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D 318 water pump diagram

D 318 water pump diagram

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22rimfire
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Does anyone have a diagram for the water pump on a D318 engine?
I am having leak problems and I think i am missing a seal.
From the kit to rebuild it. It is leaking from the shaft into the impeller seal.
This engine is in my 1956 D6 9U.
Thanks
1956 D6 9U
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Sun, Feb 8, 2015 4:04 AM
Old Magnet
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There isn't much to it. The bellows seal depends on a good shaft sealing surface and a good seating surface for the carbon ring to impeller. There is no gasket involved.

Later impellers have a ceramic seat bonded as a wear surface.

Check the radiator pressure regulator to see that it is working and limited to a 6psi pressure. If it is not working it can overpower the bellows seal and also contaminate the carbon ring to impeller sealing.
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Sun, Feb 8, 2015 7:07 AM
ccjersey
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I'm pretty sure the bellows seal assembly is pressed into the water pump housing and does not seal or even fit closely around the shaft.

The bellows must be compressed slightly (I would guess about 3/32") by the impeller as it is installed onto the shaft. The impeller seals the shaft by its taper fit and the washer and nut that retains it.

I expect there are some mismatched parts that are not giving the correct compression of the bellows, but if that is not the case, seems like I have had to glue the carbon ring to the bellows to get one to seal. The carbon ring is retained in the brass cup by several tabs which are bent inward to contact the edge of the ring. These can be carefully straightened to allow the bellows to expand and the ring to be removed if it is detached from the rubber.

Any adhesive used should be used sparingly and only applied to clean dry surfaces. I think I used RTV silicon gasket maker on one, though there are probably better adhesives available. The joint is not under much strain while in use..... I think CAT may have supplied the bellows and the ring as separate parts but the parts and service manual are less than clear on this. There is no mention of adhesive use to install the parts, but if it isn't sealing, I would certainly glue a detached carbon ring to the bellows.

Another trick I used on one is to bend the retaining tabs outward slightly more than they were originally to allow the bellows to expand a little more and get the carbon to contact the impeller hub or ceramic seal. This was using an impeller which had to be cleaned up in a lathe to restore the seating surface where the carbon touches.

Good luck!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Feb 9, 2015 10:23 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
I'm pretty sure the bellows seal assembly is pressed into the water pump housing and does not seal or even fit closely around the shaft.

The bellows must be compressed slightly (I would guess about 3/32") by the impeller as it is installed onto the shaft. The impeller seals the shaft by its taper fit and the washer and nut that retains it.

I expect there are some mismatched parts that are not giving the correct compression of the bellows, but if that is not the case, seems like I have had to glue the carbon ring to the bellows to get one to seal. The carbon ring is retained in the brass cup by several tabs which are bent inward to contact the edge of the ring. These can be carefully straightened to allow the bellows to expand and the ring to be removed if it is detached from the rubber.

Any adhesive used should be used sparingly and only applied to clean dry surfaces. I think I used RTV silicon gasket maker on one, though there are probably better adhesives available. The joint is not under much strain while in use..... I think CAT may have supplied the bellows and the ring as separate parts but the parts and service manual are less than clear on this. There is no mention of adhesive use to install the parts, but if it isn't sealing, I would certainly glue a detached carbon ring to the bellows.

Another trick I used on one is to bend the retaining tabs outward slightly more than they were originally to allow the bellows to expand a little more and get the carbon to contact the impeller hub or ceramic seal. This was using an impeller which had to be cleaned up in a lathe to restore the seating surface where the carbon touches.

Good luck!
Sealing points are the impeller shaft fit, housing press fit and the carbon ring to impeller fit. I suspect your impeller sealing flange is worn beyond the range of the bellow seal capability.
One of the later impellers with ceramic face would make a good recovery.
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Mon, Feb 9, 2015 11:30 PM
22rimfire
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Sealing points are the impeller shaft fit, housing press fit and the carbon ring to impeller fit. I suspect your impeller sealing flange is worn beyond the range of the bellow seal capability.
One of the later impellers with ceramic face would make a good recovery.
Thanks for the help.
Today I got a new bellows seal from Cat and it fixed the problem!
1956 D6 9U
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Wed, Feb 11, 2015 9:16 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to 22rimfire:
Thanks for the help.
Today I got a new bellows seal from Cat and it fixed the problem!
Thanks for the feedback. Was the one you got in the original kit defective or did it get buggered up?
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Wed, Feb 11, 2015 10:06 AM
22rimfire
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Thanks for the feedback. Was the one you got in the original kit defective or did it get buggered up?
It appears that the one in the kit from Regal was the old style
And the one I got from Cat was the updated one for the newer
Impeller. They looked just a little different on the sealing area.
Thanks alot glad to get it back up and running
I dont like running a newer hydraulic machine!!
1956 D6 9U
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Wed, Feb 11, 2015 8:39 PM
krose
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Reply to 22rimfire:
It appears that the one in the kit from Regal was the old style
And the one I got from Cat was the updated one for the newer
Impeller. They looked just a little different on the sealing area.
Thanks alot glad to get it back up and running
I dont like running a newer hydraulic machine!!
I am currently building a water pump on a 57 d6 9u the shaft was destroyed and it was parts in a box when I got it !!! I need some help with the diagram and specs , how tight to tighten it, I’m pretty sure I have it right, but would feel better about some advice
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Sun, May 3, 2020 6:57 AM
ccjersey
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The bearings are fitted to the shaft with a spacer between so the pulley hub retaining nut is tightened until it is tight and the lock can be folded up to hold it. The seal carrier/bearing retainer threaded into the front end of the housing behind the pulley hub Can be tightened securely since it holds the outer bearing against the snap ring below it in the housing. The inner bearing on the impeller end of the shaft floats in the housing allowing for shaft/housing thermal growth and contraction. There is a spring steel wire retainer that drops into a hole in the housing and engages a hole to be drilled into the seal carrier threads to hold it from screwing out on its own.

Impeller is put on a taper, so there’s no adjustment there. Again, tighten until tight and the lock can be folded up.

In summary everything on the pump is tightened securely and also locked in place. I usually use an air wrench on the retaining nuts on either end, but am mindful of the bronze impeller retaining nut, I don’t go to town on it!
Attachment
Attachment
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, May 3, 2020 10:39 AM
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