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RD4 main engine starting problem

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17 years 1 week ago #11008 by R4pat
no, we have tried starting it after working it hard and getting warm, still it does't want to take off

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17 years 1 week ago #11012 by ccjersey
SJ,
I must have one with the flywheel on wrong. I saw in the manual the procedure to check the mark/pointer, so maybe one day I can do that and set the lifters too.

I am confused about the lifter just beginning to come up at TDC. Would seem that there would be little to no advance?, the pump doesn't have any centrifugal advance mechanism to change as rpm goes up, so it must be just what is set by setting the lifters. Maybe that it's just a low rpm, long stroke engine and possibly the PC chamber design has something to do with it not needing much advance.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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17 years 1 week ago #11013 by KidNV
CCJ, you fergot rule #1,, SJ is always right...lol . The injection lifter just coming up when yur on #1 is right, inj.crank throw is shorter(faster) compared to engine crank, and doesnt have far to move to finish the injection from the 'starting to lift' point. There are quite a few that had the flywheel put on 1 hole off, so dont be surprised, mine was.. SJ got me thru it just fine, I just had to ask about 3x, and figure out what he was telling me, and it worked fine. I pulled the #1 injector, stuck a brazing rod down the hole, turned the fan to #1, marked the rod, then started turning some more, found the rod went UP another 1.5" or so. Found true top of #1 and inj.pump #1 coming up, and made my own marks on the front pulley as a temp fix. Then later, when I had a chance, I fixed the flywheel thing..

R4Pat, I'd just bet, you adjusted the lifters the last time, while the compression lever was set to start. Wont tell you how I know.. But, compr2start, turn to flywheel mark 1-4, and look at the front inj.lifter, it should just be up. Since you have brothers, have one watch whilst you're turning, and when you get close to the mark, either 1 or 4 will start lifting. That will tell you which is which. Go around until its #1 for sure, then set compr to RUN, set valve lifters for #1, compr2start, turn to next, compr2RUN,adjust,etc...

p.s. it helps alot if during the process, you a)dont answer the cell phone, turn it off b)dont let your helpers talk other than 'ok' c)dont stop in the middle to...you get the picture.. Cause you WILL fergit where you were at least twice,, again, dont ask.. And, if you or your helper goes past the mark a little, back up at least 2" on the flywheel, then go up to the mark, or it wont come out right. If the engine is cold, set the valve lifters to .011 or .012, if its hot(engine) then set to .010, and, use a go/no go type gauge if you can find one,, lots easier to tell.

SJ, again,, write that book! We could all sure use it. I think if you looked back at those old cat manuals, you'd be severely laughin at what all they fergot to tell us..


Oh ya, the only way the injection timing will get off, is if some durn dummy takes the front cover off, and doesnt pay 'tention to the timing marks close enough when putting it back.. again, we wont go there, just trust me.

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17 years 1 week ago #11020 by ccjersey
YOU'RE RIGHT! SJ, OM, EDB etc are the source of all knowledge.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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17 years 1 week ago #11025 by Old Magnet
R4pat,
Check the part number on your lifter assemblies.
I show #2A5578 lifter assembly as being the same from 7J1 to 7U36127.
Don't have the earlier parts book to check.
If that's the case, plenty of D4's and D6's out there to acquire a good set of used lifters.

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17 years 1 week ago #11040 by R4pat
Well tonight, I checked all the exhaust and intake valve, they were within tolerances, ran, and narrowed it down too, that 1 and 4 are not firing right, the engine kinda blue white smokes, but when i crack the inj lines to 1 and 4 both, it quits, and when i crack 2 and 3 both, the engine will almost die, so i no those two are pretty good, i check the pumps the way Jim Zimmerman showed me, and they show to be good, so hopefully it is the lifter adjustment,

Thanks for everybodies willingness and help, I'll keep yall posted, it may be a while, right now i am painting our R4, i have it all stripped down, tracks and undercarriage all taken off, my brother is working on our D4, he getting close to trying to start it, the engine was locked up, and i am working on a 15 for somebody else, I really enjoy our caterpillars and they keep me out of trouble, well for the exception of pulling out moms shrubs with them!

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17 years 1 week ago #11062 by Kid at Heart
I'm going to say something that I really shouldn't. I used to have a Ford 5000 diesel tractor. Valves on it were seriously loose. Set them to specs and the thing was a b**** to start after that. Put the lifters back to seriously loose and it would start right up. And I mean .100 loose!!! Don't ask me why it helped. Just for something to do, you might try backing off the valves a 1/2 turn loose. That would be enough to see a difference and whether to proceed that direction.

David

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