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Manual track adjustment, no can budge

Manual track adjustment, no can budge

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DPete
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I see why they invented hydraulic track tensioners. Cat D4 40a I have the idler yoke pinch bolts loose, the threads on the shaft look pretty good, I heated the collar the shaft threads into but hate to get it to hot because the recoil spring is right there. Open to suggestions
1962 D4C
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Sat, Aug 3, 2013 6:36 AM
STEPHEN
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After you get it apart, use anti-seize liberally when reassembling.
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Sat, Aug 3, 2013 7:21 AM
ccjersey
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Get it HOT, the spring is not going to be hurt by heat on the part that bolts to the plate that retains the spring. Also get about a 4' cheater pipe and put on your wrench! When it's hot, try to pump some grease into the fitting on the "nut". Seems like usually the old dry grease is part of the problem, but could be your pinch bolts. Have you smacked that idler yoke with a sledge to shake it loose. Probably won't hurt to heat that too.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Aug 3, 2013 7:33 AM
DPete
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Reply to ccjersey:
Get it HOT, the spring is not going to be hurt by heat on the part that bolts to the plate that retains the spring. Also get about a 4' cheater pipe and put on your wrench! When it's hot, try to pump some grease into the fitting on the "nut". Seems like usually the old dry grease is part of the problem, but could be your pinch bolts. Have you smacked that idler yoke with a sledge to shake it loose. Probably won't hurt to heat that too.
I'll give it another try tomorrow, sprayed both good with PB blaster
1962 D4C
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Sat, Aug 3, 2013 9:07 AM
d4c24a
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Reply to DPete:
I'll give it another try tomorrow, sprayed both good with PB blaster
Mine were so rusted they were past saving ,i had even removed them and put them in a home made furnace until red ,but still no good
in the end i slit one down the length of the adjuster with a petrol cutoff saw , banged some wedges in and managed to get the threaded part out
i then welded the slit back up had the rod turned down and a new thread cut on it ,with a matching boss made up to weld on the front of the adjuster

it has held up with no problems at all 👍
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Sat, Aug 3, 2013 11:49 PM
DPete
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Reply to d4c24a:
Mine were so rusted they were past saving ,i had even removed them and put them in a home made furnace until red ,but still no good
in the end i slit one down the length of the adjuster with a petrol cutoff saw , banged some wedges in and managed to get the threaded part out
i then welded the slit back up had the rod turned down and a new thread cut on it ,with a matching boss made up to weld on the front of the adjuster

it has held up with no problems at all 👍
Took 1/2 of the yoke off, heated the end of the pilot many times, lube thru zerk fitting with PB Blaster in a grease gun & spray what I can see, still a PIA w/ 6' pipe. Anybody know how far the threads go in the pilot? I can move it but not a complete round.
1962 D4C
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Sun, Aug 4, 2013 8:57 AM
DPete
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Reply to DPete:
Took 1/2 of the yoke off, heated the end of the pilot many times, lube thru zerk fitting with PB Blaster in a grease gun & spray what I can see, still a PIA w/ 6' pipe. Anybody know how far the threads go in the pilot? I can move it but not a complete round.
Finally got them on the run, tight sum beeches! Done on the left and making good progress on the right.

[img]http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad166/MDPete/D4trackadj003_zps90b773f2.jpg[/img]
1962 D4C
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Thu, Aug 8, 2013 6:18 AM
edb
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Reply to DPete:
Finally got them on the run, tight sum beeches! Done on the left and making good progress on the right.

[img]http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad166/MDPete/D4trackadj003_zps90b773f2.jpg[/img]
Hi Pete,
when I was at Mike Meyer's a few months back we used something like you have in the back ground of your pic above to lean on or lift it as needed on his Ebay chunky spanner and pipe .
Saved a lot of sweat.
I should also say that Mike had adjusted his tracks previously and the nuts were just tight to keep turning.
I do not recommend using the lifter/leaner until the nuts have been freed by hand first--things and people can get broken if you are not extremely carefull and everyone is well out of the way of any failing pieces of iron.
Be safe at all times.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Thu, Aug 8, 2013 6:35 AM
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