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1954 D4 7U - Restarting after 20+ year nap

1954 D4 7U - Restarting after 20+ year nap

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kdreed88
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Hello all,

First of all, I would like to apologize if some of the terminology I use is not correct as I am new when it comes to this, and I am wanting to learn as much as I can to bring the D4 back to life. I will try and provide as much information as I can based on what I know and have found out from various family members. At the moment I am really in a fact finding mission to determine what work can and/or will need to be done to return it to working order. Hopefully my grandma will give us permission to actually take steps to start it back up. I do have the original books for the D4, including parts manuals as well as the operation & maintenance manual that I can reference.

- Configuration -
Hydraulic Blade (possibly even rear hydraulic controls, but not of interest at the moment)
Electric Pony Motor Start

- Short History -
It has been in my family since it was bought and was last used regularly by my grandfather in the early 90's before he passed away. From what I was told, it was very well maintained as he worked with heavy equipment for a career. It has been located in Northern California, through both freezing winters and hot summers. It was primarily used for moving dirt, creating fire breaks around the property, and creating access roads on the property.

- The Last Run -
The last time it ran was in the mid 90's, and we had some difficulty in getting it started. I was only 8 or so at the time and don't know everything they did to make it work aside from the obvious, which was to pull the D4 with a few trucks to get the diesel engine started.

- The Last Attempt -
The last time we attempted to start the D4 didn't go as well. My dad was involved in that process an in talking to him he said that the problem dealt with the pony motor. With the pony motor running, it was able to turn the main engine over with no problems, but as soon as compression was applied, the pony motor would stall out.

- Current Status -
The D4 has been sitting in a covered 3-sided shelter ever since it last ran and (aside from the cobwebs and dust) looks like the day it was parked. The exhaust stack for the main engine doesn't have a rain-catcher on it, but has been covered with a tin can to prevent rain from getting in there. The battery has been removed, so there shouldn't be any corrosion anywhere due to that. It appears that any gas for the pony motor has evaporated, and from what I was told there is old diesel fuel in the tank. I was also told that the carb for the pony was rebuilt in the last 10 years, but was never actually put to use (it too has been covered from the elements). The fuel pressure gauge is discolored (and stuck all the way to the right) so it probably needs to be replaced.

- The Plan -
Drain & Replace any existing fluids - crankcase(s), diesel fuel
Replace the Fuel Pressure gauge
Refill radiator with water (drained to prevent freezing)
Attempt to start pony motor
Attempt to start Main engine.

- The questions -
Any information that might be missing
What should we be looking for as we attempt to bring it back to life.
In response to the issue

- Additional notes -
I have been watching videos on Youtube (and elsewhere as I can find them) on how to start the D4 tractors and have a basic understanding of the process.

I have included a few pictures that I took with my iPhone of some of the key areas for reference.

Thanks in advance for any information!

Dale


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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 3:36 AM
old-iron-habit
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Hello kdreed88, If you go into your profile and fill out your address there is a good chance that there may be a BB member in your area that would be willing to stop by and point things out for you. Many on here can give you step by step directions but unless you have a general understanding of the machine its hard to understand. No one wants damage done by not checking things out throughly before going going at things.
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 3:52 AM
7upuller
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
Hello kdreed88, If you go into your profile and fill out your address there is a good chance that there may be a BB member in your area that would be willing to stop by and point things out for you. Many on here can give you step by step directions but unless you have a general understanding of the machine its hard to understand. No one wants damage done by not checking things out throughly before going going at things.
Hey Dale,

What location in Northern California? glen
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 4:07 AM
Deas Plant.
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Hi, Dale.
Welkum too ther 4um. Sorry to hear that you have 'caught yellow fever'. Death seems to be the only relief from it or cure for it. LOL.

You appear to have the basic requirements pretty well figured out for getting this jigger running again. In Northern CA., remember to add a GOOD quality anti-freeze to the cooling system when re-filling.

