Flywheel Clutch

The primary advantage of the oil clutch is lubrication and cooling.
Your oil is contaminated, usually by water/condensation. Oil needs to be changed with current recommendation being 30wt Transmission/Drive Train oil. 17 quarts required.

Oil pump suction strainer cleaning is a routine service requirement. Located at the bottom back side of the clutch housing (key shaped cover)

Here are the instructions for adjusting the main clutch and the flywheel clutch brake. Brake band/lining should be inspected first as they are often found to be worn out.

[quote="Old Magnet"]The primary advantage of the oil clutch is lubrication and cooling.
Your oil is contaminated, usually by water/condensation. Oil needs to be changed with current recommendation being 30wt Transmission/Drive Train oil. 17 quarts required.

Oil pump suction strainer cleaning is a routine service requirement. Located at the bottom back side of the clutch housing (key shaped cover)

Here are the instructions for adjusting the main clutch and the flywheel clutch brake. Brake band/lining should be inspected first as they are often found to be worn out.[/quote]

Thanks, Old Magnet. Just what I was looking for.

Is the clutch flywheel brake separate from the steering clutch brake?

Completely separate mounted on the combination drum/coupling.

The large cover encompassing everything that is shown in the diagram I assume has to come off? And the brake is inside?

The break is on the outside of clutch housing the break has a small lining could just need adjustment. .razz

O.K., I see it now. It's called "band assembly". Is it difficult to replace if that's necessary?

Not a big job, lining/facing is available aftermarket for $10.15.
Requires riveting
Local commercial clutch/brake shop could probably line the band for you.

Johnson bar is a name for the reverser lever. I think you are describing the motion of the main clutch lever which should stop the transmission input shaft when it is pushed firmly forward. This also releases the transmission shifter lock mechanism. The flywheel will not stop while the engine is running, and the oil between the clutch disks and the spinning pressure plate/flywheel makes the clutch disks and transmission input shaft tend to turn even when the clutch is disengaged.

Cleaning up the clutch and filling with new oil will probably help lessen the tendency for the clutch to drag, but not eliminate it entirely. The running tractor can move suddenly any time the transmission is in a gear even with the clutch disengaged, so applying and locking the brake is a good idea unless you have the dozer on the ground etc. I had a D6 that would surge forward a few inches to a foot when the main engine started unless it was prevented by by some sort of brake or resistance. Quite exciting when you're sitting on the track working the pony motor controls!

This is one reason for the recommendation to place trans shifter in neutral and engage the main clutch whenever you leave the seat of the tractor with the engine still running. Just too easy to bump the clutch lever and away she goes! Or it's remotely possible that the clutch pilot bearing or other clutch component could seize and make the tractor move.