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D4 6U Steering Clutch Problem

D4 6U Steering Clutch Problem

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Tracks12
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Hello All,

This forum is a great place for information....very helpful. I appreciate everyone's previous post on the site and read a lot about steering clutches. I have also used it several times to get info on my crawler. I recently purchased a D4 6U (S/N# 3131 circa 1949 ish). Unfortunately, I have run into a steering problem. From previous posts, I have learned that the typical issues could be a worn clutch, an out of adjustment clutch arm, or oil on the clutch.

The symptoms are when pulling the rhs clutch completely in the tractor stops and a growling can be heard. Also the tractor drifts left when pulling an offset disk. When pulling the lhs clutch and depressing the brake fully it will turn left.

I reviewed the owners operating manual and learned how to adjust the clutch. I did so at the first occurrence of the symptoms. Both clutch arms need to be loosened to the point when the levers were pulled back by 3 inches they tightened up. After doing so, the tractor performed well. I was pretty excited. After about 3 hours of operation the problem returned. I opened the top inspection plate and the jam nut was still in place and the play in the arm was still observed until 3 inches was achieved. The threaded portion of the adjusting nut still has an inch of room left. Not sure if adjusting it more would work.

The back plates were removed and there is a little oil at the bottom of the casing but no build up. There is a cotter pin in the drain plug on the lhs plug for the clutch compartment. And I notice the rhs plug is wet too with a few drops of oil below it. Hence there is no build up of oil. So i am ruling out a oil on the clutch.

Note: I do notice oil leaking out of the left lhs final drive sproket. It appears to be red tranny fluid type that I see is in the main transmission box. I put 80/90 wt gear oil (brownish color) in the final drive compartments so it does not seem to be coming from the final drive. The previous owner said he never saw this before but as soon as I got it home I notice a large spot on my trailer. So I am concerned but not freaking out yet. Been keeping an eye on all levels every ten hours. I read that wire can hurt the seals if wrapped around the drive. I did find a wire rapped around the hub and removed it. So I am guessing that is the leak issue. Not sure if I should be more concerned about it.

Upon further investigation, I operated the lhs and rhs levers and saw that the clutches do move out when disengaged. Interestingly, lhs clutch plate is further in than the rhs. Lhs seems to be in about 1/2 inch while the rhs seems to be in about 1/4 inch maybe a little less. I used the tip of my finger so this measurement is not all that accurate.

I am guessing that this is telling me the lhs clutch is worn to the point it no longer is grabbing completely. I am also assuming that there is no other adjustment that can be made.

So here is a list of questions if any one has some advice.

1. Can the clutches be adjusted more? Am I missing something?
2. Do i need to replace the lhs clutch?
3. Would it be advisable to purchase a service manual if I do so? I see reprints on ebay.
4. If I go in to replace, should I do the deep dive on the final drive seals?
5. Does anyone know a good cat mechanic in Northern Ca. near Napa?

Thanks for taking the time to read this. I know it is long. I hope it is not too confusing. I have always liked old Cats... so for my small farm I thought it would cool to save one. I hope I can.
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 2:45 AM
dpendzic
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You should obtain a service manual---i would drain the left side final drive and look for metal particles--the growling sound is indication of something not right!
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 4:08 AM
willwingo
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I think it is inappropriate to be "bashing" the products of a long time supporter of ACMOC.

Jensales manuals are exactly as advertised and do a good job.

He has been an paying advertiser in our magazine, such as it is, for nearly as long as it has been published.
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 7:11 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to willwingo:
I think it is inappropriate to be "bashing" the products of a long time supporter of ACMOC.

Jensales manuals are exactly as advertised and do a good job.

He has been an paying advertiser in our magazine, such as it is, for nearly as long as it has been published.
About that growling......pull both steering clutch levers back at the same time. If you feel (or see) movement from one lever to the other you have problems with the bevel gear bearings.
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 8:56 AM
Tracks12
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Reply to Old Magnet:
About that growling......pull both steering clutch levers back at the same time. If you feel (or see) movement from one lever to the other you have problems with the bevel gear bearings.
Thanks guys for your time. I had already purchased the operator manual and the parts manual and they have worked out great. Phildirt thanks for your comment... i think i plan on ordering the Jensales book and judge for myself. Any supporter of this group seems to be right on from my experience. I appreciate all input.

Garlic Pete, your detailed message was very helpful and detailed. Wow Thanks! I am going to try adjusting the lhs clutch some more based upon your comments. I appreciate your opinions as well.

My maintenance manual states, "Free movement should be measured between the forward position of the control lever and the position of the control lever when the steering clutch first starts to disengage." In the steps to adjust it states, "The clutch adjustment is correct if the looseness in the trunnion linkage is completely removed when the control lever reaches a point of 3 inches..."

So when i do the adjustment this time should I pull the clutch handle down three inches make the trunnion linkage loose and then back in to where it begins to tighten? Gonna try that...thoughts?

Unfortunately, when I started her to put her in the barn the direct start is now grinding... ugh. Pulled the starter and now looking for rebuild kits. The fly wheel seems a little chewed up. Not sure if I need clean that up or not. It looks like there has been things happening in there before. I am guessing the spring in the starter motor is weak causing it to not engage completely. If anyone knows of a rebuild kit for a starter that would be awesome to know. The only part number I see on the starter is 1912102. When I googled that number, I could only find a part stating it was a casing. The closest part from my book shows a starter group of 9F7908 and motor 6F8024. The motor doesn't look exactly like the the book. I will be calling around in the morning. Not sure if maybe this starter was added after the fact... more to follow on that effort.