As long as this machine has been standing, I think I would be looking to flush the fuel lines right through to the injector pump with fresh fuel. This can be done disconnecting the pipe from the filters, putting a little fresh fuel in the tank and then pressurizing the tank with a few PSI of air to blow it through. Even a piece of rubber sheet with a SMALL hole in it for an air hose will do for a seal over the filler spout and cigarette lighter socket powered car air compressor will give you way more than enough air pressure.

I would also suggest replacing the fuel filters - as well as all the others. It is a good idea to replace the fuel pressure gauge but it is not necessary immediately to get the tractor running again. If it is gonna start, it will start regardless of what the pressure gauge shows.

Pony motors can be a bit temperamental (10% temper and 90% mental for the user.) Good compression and spark are essential, along with fresh fuel. It is possibly worth pulling the spark plugs, putting a squirt of some sort of 'loose juice' in there and pulling it over a few times, firstly to check that it is free and secondly to help ensure that the piston rings are free in their grooves.

Make friends with your local Cat dealer. Don't be bashful about asking questions here. the only 'stupid' question is the one you don't ask and there is a LOT of knowledge and expertise here.

Happy re-starting.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 4:21 AM
kdreed88
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Dale.
Welkum too ther 4um. Sorry to hear that you have 'caught yellow fever'. Death seems to be the only relief from it or cure for it. LOL.

You appear to have the basic requirements pretty well figured out for getting this jigger running again. In Northern CA., remember to add a GOOD quality anti-freeze to the cooling system when re-filling.

As long as this machine has been standing, I think I would be looking to flush the fuel lines right through to the injector pump with fresh fuel. This can be done disconnecting the pipe from the filters, putting a little fresh fuel in the tank and then pressurizing the tank with a few PSI of air to blow it through. Even a piece of rubber sheet with a SMALL hole in it for an air hose will do for a seal over the filler spout and cigarette lighter socket powered car air compressor will give you way more than enough air pressure.

I would also suggest replacing the fuel filters - as well as all the others. It is a good idea to replace the fuel pressure gauge but it is not necessary immediately to get the tractor running again. If it is gonna start, it will start regardless of what the pressure gauge shows.

Pony motors can be a bit temperamental (10% temper and 90% mental for the user.) Good compression and spark are essential, along with fresh fuel. It is possibly worth pulling the spark plugs, putting a squirt of some sort of 'loose juice' in there and pulling it over a few times, firstly to check that it is free and secondly to help ensure that the piston rings are free in their grooves.

Make friends with your local Cat dealer. Don't be bashful about asking questions here. the only 'stupid' question is the one you don't ask and there is a LOT of knowledge and expertise here.

Happy re-starting.

Just my 0.02.
Thanks for the input! The D4 is located in Red Bluff, CA.

old-iron-habit: Thanks for your input. I have a fairly decent understanding of the process for everything, but being new I want to make sure that I know as much as I can before trying to start it.

Deas Plant: Thanks for your input as well! We'll definitely flush out the fuel system all the way to the pumps and start it fresh, including changing out the fuel filters. In terms of the pony stalling out with compression added to the diesel, any ideas how we could over come that? I've seen a few mentions online to easing in the compression, and not adding it all at once. Is this something thats even possible, or is better to do all or nothing? If its better to add the compression all at once, how can we keep the pony from stalling?

Thanks again!
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 5:10 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to kdreed88:
Thanks for the input! The D4 is located in Red Bluff, CA.

old-iron-habit: Thanks for your input. I have a fairly decent understanding of the process for everything, but being new I want to make sure that I know as much as I can before trying to start it.

Deas Plant: Thanks for your input as well! We'll definitely flush out the fuel system all the way to the pumps and start it fresh, including changing out the fuel filters. In terms of the pony stalling out with compression added to the diesel, any ideas how we could over come that? I've seen a few mentions online to easing in the compression, and not adding it all at once. Is this something thats even possible, or is better to do all or nothing? If its better to add the compression all at once, how can we keep the pony from stalling?

