was also used to attempt to help seal the drive shaft tunnel as the old seal was only 2" in outer diameter while the requirement to fit snugly in the machined seal bore is 2.5" in outer diameter, with a inner shaft diameter of 1.25", is there such a lip seal size or will I need to get a steel or brass or aluminum sleeve machined for the seal bore to bring the outer diameter back down to something like 1.5"?

I'll use a Speedi Sleeve to repair that wear on the shaft though will that groove need filling with JB Weld first?
Thanks
Mike
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 5:39 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to B4D2:
Mike, a Google search brought up this thread from Red Power http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/61424-td-14a-pics/ It's a slim lead, but from what I saw there, and from your photos, the Armstrong Holland is Aussie made under license from Bucyrus Erie. Your lift arms look just like the BE arms from bulldozer setups here. The BE setup was common on IH machines. General Gear seems to have some old hydraulic parts so you could try there. Also, considering BE is now a Caterpillar company, maybe just maybe your friendly parts counter guy would be helpful. I know, a long shot, but at least it's something.


Thanks Bruce for that link, nice to see you posting again, though I must confess that is the first time I've seen that Red Power site and I might need a stiff cocktail to recover my senses!:eyebrows:

I'll be buying 2 new final drive bellow seals for this D4 from General Gear so I'll talk to John about this seal issue too if I can't solve it here in Oz first.
Regards
Mike
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 6:14 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to Mike Meyer:


Thanks Bruce for that link, nice to see you posting again, though I must confess that is the first time I've seen that Red Power site and I might need a stiff cocktail to recover my senses!:eyebrows:

I'll be buying 2 new final drive bellow seals for this D4 from General Gear so I'll talk to John about this seal issue too if I can't solve it here in Oz first.
Regards
Mike
you might look into the sort of seal used on a hyd spinner motor from a fertilizer spreader truck. They have a series of three or more flaps to the inside and a lip seal for ingress. They are fairly tough, but I have replaced a few due to rusted or worn shafts.
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 6:34 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to STEPHEN:
you might look into the sort of seal used on a hyd spinner motor from a fertilizer spreader truck. They have a series of three or more flaps to the inside and a lip seal for ingress. They are fairly tough, but I have replaced a few due to rusted or worn shafts.


Hi Stephen, thanks for the suggestion.
Regards
Mike
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Sun, Aug 30, 2015 7:10 AM
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