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3 cylinder electric start conversion
3 cylinder electric start conversion
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17 years 3 months ago #8779
by Old Magnet
Nothing fancy about removal.......shows eight bolts on the pony and five on the clutch housing that attach the units to the main engine. Remove the whole works in one shot. The drive end just pokes in the hole in the main bellhousing.
You have to pull the unit away from the main as you come forward so the flywheel will clear the casting web on the side of the main engine block.
With the pony assy. out you are left with a large hole and flat flange that will have to be drilled and tapped to receive the adapter. Your on your own from here as I have not done one of these conversions nor have I seen the hidden details of the installation, just the final product.
As I mentioned earlier the normal SAE 40MT/42MT starter nose is set up for a clearance of 2 inches from the starter mounting flange to the face of the flywheel. There are longer drive end housings but they require longer armature shafts and special starter pinions but these pinions are not available with the helical drive.
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17 years 3 months ago #8796
by SpragueM
I am gone most of today. Will post photo's when I return. I do know transmission is part of pony motor assy. I would use the starter bendix to engage the fly wheel rather than attempt to hook through pony trans.
Matt
RD4,RD6 ,D73T, #11 Grader, 977F
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17 years 3 months ago #8800
by Old Magnet
On the transmission........I may be losing it:rolleyes:
but I have searched the 2H1-2H3247 and 2H3248-2H8966 Parts Books and find no transmission. Just direct coupling from the clutch to the pinion.
Also in the 1941 Diesel Engine Servicemens Reference book on page 51 is an illustration of this direct coupled arrangement:confused:
Also the statement "A two-speed transmission is used between the clutch and pinion on six-cylinder 5-1/4 and 5-3/4 bore engines and is available as an attachment for four cylinder 5-3/4 bore engines"
Looks to me like a transmission wasn't supplied on the 2H models with the D6600.
Also don't see a transmission housing or lever in the above picture provided.
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17 years 3 months ago #8811
by SpragueM
Here a few pictures. The only concern would be if the starter will get close enough to the flywheel. Would depend on diameter of pinion. Housing would also need to be tapped but can easily build a jig. Block off plates for water lines and and engine block would be easy also.
Matt
RD4,RD6 ,D73T, #11 Grader, 977F
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17 years 3 months ago #8812
by SpragueM
Quick question, if the flywheel ring gear is straight would the pinion gear be straight cut? "update" Just looked and the ring gear is a helical cut.
Matt
RD4,RD6 ,D73T, #11 Grader, 977F
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17 years 3 months ago #8821
by Dozerman51
From the picture shown, it appears to me that this is a direct start set up with NO provisions for any gen. or alternator set up so as to charge the battery. Use the battery long enough, with no charging, end result DEAD Battery. I consider this a great direct start enginering job, but where is the companion generating system engineering job.
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17 years 3 months ago #8843
by beaver-flat
Well Matt,
Are you going to tackle this so I can copy all of your engineering??
Dozerman, they do have provisions for a generator.
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17 years 3 months ago #8852
by SpragueM
Mike,
Got a starter on order, need to find a helical bendix. With the grader engine on the shop floor should make mocking it up fairly straight forward. Plus it's getting harder to find "volunteers" to pull start the RD6. With fall plowing coming up I need a more reliable method to get the old girl going.
I will make up a couple of adapter kit's up once I've got it going. Should be within a few weeks. Should I record it in photo's O.M. ?
Matt
RD4,RD6 ,D73T, #11 Grader, 977F
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17 years 3 months ago #8858
by Old Magnet
Hi SpragueM,
By all means, please record the progress and steps.
Plenty of room for starter drive and will probably be a very similar installation to the D7's and D8's.
Try here for the starter drive 11 tooth or 12
stores.ebay.com/Triodiode-DC-Electric-And-Tractor
Be sure and get the RH helix, they also make a LH.........somehow I screwed up and got the wrong one myself here recently but return exchange is no problem.
Not sure which drive end housing would be best as there are several choices of throat indexing. Try what comes with it and go from there.
Also along with the 2 in. flange to flywheel face depth is a flywheel engagement depth of 7/8 in. Makes it a little tight as I believe the ring gear depth is 15/16 in. At least it is on the pancake pony models.
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3 cylinder electric start conversion
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