cat d-6 9u cable blade adjustment

Is this for a front or rear CCU?

this is front mounted unit for lifting blade.since i posted this i've looked it over again and i'm thinking i need to adjust lever by seat since blade won't drop
even brake band is loosened.there is a threaded bolt with spring attached to it and i may have tightened that too much ,thus not enough free travel in
handle by seat for it to drop.
if you wouldn't e-mail a phone number. i'm a slow typer and prefer talking on phone.
thanks
larry lynch

[quote="larrylynch"]this is front mounted unit for lifting blade.since i posted this i've looked it over again and i'm thinking i need to adjust lever by seat since blade won't drop
even brake band is loosened.there is a threaded bolt with spring attached to it and i may have tightened that too much ,thus not enough free travel in
handle by seat for it to drop.
if you wouldn't e-mail a phone number. i'm a slow typer and prefer talking on phone.
thanks
larry lynch[/quote] If the brake band is loose, away from drum, there is something else wrong. Have you adjusted the clutch discs to tight(the adjustment in the center of the unit)?

Other things can be wrong....cable tangled on drum....cable wedged behind a sheave....cold oil on clutch disc and they're sticking together.

Here are the adjustment instructions.....

While fairly easy to adjust do not under any circumstance try to adjust it with the engine running. It is not worth you arm or perhaps your life. There have been many people maimed by trying.

When the blade is up and you can't let it down, it might be a clutch disk has broken up and piled up in the clutch pack. If so, you might be able to roll the diesel over backward and let it down. Otherwise, you get up on the hood and reach over with a cutting torch and cut the cable. Always shut down the engine and rest the blade on the ground before you adjust or repair anything there. With that much power, or that much weight hanging on the cable, a lot can happen faster than you can see it coming, and you might not live to tell us about it!

I just got to thinking. Some times that causes a lot of trouble, so be forewarned!

I adjust my blade control by setting the position of the control lever by running the spindle nut tighter or looser so you get about 6-8 inches between neutral and lift. Just my prefered amount of lever travel. it's not chiseled into stone.

Then I adjust the brake operating rod so I have about the same amount of control travel between neutral and release (down) in the other direction.

Then I set the tension on that long spring so that when it is warmed up and working the spring will set the brake on return to neutral from down without too much of a jerk. That's what that spring does--sets the brake, holds the blade up.

This works for me on my D7 3T with 12foot angle dozer--a heavy chunk of iron.

I'm thinking this might be an easier sequence to understand than the book. Maybe...

Good luck, be careful!

Hi, LarryLynch.
Follow the instructions posted by Old Magnet. THEY are the bible, nothing else matters.

To be able to adjust the unit properly, you need to have enough tension on the brake spring that it will hold the blade up. That said, the blade does NOT need to be 8 feet in the air to check this. It only needs to be clear of the ground. Once you have this adjusted so that it will hold, you then need to adjust the neutral position for the clutch lever roller on the actuating arm, with the roller pivot shaft in line with the adjusting mark on the arm, usually a ^ in the arm just below the running face for the roller. (Note that in most rear DD PCUs, this mark is usually a small hole in the arm.)

The clutch is the LAST thing to be adjusted 'cos the adjustment for that relies on the roller being adjusted correctly to that neutral position. About 4 - 5 inches of movement from the neutral position to clutch engaged on the control handle is pretty much the norm.

If you do have to cut that cable to get the blade weight off, Block the blade UP FIRST. Then, as Jack said, do it from up on the hood and cut immediately below the anchor wedge. Then get your 'fundamental orifice' WAY outa there as soon as you see the cable starting to give. There is no telling where that cable will go or what it will do once it is cut and running back through the sheaves. THEN, you can start the dozer and back it way from the blocks to get the blade down.

Perhaps an even better way to do the cutting may be to stand on the front of a track to do it, preferably the side of the sheaves that the cable is anchored to as that fall of cable will most likely pull straight to the next sheave,which MAY give you an extra 1/2 second to get out of the way.

Just my 0.02.

Here are the adjustment instructions.....