Dpendzic, I am gonna drain the final drive oil and look for metal as well. The groaning went away when I adjusted the clutch and came back only when the symptoms reappeared. So gonna check that out the oil as well.

Again thanks for the input. More to follow. Awesome community... glad to be a part of it.
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 9:09 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Tracks12:
Thanks guys for your time. I had already purchased the operator manual and the parts manual and they have worked out great. Phildirt thanks for your comment... i think i plan on ordering the Jensales book and judge for myself. Any supporter of this group seems to be right on from my experience. I appreciate all input.

Garlic Pete, your detailed message was very helpful and detailed. Wow Thanks! I am going to try adjusting the lhs clutch some more based upon your comments. I appreciate your opinions as well.

My maintenance manual states, "Free movement should be measured between the forward position of the control lever and the position of the control lever when the steering clutch first starts to disengage." In the steps to adjust it states, "The clutch adjustment is correct if the looseness in the trunnion linkage is completely removed when the control lever reaches a point of 3 inches..."

So when i do the adjustment this time should I pull the clutch handle down three inches make the trunnion linkage loose and then back in to where it begins to tighten? Gonna try that...thoughts?

Unfortunately, when I started her to put her in the barn the direct start is now grinding... ugh. Pulled the starter and now looking for rebuild kits. The fly wheel seems a little chewed up. Not sure if I need clean that up or not. It looks like there has been things happening in there before. I am guessing the spring in the starter motor is weak causing it to not engage completely. If anyone knows of a rebuild kit for a starter that would be awesome to know. The only part number I see on the starter is 1912102. When I googled that number, I could only find a part stating it was a casing. The closest part from my book shows a starter group of 9F7908 and motor 6F8024. The motor doesn't look exactly like the the book. I will be calling around in the morning. Not sure if maybe this starter was added after the fact... more to follow on that effort.

Dpendzic, I am gonna drain the final drive oil and look for metal as well. The groaning went away when I adjusted the clutch and came back only when the symptoms reappeared. So gonna check that out the oil as well.

Again thanks for the input. More to follow. Awesome community... glad to be a part of it.
Does the starter have the solenoid directly mounted to the motor or is it remote mounted?
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 9:54 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Does the starter have the solenoid directly mounted to the motor or is it remote mounted?
when I adjusted my clutches I took the manual to mean 3 inches from the free forward position of levers--even though you can push the levers forward of the free position.
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 10:27 AM
ccjersey
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If you have free travel in the steering clutch lever (at all), it should not slip. Sounds like the left clutch is worn out, but could have something else wrong on that side. Things like stripped gears etc usually result in more dramatic noises than just a groaning.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Oct 24, 2013 7:49 PM
Tracks12
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Does the starter have the solenoid directly mounted to the motor or is it remote mounted?


The solenoid is mounted remotely. I took some pictures of the starter.

[attachment=20214]photo 1.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20215]photo 2.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20216]photo 3.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20217]photo 4.JPG[/attachment]

I looked up the part number for the drive assembly 9b8901. Called the Cat dealer and they said that part was replaced with 7n6068. He quoted me a price of $120. Online I have found the same part number that says it replaces 9b8901 for $28 to $35. Something does not seem right. I looked at the part and seems to be a different gear. Here is an amazon link that has it. http://www.amazon.com/SCREW-7N-6068-9B-8857-9B-8901-6140-121C/dp/B0081SA6NO

So still digging before I plunk down any money to be sure.

I did notice some play in the gear as it travels through the assembly. I am guess that might contribute to the misalignment as it tries to engage the fly wheel.

Thanks!
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Fri, Oct 25, 2013 1:11 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Tracks12:


The solenoid is mounted remotely. I took some pictures of the starter.

[attachment=20214]photo 1.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20215]photo 2.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20216]photo 3.JPG[/attachment][attachment=20217]photo 4.JPG[/attachment]

I looked up the part number for the drive assembly 9b8901. Called the Cat dealer and they said that part was replaced with 7n6068. He quoted me a price of $120. Online I have found the same part number that says it replaces 9b8901 for $28 to $35. Something does not seem right. I looked at the part and seems to be a different gear. Here is an amazon link that has it. http://www.amazon.com/SCREW-7N-6068-9B-8857-9B-8901-6140-121C/dp/B0081SA6NO

So still digging before I plunk down any money to be sure.

I did notice some play in the gear as it travels through the assembly. I am guess that might contribute to the misalignment as it tries to engage the fly wheel.

Thanks!
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Your looking at the wrong starter. The 9B8901 is for the pony motor electric starter. The main engine starter is a 24v inertia drive type based on an early type Delco Remy 40MT motor. Almost impossible to find the starter drive and likly to be very pricey if you can find one. Brushes and bearings are still available. There are also two different drives used, a 7F4563 and a 4M1417 depending on what starter number you have.
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Fri, Oct 25, 2013 5:49 AM
Tracks12
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Your looking at the wrong starter. The 9B8901 is for the pony motor electric starter. The main engine starter is a 24v inertia drive type based on an early type Delco Remy 40MT motor. Almost impossible to find the starter drive and likly to be very pricey if you can find one. Brushes and bearings are still available. There are also two different drives used, a 7F4563 and a 4M1417 depending on what starter number you have.


Thanks Old Magnet! You are correct I was looking under the attachment section of the parts book. I could not find any other starter in the book other than the ones that are in this section. I am meeting a starter rebuild mechanic in an hour. He thinks he may be able to rebuild it for me. I found an old drive in the bottom of the tool box, so this doesn't appear to be a first time occurrence. I am gonna see what the mechanic can find out. Any ideas on a work around would be helpful.
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Fri, Oct 25, 2013 6:42 AM
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