D7C 17A oil leak.

The torque procedure depends on whether you have the thick hardened washers and hardened nuts.
with older style nuts and washers.............
first step 5/8 nuts starting with the center one in the middle of the head 60 foot pounds
then tighten the ones to the left and right of it
next move to one of the outer row of 5/8 nuts where two are side by side and tighten both of a pair
then the single nut on the opposite side of the same cylinder
then the single nut on the other cylinder
then the pair on the opposite side.

7/8 nuts first step 150
start with the first two in the middle of the head and then do the outer 4 in a criss - cross pattern

repeat 5/8 at 90
repeat 7/8 at 200

If hardened nuts
second time
5/8@120
7/8@300

I would certainly try a retorque before removing the head. I expect your leaks are around the pushrod/lifter openings or the port that brings pressurized oil through the deck into the head for the rocker arms.

I cannot tell you where to find the timing marks on the flywheel/clutch housing, but normally there is a small cover that you remove and you can see the pointer and flywheel. There will be 2 TDC marks, one with 1-4 and the other with 2-3 cylinder pairs. When each mark is lined up with the pointer, the valves on one of the cylinder pair will be closed and can be adjusted to 0.016" hot. So retorque the head when the engine is cold, replace the valve cover and run it up to operating temperature and then adjust all the valves.

firing order is 1-3-4-2, so adjust a set of valves, turn the engine 1/2 turn and adjust the next pair, turn 1/2 turn..................

If you have the head off, you can put the engine on TDC and make a mark on the front crankshaft pulley for TDC and use that to adjust the valves. Plenty accurate enough for that.

Remember, if you use the decompression to make the engine easier to turn by hand, flip it back to run before adjusting the valves each time!

Timing pointer is under the small cover on the top of the flywheel housing.
Be shure to use a sealer when replacing the head/gasket.
I'd recommend the Permatex 300 version.

Thanks for the replies so far!

From my files....

[ If you have a oil leak replace the rocker box gaskets. There are no oil passages in the head gasket.
Good luck
Bob

[ If you have a oil leak replace the rocker box gaskets. There are no oil passages in the head gasket.
Good luck
Bob

I would susject that after you get it back running ,bring the engine up to operating temperature at half to 3/4 high idle for 1/2 hour ,and retorque the heads . You will probably get a 1/3 to 1/2 turn on each nut
Also while torquing the heads cold ,go over the sequence of torque at least 3 times .Same hot .The down side is you will have to remove the rocker arm assembly to do this ,and readjust the valve clearance .
One other thing that may be worth checking is the crankcase breather to be sure its not clogged .Wash it out in parts wash ,and blow it out

I am certainly, I will try the blocked breather idea, (I think I will do cartwheels if that works!).
I also studied the parts book a little more and discovered that there are two head gaskets per head, it seems that one does the compression side of the deal and the other seals around the pushrod area. Also I "discovered the seals and ferrules that have been mentioned.
Although it probably doesn't seem it at this point, I am actually not too bad on a set of spanners, but most of my work has been on newer machinery and they do things somewhat different.
On the plus side, I have sourced a manual, out of France of all places, so that should be here in the next couple of weeks😊
I really hope I don't need to pull the heads, but I have a strange feeling I will be. My luck is never quite that good!
Once more, thanks to all who have replied thus far, I do appreciate it.

I am certainly, I will try the blocked breather idea, (I think I will do cartwheels if that works!).
I also studied the parts book a little more and discovered that there are two head gaskets per head, it seems that one does the compression side of the deal and the other seals around the pushrod area. Also I "discovered the seals and ferrules that have been mentioned.
Although it probably doesn't seem it at this point, I am actually not too bad on a set of spanners, but most of my work has been on newer machinery and they do things somewhat different.
On the plus side, I have sourced a manual, out of France of all places, so that should be here in the next couple of weeks😊
I really hope I don't need to pull the heads, but I have a strange feeling I will be. My luck is never quite that good!
Once more, thanks to all who have replied thus far, I do appreciate it.