D2 clutch grinding

Could just need adjusting.........the usual test is if the lever snaps over center as you pull it into engagement. Should take a firm pull to snap it in. If not, pull the little lock button on the back of the clutch and rotate the adjuster plate clockwise a couple inches and recheck the pull.

The fiber disk has teeth molded around the outside that engage a ring gear bolted to the back of the engine flywheel. These teeth can shear off and then the disk no longer turns with the engine (or in your case., no longer turns the engine).

Should be able to get an indication that the disk is gone by the accumulation of dust and fiber debris in the bottom of the clutch compartment as well as the engaged clutch turning independent of the flywheel outer rim.

If its snapping in and still won't turn the engine, its got to come out. Late model tractors have the clutch that can come out the top without pulling the engine, but before 5U13237?? or thereabouts, the engine must be removed. Clutch discs are readily available from aftermarket suppliers.

Yep did my D2 4U clutch two winters ago. The repair itself is easy, but splitting the machine in two to get at it was rather time-consuming.
New clutch disc was $160. I could tell mine was shot by all the teeth that sheared off the disc laying in the bottom of the compartment.

G

Sad part of it is, that the clutch damage may have occurred when trying to pull it in 1st gear, not once but twice.

It may have but id say it was already stuffed as I was talking to the bloke who worked for the farmer who owned the dozer and he said the clutch had a major problem that's why it was parked there, I thought maybe it was adjustment or something simple but after talking to you guys about it it sounds like it is a major problem.

Has anyone had experience replacing the clutch in a 4u? any info would help
cheers

Sad part of it is, that the clutch damage may have occurred when trying to pull it in 1st gear, not once but twice.

Yep-if it was being towed in 1st faster than it would run in 1st, the clutch disk was overspeeded. I saw a youtube video once of a bunch of drunks doing a hill-climb with an old IH dozer-it stalled out, he clutched it, & it rolled backwards in gear...the clutch exploded...
Not saying that's what happened with yours, just noting that it can happen.

Hi, take the clutch top cover off and look at the shaft between the clutch and the transmission. If it has a two-piece coupling, then you can remove that and pull the clutch components out the hole without removing the engine. If it has a straight shaft, then block the sprockets up on 12" blocks so that the front of the tractor is "pointing down". Then loosen the equalizer spring mounting bolts on each side of the engine block and lift the front of the tractor up so that it rises up away from the front idlers. This will give you the room to remove the equalizer spring. Then you can work on removing the engine so you can change out the clutch. If you don't already have one, get a service man's book that covers your serial #, which gives the instructions you need on what to remove. You can often find them on eBay (someone else might be able to chime in with the form #. This is an example of what you need but this manual most likely applies to the non-two piece clutch shaft - if you look at his third picture it actually shows the clutch - http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterpillar-D2-Tractor-Dozer-Crawler-Service-Manual-Shop-Book-Repair-guide-/201189820505?hash=item2ed7d90859. I just checked; this Form FE030441-01 does include both clutch types). The serial number break at which the two-piece begins is 4U6373 and 5U13237. If you send me your email, I can email you a couple of scans from the manual with instructions.
Most of it you can figure it out if you're handy. Order a new clutch plate from General Gear (contact info in the stickies at the front of the forum). You should replace the other "consumables" while you're in there (clutch brake facings, pilot bearing and the grease nipple that oils it), clean out the chamber, clean up and never-seize all the threads so that it's easy to adjust in future etc. Check the various lever and shaft bushings because now's the time to replace them if they're worn. The vertical clutch release shaft can be built up where it runs through the bushing and turned down to size with a new bushing. That's a common wear point.
Post a picture looking in the clutch housing so we can see what you've got.

(also post the serial number - 4Uxxxxx - from the engine (check that the number is the same on the rear of the transmission case)