Thanks again!
the compression is either on or off---no easing in---sounds like the pony is starving for gas under load---have you tried choking it a little when under load? lots of ponys have to run with a little choke.
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 5:17 AM
8C 361
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Dale.
Welkum too ther 4um. Sorry to hear that you have 'caught yellow fever'. Death seems to be the only relief from it or cure for it. LOL.

You appear to have the basic requirements pretty well figured out for getting this jigger running again. In Northern CA., remember to add a GOOD quality anti-freeze to the cooling system when re-filling.

As long as this machine has been standing, I think I would be looking to flush the fuel lines right through to the injector pump with fresh fuel. This can be done disconnecting the pipe from the filters, putting a little fresh fuel in the tank and then pressurizing the tank with a few PSI of air to blow it through. Even a piece of rubber sheet with a SMALL hole in it for an air hose will do for a seal over the filler spout and cigarette lighter socket powered car air compressor will give you way more than enough air pressure.

I would also suggest replacing the fuel filters - as well as all the others. It is a good idea to replace the fuel pressure gauge but it is not necessary immediately to get the tractor running again. If it is gonna start, it will start regardless of what the pressure gauge shows.

Pony motors can be a bit temperamental (10% temper and 90% mental for the user.) Good compression and spark are essential, along with fresh fuel. It is possibly worth pulling the spark plugs, putting a squirt of some sort of 'loose juice' in there and pulling it over a few times, firstly to check that it is free and secondly to help ensure that the piston rings are free in their grooves.

Make friends with your local Cat dealer. Don't be bashful about asking questions here. the only 'stupid' question is the one you don't ask and there is a LOT of knowledge and expertise here.

Happy re-starting.

Just my 0.02.
I dont want to be disrespectful to Dees, but I have a little different point of view on your situation. Those guys down under have a different way of looking at things and I think he is being drasically complex.

If you could reel in one of the Cat guys on this forum (you already have one circling). Someone with a little experience could probably have that Cat running in a very few hours. It sounds like it has been well cared for.

Most of us would check the oil for water, maybe drain the pony, it only takes a quart. Leave the diesel alone for now, maybe check the sumps for water but don't open it up, it would be hell to prime again. That old diesel that is in it is way better than the stuff today. I am a little suspect of that pretty original fuel line for the pony. I would make sure it is clear and gas runs through it. Dont waste your money on antifreeze just yet. Just use good quality water until you get it running, you will want to flush it anyway.

Just slap some jumpers on it and fire it up.

Don't expect any help from the local Cat dealer. No one there has ever heard of your model Cat, There is no one that knows anything about it. The parts man might be able to order some parts if you bring him the part number out of your parts book. I believe you might have to put a zero in front of the number. You can get most parts a lot cheaper aftermarket.
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 5:17 AM
Dozerman51
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Reply to kdreed88:
Thanks for the input! The D4 is located in Red Bluff, CA.

old-iron-habit: Thanks for your input. I have a fairly decent understanding of the process for everything, but being new I want to make sure that I know as much as I can before trying to start it.

Deas Plant: Thanks for your input as well! We'll definitely flush out the fuel system all the way to the pumps and start it fresh, including changing out the fuel filters. In terms of the pony stalling out with compression added to the diesel, any ideas how we could over come that? I've seen a few mentions online to easing in the compression, and not adding it all at once. Is this something thats even possible, or is better to do all or nothing? If its better to add the compression all at once, how can we keep the pony from stalling?

