While working on the brake cover for my D4N Winch today , I had a couple of bolts twisted off in it that needed to be removed. These bolts were broken off flush with the surface of the housing so using a vice grip was out of the question. I use a 3/32 inch Cronaweld 333 extraction rod to take out broken bolts. This rod is expensive ($40 a pound) but worth it. This rod will create a barrier of flux around the sides of the weld which protects threads in a hole. It works exceptionally well for bolts broken off below the surface of a threaded hole. Picture “1” shows the bolt after I made 2 small circular weld on top of the bolt to hold the nut I am going to use to remove the broken part. You do not have to clean or chip slag. Just make short circular motions, one on top of the other. (touch it and get away). Once you have built it up as high as you want then chip the slag and clean. Normally I would weld a washer to this part of the broken bolt, then a nut to the washer and. Use that to turn the broken part out.  Picture “2” shows the nut setting on top of the small stud made by the weld. Fill the nut up with weld material all the way to the top making short circular motions with the rod. I use one of the auto darkening hoods which allows me to see the weld and watch it cool. Give it 2 or 3 seconds between each weld lot cool a little before adding more material. Picture “3” shows the nut filled with weld material.


Picture “4” the nut is removed and slag cleaned off the stud sticking up from the broken bolt. This is the same nut used to create the stud. If this were down in a treaded hole it would work the same way.

Put the nut back on the stud and weld it to the nut While the bolt is still hot from the weld spray with Kano and use a wrench to remove. Picture "5" shows the broken bolt removed.

Cronaweld 333 welding rods are made by Cronatron Welding Systems at 1-800-526-3899 or <a href="This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it." target="_blank">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. You can also do a Google Search for Cronatron Welding Systems and find their web site.

I am not affiliated with Cronatron Welding, I just like their product. I have taken broken bolts out of holes 2 inches deep using this rod, removed broken taps, and broken drills the same way. Pictures show a drill bit and another bolt removed using the same system.

Thanks for the info. This looks like it would be a good solution.

Nice job. That sure takes a lot of the hassle out of removing broken bolts. I've taken a lot of broken bolts out that way with Eutectic 680. I didn't know that Cronatron made a rod like that. There's quite a few Cronatron products I like, but I haven't seen any of their salesmen for a few years.

I have not used this product, however I have used the same basic procedure with a MIG welder.
Place a washer and nut over broken bolt or item to retrieve.

Weld broken item to inside of nut. I usually use the smallest washer that fits over the bolt hole or item and a nut that is easy to weld to the inside.

Allow to cool slightly and usually turn out item.

Works most of the time.
However nothing is perfect.

This method will not work to protect threads in holes as the mentioned product.

Thanks for the product recommendation. I will add some to my arsenal of tools.

I have used an identical rod called Xtractalloy , Made by Eutetic, I think??
It worked very well.

If possible drill the stud first then run a weld along the side of the drill hole
(size permitting). Have had a lot success with this method.

Nice work. SP 170 wire feed does a great job too. This is just flux core wire. Great on the small stuff. Don

On a related topic, if you have the misfortune to break off an EZ-out in the bolt which you earlier had the misfortune of wringing in two, I was told by a heavy equipment mechanic that you can drill/chip it out with a masonry bit in a hammer drill. I am sad to say that I had the opportunity to try it, but it does actually work. It's still slow, but it's the best I've found.

I have had really good luck using a tig welder and have been told by a real professional welder, after he saw my work, that I should use 420 stainless filler as it is harder than the mild steel (ER70S6) filler I was using. This works really good on small items down to say #6 screws in aluminum hubs especially. I have also used it on 3/4 wheel studs.