Thanks again!
Hello Kdreed88,
Too bad you didn't post this last weekend. I was up your way in Cottonwood. A relative has a 51' 7U#15195 dozer. Set up very much like yours- model 44 hydraulics, surge tank, electric start pony, rear piping for a scarper etc. They are probably one of the best engineered D4's Cat ever made in IMHO. Follow the starting procedure as listed in the Operators manual. If you go on You Tube, you will see countless number of people starting up these old Cats in the wrong fashion. Makes me cringe every time. Follow Deas Plants suggestions and you won't go wrong. He knows his stuff. What do you mean by stalling out? Does the pony lose power and die due to the main not turning or does it turn the main over then die out? Pony motors are very finicky and no two run exactly the same. Check mag, carb and timing. Good luck getting it running and sure would be great to post pic's of it. Even better would be a You Tube video of it firing up for the 1st time about 20 years.😖mile:
Joe G.
40' Cat D2/3J#4103
41' Dodge Military WC-12 1/2 ton 4x4 Pick-up
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 5:32 AM
kdreed88
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Reply to Dozerman51:
Hello Kdreed88,
Too bad you didn't post this last weekend. I was up your way in Cottonwood. A relative has a 51' 7U#15195 dozer. Set up very much like yours- model 44 hydraulics, surge tank, electric start pony, rear piping for a scarper etc. They are probably one of the best engineered D4's Cat ever made in IMHO. Follow the starting procedure as listed in the Operators manual. If you go on You Tube, you will see countless number of people starting up these old Cats in the wrong fashion. Makes me cringe every time. Follow Deas Plants suggestions and you won't go wrong. He knows his stuff. What do you mean by stalling out? Does the pony lose power and die due to the main not turning or does it turn the main over then die out? Pony motors are very finicky and no two run exactly the same. Check mag, carb and timing. Good luck getting it running and sure would be great to post pic's of it. Even better would be a You Tube video of it firing up for the 1st time about 20 years.😖mile:
Joe G.
40' Cat D2/3J#4103
41' Dodge Military WC-12 1/2 ton 4x4 Pick-up
Thanks guys!

I personally haven't tried firing it up, but many of my family members have back in the early 90's.

Everyone has their own way of doing things, which may not be wrong, just different so I'm taking things in with an open mind.

In terms of the pony stalling out, it occurred right after the compression was engaged for the diesel. With it being so long ago, i doubt anyone remembers the choke/throttle settings on the pony. When we try it again thought we'll be sure to keep that in mind!

Hopefully I'll have gathered enough information and be able to try it out in the near future!
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 5:43 AM
8C 361
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Reply to kdreed88:
Thanks guys!

I personally haven't tried firing it up, but many of my family members have back in the early 90's.

Everyone has their own way of doing things, which may not be wrong, just different so I'm taking things in with an open mind.

In terms of the pony stalling out, it occurred right after the compression was engaged for the diesel. With it being so long ago, i doubt anyone remembers the choke/throttle settings on the pony. When we try it again thought we'll be sure to keep that in mind!

Hopefully I'll have gathered enough information and be able to try it out in the near future!
Might have to blow in the (pony) tank.
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 5:56 AM
ccjersey
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In addition to possible fuel starvation or carb adjustment problems, a frozen up governor can cause the pony to die when load is applied. To check, push throttle control knob in all the way and manually move governor arm and throttle linkage back and forth. It should readily spring to wide open (away from you as you work pony controls from left side of machine) when you pull governor arm toward left side of machine and then release it. Notice that the throttle control rod has a bracket on it that engages the throttle butterfly crank to governor arm link and pulls the throttle closed when you pull out on the knob. This is usually the best position to start the pony and let it warm up a little before attempting to latch the pinion in.

Usually easier to get it engaged without grinding when pony is turning slowly. To brake pinion before engaging with the rearmost lever, press the front lever hard to the rear before pulling up on the rear lever to shift pinion gear and latch it in. If lever can be raised with little resistance and flops back down, the pinion is probably already latched . Once pinion is latched into flywheel, then push throttle control in to allow the governor to speed pony up some before you engage pinion clutch by moving the lever forward. Governor should respond to the increased load by opening throttle as far as throttle rod is pushed in to allow. With throttle rod pushed all the way in, governor should limit high idle rpm and respond to load changes.

The governor is a simple machine and if it doesn't work freely, the back section is easily removed to allow cleaning and lubrication of the lever pivot and pushrod which runs through the shaft from the pulley end where there are flyweights. The front end is lubricated by removing a cover screw and adding a small amount of oil (maybe 5 ml or 1tsp). Or the tin cover on the pulley can be removed completely and the weights inspected and freed up if necessary.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Feb 23, 2015 6:02 AM
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